My oil change suggestion.

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trolls56

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Ordered my Raptor SCREW on FEB 7 (no VIN or Build date yet), do you (or anyone) know if scheduled oil changes are included? An SUV I once bought for the X included paid (periodic) oil changes; was just hopin it was the case with Raptors.

Thats all up to your dealership.
 

Madcowranch

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Ordered my Raptor SCREW on FEB 7 (no VIN or Build date yet), do you (or anyone) know if scheduled oil changes are included? An SUV I once bought for the X included paid (periodic) oil changes; was just hopin it was the case with Raptors.



I got 3 freebie oil changes thrown in.
 

HARLEY6LF250SDU

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Ordered my Raptor SCREW on FEB 7 (no VIN or Build date yet), do you (or anyone) know if scheduled oil changes are included? An SUV I once bought for the X included paid (periodic) oil changes; was just hopin it was the case with Raptors.

You can purchase a Premium Maintence Plan for about $1170.00

Plan:
Premium Maint Full Synthetic - 5K Interval (= 9 total services)

1st Day Rental
Standard Ded 0

Signature Date:

Contract Months: 36
Contract Distance: 45000


randy
 

ifixcopcars

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As far as Royal Purple synthetic oil, save your money and use the Motorcraft blend. Ford uses it in most of their products and does more testing than all the independent oil companies combined. You know why the big name racers use and promote the specialty oils, because those oil companies give it to them. If you really want to spend more on specialty oils, use Mobil1 or Amsoil, both were around long before Royal Purples' engineers were even born. Full synthetic oil is great for constant high temp, high rpm engines, but a 6.2 isn't either one. Synthetic oil, whether it is a blend or not, is still crude oil, just refined differently, there is nothing actually "synthetic" about it.
 

Ruger

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I changed my oil to Mobile 1 5W-20 full synthetic and a Mobile 1 filter (PN M1-210) at 1,000 miles. Removal of the skid plate made it easy. I fashioned an oil drain aide out of a 1/2 gallon plastic milk jug that provided absolute control over where the oil went - useful for draining the crankcase as well as removal of the old filter. I highly recommend this old trick. No drips.

If you want to evaluate oil filters, check the relative weights of different filters for the same application with one filter in one hand and the other in the other hand. You will discover what I did - Mobil 1 filters are a hoss and most of the rest are lightweights. If you save the old fiter you can take it apart and compare the internals with a Mobile 1 filter when you're done with it. You will be convinced.
 

dfelicia

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Just did the first change on my '13. Easiest. Oil. Change. Ever. Ford thought things through well...

FWIW I opted to remove the whole skid plate b/c it seemed like no more work than removing the little access door. Once off the filter is right there. Unscrew slowly and let the catch pan / drain thingy do it's job. It works very well. I found no need for a milk jug or ziplock. When the new filter is on just wipe the drain thing out with a paper towel or rag.

I got 6.5 qts in. Be careful not to blindly dump in 7 because it's really hard to get all 7 out, at least in my driveway with a slight grade.
 

Jobsitefish

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I did my first oil change ever a few weeks back. I did a lot of reading on this site, I was a bit nervous at first but everything went well. I let the old oil drain pretty good and used the entire 7 quarts. Oil indicator went to the level it had from factory. Oil dipstick also showed full at the exact level.

I removed the entire skid plate to avoid any issues.
 
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