Messiest oil change yet!

[jaz13]

These are "regular" threaded style; the Raptor is a partial turn, coarse threaded plastic plug. i.e. These don't work for us.

---------- Post added at 05:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:15 PM ----------



We'll just agree to disagree. I fire up and get pressure in fractional seconds; your way you rotate it 3 times for 5 seconds-each getting limited to zero pressure and so you spend probably three times the amount of time I do spinning on a limited oil film. I think, in your case, pre-charging is a solution looking for a problem.

The main reason for the anti-drain valve is to keep oil primed for the cam phasers and the heads; the turbos are sitting in residual oil baths and are less dependent on the instantaneous oil flow.

Also a significant number of manufacturers - and Ford is included - have engines where the oil filter is on the top side of the engine and drain down every time the engine stops (think: stop-start feature issues!) and yet these engines seem not to suffer regardless. In the very rare cases where establishing the oil flow and pressure is super critical (industrial, heavy duty, etc) the manufacturer will install a pre-start, electrically driven auxiliary oil pump.

In the end, it each to his own and what we think works best for ourselves.

Good luck, though.

I agree with you. If oil starvation caused serious problems, Ford would have engineered a solution around it a long, long time ago. The Raptor's design works well enough in the real world and that's all that matters.

 

[EricM]

We'll just agree to disagree. I fire up and get pressure in fractional seconds; your way you rotate it 3 times for 5 seconds-each getting limited to zero pressure and so you spend probably three times the amount of time I do spinning on a limited oil film.

It's not the same thing- the starter method never fires the engine. There is basically no load on the bearings.

Your method has the engine firing multiple cylinders prior to oil pressure coming up. The bearings are getting hammered by each cylinder that fires before the oil pressure is established.

I've done it both ways on my old truck dozens of times. Invariably, it always had a nice tapping sound when I just started it up. It lasted about 1-2 seconds until oil pressure got to the top of the engine. If I floored it and cranked it for about 10 seconds, it was always quiet when I started it. I just crank it until the oil pressure gauge moves.

Probably doesn't matter in the big picture, but it only takes 10 more seconds to do.

 

[ChevTillNow]

I picked up an 820. I usually have the oil changed at the dealership so I have the paperwork for my records. I bring in my own synthetic (Mobile1 5-30) and I've always had them just change the oil for 30 bucks.

This will be the first time I hand them a filter along with the oil LL.

My question: is the 820 the filter the dealership would put in a raptor if they were changing the oil on their own? Or are they using the smaller version mentioned in the first post? Anybody know?

 

[halogrinder]

Just changed my oil in my truck.
If you try to do this in your garage/driveway on jacks or whatever, I can understand why you'd think it makes a huge mess. I could see someone going crap crap crap as the oil comes out of the pan so quickly, it would overwhelm those autozone oil catch thingies with the little hole.


doing it as a shop, on a lift with an oil drain pan on wheels- I didn't spill more than a drop or two.
My only surprise is when I was ready for the oil to come out the inspection hole thru the skid plate, and it went straight down through the other side directly underneath the filter.

Overall, not terrible. Unsure how reports of effing up the drain plug is happening.