Icon stock replacements??

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pat'sRAPTOR

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Great news. This will allow me to continue competing in the stock all wheel class until I am ready to make the move to prepared or modified

I have been paranoid the last couple days that my rear shocks were blown, but I can't find any proof yet

The best way to check them is remove the rear shock and try to compress it by hand. If you can compress the shock by hand a bit then they're blown! I've had a few guys show me this method is probably the eat way to check your shocks.
 

Yukon Joe

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Great news. This will allow me to continue competing in the stock all wheel class until I am ready to make the move to prepared or modified

I have been paranoid the last couple days that my rear shocks were blown, but I can't find any proof yet

Do you find that you are hitting harder? Many have blown rear shocks and didn't know it. Aarons and Greg both pulled their rear shocks off only to find that they could completely compress them by hand.

You should be able to check yours easy enough by removing the bottom mounting bolt and see if you can compress them.

Yukon Joe
Buffalo Run Support Raptor
http://www.fordraptorforum.com/showthread.php?p=364119
 

ICONRep

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Great news. This will allow me to continue competing in the stock all wheel class until I am ready to make the move to prepared or modified

I have been paranoid the last couple days that my rear shocks were blown, but I can't find any proof yet

I would think you could use the 3.0 shocks as well as they bolt into the stock mounts ... That is usually the rule right? Maybe they put a rule so strict that it must stay the same diameter as the stock shock?

We have helped many people racking in classes they you must use the stock shock mounts because we have some serious 2.5" shocks that can be mounted in most factory locations.


ICON Vehicle Dynamics

www.iconvehicledynamics.com
www.facebook.com/ivdsuspension
 

MTUH3

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I would think you could use the 3.0 shocks as well as they bolt into the stock mounts ... That is usually the rule right? Maybe they put a rule so strict that it must stay the same diameter as the stock shock?

We have helped many people racking in classes they you must use the stock shock mounts because we have some serious 2.5" shocks that can be mounted in most factory locations.


ICON Vehicle Dynamics

Performance Suspension Systems, Coil-Over Shocks, Uniball Upper Control Arms, and Lift Kits for Trucks and Suv's
www.facebook.com/ivdsuspension

I will double check the rule. It is pretty vague, "absorbers must be OEM or OEM replacement." Though the 3.0's will bolt in to factory locations, they are an upgrade and not replacement part.

I was going to meet with some race veterans to help me understand the rules more, but we had to reschedule to next week.

Front what I read so far, upgrading the suspension to a Icon Stage 1 or 2 would only bump me to the "prepared class," which I may run later this year or next once I get a few more laps under my belt.

I will keep you guys updated. I will do a little more research when my hand heals up a bit more. Using a computer is tough with 7 fingers.

Joe / Pat, I will get the shocks like you suggest. I might more up my oil change appt and have the dealer check it out
 

MTUH3

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Here is a little bit of what I was able to pull from the SCCA Rallycross rule book:

13. Shocks/dampers may be replaced with OEM or aftermarket replacement units intended for the specific year make and model used. The stock spring must be used as it was on the OEM unit. The spring perch must be factory welded to the damper or use the exact attachment method and position as OEM. Adjustable dampers are only allowed if the OEM unit was adjustable 27 and must retain the same number of adjustments or fewer as OEM. Remote reservoir shocks are only allowed if they are exact OEM units.
14. The front sway bar may be added, replaced or removed. A replacement front sway bar may serve no other purpose than originally intended by the vehicle manufacturer. In the case where the front sway bar is also a suspension locating link, stock geometry and methods of attachment must be maintained.

Language Clarification:
Any dampers may be used. Damper attachment points on the body/frame/subframe/chassis/suspension member may not be altered. This installation may incorporate an alternate upper spring perch/seat and/or mounting block (bearing mount). No damper may be capable of adjustment while the car is in motion, unless fitted as original equipment. MacPherson strut equipped cars may substitute struts, and/or may use any insert. This does not allow unauthorized changes in suspension geometry or changes in attachment points (e.g., affecting the position of the lower ball joint or spindle). Threaded collars and camber plates are allowed.
6.2.D.8.a Camber kits, also known as camber compensators, may be installed. These kits consist of either adjustable length arms or arm mounts (including ball joints) that provide a lateral adjustment to the effective length of a control arm. Alignment outside the factory specifications is allowed. The following restrictions apply:
1. On double/unequal arm (e.g. wishbone, multi-link) suspensions, only the upper arms OR lower arms may be modified or replaced, but not both. Non-integral longitudinal arms that primarily control fore/aft wheel movement (e.g. trailing arm(s) or link(s) of a multilink suspension) may not be replaced, changed, or modified.
2. On arm-and-strut (MacPherson) suspensions, Adjustable camber plates may be installed at the top of the strut and the original upper mounting holes may be slotted. The drilling of holes in order to perform the installation is permitted. The 4 center clearance hole may not be modified. Any type of bearing or bushing may be used in the adjustable camber plate attachment to the strut. The installation may incorporate an alternate upper spring perch/seat and/or mounting block (bearing mount).
3. On swing or trailing arm suspensions, the main arms may not be modified or replaced, but lateral locating links/arms may be modified or replaced.
4. The replacement arms or mounts must attach to the original standard mounting points. All bushings may not be moved or relocated on the arm, except as incidental to the camber adjustment. The knuckle/bearing housing/spindle assembly cannot be modified or replaced.
6.2.D.8.b Springs may be replaced, but they must be of the same type and use original mounting points.
 

mictouch

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If you guys haven't been in a Raptor with the ICON 3.0's - YOU SHOULD... First make sure you have the money. REALLY... They have preserved the on road ride - OR, it might even ride better than the stock shocks. The Off Road ride is amazing and it's exactly what the Raptor can handle without going to the next BIG STEP and adding a full cage and 4 link suspension which is more like in the neighbor hood of 100k to do it right.
 

mictouch

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Great news. This will allow me to continue competing in the stock all wheel class until I am ready to make the move to prepared or modified

I have been paranoid the last couple days that my rear shocks were blown, but I can't find any proof yet

As far as the stock shocks being BLOWN... I have pulled apart many sets and NEVER seen a BLOWN stock shock. In fact, I've only seen one shock that had a leaky o-ring and it lost 30 - 40cc of oil. The biggest culprit is leaking nitrogen. Inspect the shock and look for moisture, or mud. It is normal to see a little moisture where oil might be passing an o-ring around the steel body to the Aluminum cap. Not to worry this is totally normal. The nitrogen can be checked fairly easy and if it is low refill it back to 200 psi. If you see a big drool of oil and/or a puddle of mud around the front shocks then you will need them to be serviced. The rear shocks are easy to remove and depress the shock on the floor - it should take all your body weight plus some and an initial grunt to get them to move. They will only depress 2/3 of the way before the valving hits the bump zone and this will take A LOT more force than you can push by hand to depress the shock shaft past this point. Same with the front shocks if you remove them from the truck and remove the coil spring. The same force should be needed to depress them. Once the shock is refilled with nitrogen properly – you should be good to go! Try to keep them clean and check the nitrogen once a year if possible.

I hope this helps.

---------- Post added at 10:01 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:58 AM ----------

^^ Mictouch!!! you are still among us; it's good to see you are still around.

Yeah, thank you! Just lots of family medical issues! Just got back from the Mint 400 and we will be heading to the NORRA race and taking the Raptor all the way to Cabo.

Check out my latest pictures from the Mint 400 at Micro Touch, Inc. Photography | MINT 400 Race - 2013
 

justvettn

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I took my rears off with very few miles on them and cant get them to budge even with putting all my weight on them or no amount of grunting.
 
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