What did u do to your raptor today?

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MEIRONMAN207

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I've always been under the impression that the slip yoke has to basically be covered in grease before install. I've pulled it once and threw some red n tacky on it and cleaned off the bit that squeezed out.
On mine there was a blue grease inside, but it was mostly gone on the splines. That’s where you get the “clunk” or bump feel as the slip yoke splines stick to the shaft. Needs to be well lubed. (That’s what she said). Ford went to a Teflon grease as a repair item. I had Mobil red grease on hand. I use the same on my PTO on the tractors, so I should be fine.
 

ogdobber

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On mine there was a blue grease inside, but it was mostly gone on the splines. That’s where you get the “clunk” or bump feel as the slip yoke splines stick to the shaft. Needs to be well lubed. (That’s what she said). Ford went to a Teflon grease as a repair item. I had Mobil red grease on hand. I use the same on my PTO on the tractors, so I should be fine.

Ford recommends ptfe (which is blue) for the yoke but it eventually gets “washed” away by the transfer case fluid. So eventually the transfer case fluid becomes the lubricant for the yoke. The “clunk” is not from lack of lubricant, but from soft splines that were improperly heat treated and they wear out.
I believe all the new yokes made from ford are now properly heat treated. I replaced mine 3 years ago and still no clunk.



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badm0t0rfinger

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I never had the clunk. I just pulled for inspection and preventative maintenance at like 50k. Funny bit was that about 4k miles later my transfer case gave up low gear and it was replaced under warranty, but the tech had to have noticed... didnt say a word thankfully.
 

Gary E

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I'm glad the joints are replaceable. My '01 F-150 joints were not replaceable. New driveline. It developed a joint squeak at 25K. They had the truck for two weeks trying to determine where the squeak was coming from. Since the truck was one month over 36 months old on the 36/36 warranty, Ford would not warranty the replacement. I had to pay for a new driveline. The bill was something like $400. I told them I wanted the old driveline. They said they threw it away. They had to dig it out of the trash dumpster.
 

laselvasurf

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Today was one of those days...

Started at 8am with the idea of replacing the IWE actuators, hubs, calipers and pads on my raptor. The Passenger side went mostly as planned, other than one of the bolts that holds the IWE in place breaking off. That took an extra 45 minutes of futzing around to get it out and find a new bolt.
IMG-0684.jpg

After getting everything together, things were looking pretty dang clean!
IMG-0690.jpg
IMG-0692.jpg


The drivers side started easy... Then I found that this(the bolt through the SVC Offroad UCA) had been cross threaded... 3 hours later and 2 trips to the local hardware stores I was able to find a die and get the threads repaired.
IMG-0689.jpg


Everything was looking pretty solid at this point so I put the wheels on and dropped the truck to do the brake bed in process. That's when I noticed the brakes were not getting hard as they should. Come to find out, the new passenger side caliper had failed and was just squirting brake fluid all over everything.

IMG-0693.jpg

Back to autozone I went... This is where the fun really begins. I simply wanted to do an exchange for a new part, since the original was clearly bad. Unfortunately, their computers wouldn't connect to whatever servers so after nearly an hour, I was told I was just out of luck. At this point I needed to get things done, so I offered to just buy another caliper and would deal with the return later. They brought the part out and I was back home and getting it ready to install when I noticed that they sold me the wrong caliper. I cross checked the part numbers and it was way off.

Back to autozone I went... The manager thankfully recognized me and took care of me pretty quickly. I was able to get home, instal the caliper get everything put back together and do a quick road test. Everything seems to be functioning normally with no leaks! All in all, a job that should of taken 3-4 hours max ended up taking 9+. I had planned on replacing the door keypad and installing bed lights as well today, but beer and dinner is calling so it'll have to wait.
 

CoronaRaptor

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Today was one of those days...

Started at 8am with the idea of replacing the IWE actuators, hubs, calipers and pads on my raptor. The Passenger side went mostly as planned, other than one of the bolts that holds the IWE in place breaking off. That took an extra 45 minutes of futzing around to get it out and find a new bolt.
IMG-0684.jpg

After getting everything together, things were looking pretty dang clean!
IMG-0690.jpg
IMG-0692.jpg


The drivers side started easy... Then I found that this(the bolt through the SVC Offroad UCA) had been cross threaded... 3 hours later and 2 trips to the local hardware stores I was able to find a die and get the threads repaired.
IMG-0689.jpg


Everything was looking pretty solid at this point so I put the wheels on and dropped the truck to do the brake bed in process. That's when I noticed the brakes were not getting hard as they should. Come to find out, the new passenger side caliper had failed and was just squirting brake fluid all over everything.

