Add a sub problem

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 2]' started by sherwood, May 3, 2018.

  1. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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    This is why I was suggesting a multimeter. You need to check if your voltage is dropping or even stable.
     
  2. sherwood

    sherwood Member

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    I checked it but when I checked both positive/negative, it wasn’t under load.
     
  3. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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    I wouldn’t have suspected either power or ground, but when I pulled the ground cable, many of the strands had frayed and broken off. lesson learned.

    multi-meter positively id’d the problem as drop in voltage and giving the amp and sub clean power corrected the issue.
     
  4. The Car Stereo Company

    The Car Stereo Company aka nosbusa Supporting Vendor

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    what wires are you usng to go to the lc2? also try removing the lc2 from the system
     
  5. sherwood

    sherwood Member

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    I've tried going from iPhone to 3.5mm to RCA for amp inputs (taking LC2 out of system) and still had the same results.
     
  6. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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    we’re several pages in, so let’s level set, shall we?

    OP:

    Have you removed the line converter and reverted to simple splicing to RCA inputs? @Toadster’s blog, and the F150 forum post detail this method.

    here’s what know: your method didn’t work. Everyone else who’s done the sub mod has worked. what’s different?

    also, did you get a mutimeter read out while the sub / amp was under load?

    I’m not trying to make this personal here, just illustrate that this is a mod that literally dozens of us have done successfully. I even offered the troubleshooting I did to find the bum ground.

    can you get some pics showing your setup? We’re kind of shooting in the dark without a light here.

    if pics and the multi-meter and subsequent troubleshooting is going to be too much of an ask, bite the bullet and take it to pros.

    Could not cost more than $300 to fix this. If your time is more valuable, it may be best to go this way now, before you fry something.
     
  7. sherwood

    sherwood Member

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    I just hooked amp straight to battery positive/negative and used inputs from phone to RCA. Same result. I’m sure I’m screwing up but I've rewired and tried every combination but I'm hours in now without change.

    My main question is that so far it seems everyone doing this mod is 2017. Anyone with 2018 B&O do this?

    Video is setup as stated (yes I know speaker is not screwed in but previous tests show same “sound” regardless).
    https://youtu.be/7Ul0I_jD9fw
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2018
  8. sherwood

    sherwood Member

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    There’s not much to wiring but here is the pic. Red- battery positive
    Black - battery negative
    Missing is remote switch but was connected (amp was powered up)
    Input is from rca to phone (also missing to take picture)
    Speaker hooked up 4 ohm per instructions and confirmed with multimeter.
     

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  9. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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  10. sherwood

    sherwood Member

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    When hooked straight to battery it was either 12 or 14 gauge but when hooked to inverter power was 0 gauge.

    I really think it’s the 2018 enclosure with weird port tube causing the issue.
     

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