IMG-0693.jpg

Back to autozone I went... This is where the fun really begins. I simply wanted to do an exchange for a new part, since the original was clearly bad. Unfortunately, their computers wouldn't connect to whatever servers so after nearly an hour, I was told I was just out of luck. At this point I needed to get things done, so I offered to just buy another caliper and would deal with the return later. They brought the part out and I was back home and getting it ready to install when I noticed that they sold me the wrong caliper. I cross checked the part numbers and it was way off.

Back to autozone I went... The manager thankfully recognized me and took care of me pretty quickly. I was able to get home, instal the caliper get everything put back together and do a quick road test. Everything seems to be functioning normally with no leaks! All in all, a job that should of taken 3-4 hours max ended up taking 9+. I had planned on replacing the door keypad and installing bed lights as well today, but beer and dinner is calling so it'll have to wait.
That's about the luck I have when I work on my vehicles, I over prepare now a days!
 

The Car Stereo Company

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Today was one of those days...

Started at 8am with the idea of replacing the IWE actuators, hubs, calipers and pads on my raptor. The Passenger side went mostly as planned, other than one of the bolts that holds the IWE in place breaking off. That took an extra 45 minutes of futzing around to get it out and find a new bolt.
IMG-0684.jpg

After getting everything together, things were looking pretty dang clean!
IMG-0690.jpg
IMG-0692.jpg


The drivers side started easy... Then I found that this(the bolt through the SVC Offroad UCA) had been cross threaded... 3 hours later and 2 trips to the local hardware stores I was able to find a die and get the threads repaired.
IMG-0689.jpg


Everything was looking pretty solid at this point so I put the wheels on and dropped the truck to do the brake bed in process. That's when I noticed the brakes were not getting hard as they should. Come to find out, the new passenger side caliper had failed and was just squirting brake fluid all over everything.

IMG-0693.jpg

Back to autozone I went... This is where the fun really begins. I simply wanted to do an exchange for a new part, since the original was clearly bad. Unfortunately, their computers wouldn't connect to whatever servers so after nearly an hour, I was told I was just out of luck. At this point I needed to get things done, so I offered to just buy another caliper and would deal with the return later. They brought the part out and I was back home and getting it ready to install when I noticed that they sold me the wrong caliper. I cross checked the part numbers and it was way off.

Back to autozone I went... The manager thankfully recognized me and took care of me pretty quickly. I was able to get home, instal the caliper get everything put back together and do a quick road test. Everything seems to be functioning normally with no leaks! All in all, a job that should of taken 3-4 hours max ended up taking 9+. I had planned on replacing the door keypad and installing bed lights as well today, but beer and dinner is calling so it'll have to wait.
rookie..... you aint there yet. you should have seen my power steering pump replacement.


4 times in 2 days
 

MTF

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Ford recommends ptfe (which is blue) for the yoke but it eventually gets “washed” away by the transfer case fluid. So eventually the transfer case fluid becomes the lubricant for the yoke. The “clunk” is not from lack of lubricant, but from soft splines that were improperly heat treated and they wear out.
I believe all the new yokes made from ford are now properly heat treated. I replaced mine 3 years ago and still no clunk.



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It's the "Nickel Plating" that was an issue for 2010 1/2 and 2011 to 2012 1/2, that has been fixed!
Many manufactures did this not just Ford, to help stop the binding in the slip yoke.
But the Nickel plating doesn't last for ever, so it comes a time to replace.

I use Dupont Extreme Heavy Equipment grease in mine, I don't have to treat mine for years.
And use a small cheap paint brush to lightly coat the splines inside the yoke.
Any excess grease will go into the transfer case fluid so don't use a cheap tacky grease.
 
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RC51TOFUMAN

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Purchased this extra set..in 2016
Going to drop them off at Fox Service Center in the morning to have them rebuilt/serviced
e182533b7e6c32060221590348a6bdb1.jpg3443b13a24c10c57273ad42623b17f30.jpg

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I just dropped off at Fox today
Cosmetically the shocks look great...but yes...they do show that they were leaking. I bought this extra set in 2016 and has been in storage until this weekend.

Brandon at Fox was helpful. He quoted an approximate 3week turn around time.

So Question for you tenured Offroad peeps. When I get these shocks back ready for install, is there anything else I should look at replacing or inspecting? Not looking to upgrade anything...just maintenance related....stuff like bushings etc...

If there is a Must upgrade "to do" while I'm switching these shocks out...let me know and I thankyou for the responses

I'm content with Stock OEM but sometimes...certain items....Stock OEM sucks...and needs to be upgraded/retrofitted. Please advise and I thankyou
 
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