Tips to keep your raptor looking new and easy to keep clean

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TxRaptor6.2

TxRaptor6.2

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Follow up answers on product information.

Sorry I have been away awhile, but will try and answer all questions with this response. Everyone has there preference, but here is my thoughts on products. When I owned my detail shop many manufactures hit me up wanting me to promote 1-7 year paint protectants. But it seemed although some of the products did work well. Most required you to bring the vehicle back to the shop at least once a year or the warranty would be void. The reason was because the product needed to be applied at least once a year. So buying the warranty was kinda like prepaying for the following years of getting the product applied. Also the fine print would often leave the manufacture a number of ways to get out of paying for damage you were led to believe was covered under the warranty. My solution was to offer the application of the product, but I choose not to offer the warranty. This saved customers allot of money since the manufacture charges quite a bit for the warranty document.
Although Teflon and other "long term" paint sealants are good at protecting the paint. In my opionion they are best used in a cooler climate. Im in Texas and the blazing summer heat will dry out most anything. Which leads me back to the basics. Using a good quality Carnauba wax helps to not only protect the surface, it helps replenish the dryness caused by heat, sun light and use of soap. Ive tried hundreds of types of wax's. My favorite is "Quickor P-79" it is a grade 1 Carnauba wax with durable copolymers. It is not available in retail stores. However you can order it directly from BAF Industries 714-258-8055 or online at www.prowax.com It is sold by the gallon and I think it runs about $45. One gallon should last you for years. It wipes on and off very easy if applied in the shade to a cool surface. I fill a mustard bottle with the wax for easier application. Store gallon inside your house. The heat will dry it out over time if kept in your garage. Also I find its easier to apply wax using an old sock. Just put your hand into the sock and use it to rub the wax onto the finish. Its much easier then with a lager applicator because you have better control over keeping the wax off of textured finishes. A terry cloth hand towel wipes it right off. Unlike many types of wax, this product leaves little to no wax dust. Follow up with a micro fiber towel to remove fine streaks. Also I use the wax to remove road tar, bugs etc.. instead of other cleaners that actually dry out the paint making things stick even more in the future. As far as a protectant for a clear bra, just like any smooth surface, I would use the carnuba wax. I apply this to the front of the truck, headlights etc every few weeks since it helps keep the bugs and crud where it will rinse right off.
If you already have invested in a long term paint sealant, it may actually seal out the carnuba wax from soaking in. But after a full summer of sun and heat. It will begin to soak deeper into the paint as the other sealant begins to dry out.
As for silicone Ive been using Black Magic Protectant. Invisible Glass is a great glass cleaner. Auto Zone and Wallmart carry both products.
Sorry for the novel here. Just trying to cover all bases here. It all seems to come down to the basic concept that as your truck ages, all surfaces dry out. Then it gets harder to clean because mud, dirt, bugs and everything else starts to stick because it is soaking into the finish. Next comes faded plastic, cracked rubber and eventual clear coat starting to peal off because as it dries out it shrinks breaking the bond to the base coat. Watch out for use of wheel cleaners, bug / tar remover, dish soap, solvents etc. They all dry the finish out even more. If you must use cleaners, always rinse of well with water and then wax or silicone the surface.
SVT Floor Matts: I was getting frustrated with trying to keep them clean. Seemed like every foot print showed up on the black rubber. And short of washing them it was not easy to wipe them clean. So I soaked them in Silicone. Ugh, I was regretting this as I wiped access silicone from down in each grove for seems like an hour. But turned out to be well worth it. So far Ive been able to easily wipe then clean with just a paper towel damp with water.
 

FordFanStan

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Great answers, thanks a ton.

Now just two more if you don't mind:

1. Does the silicone every feel greasy or attract dust? I would be afraid to try it on my floormats unless you state otherwise. If not this is probably the best product for all bumper plastics, interior trim, etc correct?

2. We have to see pics of your truck, it must be one sharp beauty :)

Thanks again, FFS
 
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TxRaptor6.2

TxRaptor6.2

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I have not noticed it feeling greasy. And do not notice that it attracts dust. But you will need to allow a few minutes for it to soak in and then you should wipe off excess. I sprayed it on heavy on the mats, then gave it about 15 minutes to soak in all it could. Then spent quite some time wiping off the excess. Now dirt and dust seems to wipe off with a damp towel much easier. If you do not take the time to wipe off the excess, it will likely become greasy. When I had my detail shop I did use a commercial silicone. I moved to a small town and cant seem to find the commercial product anymore. The Black Magic Silicone seems to me to work best and last the longest for a product easily available. Just keep in mind you do not want to use a large towel when wiping off excess. You do not want to soak it all back up. An old T shirt cut into about an eight inch square worked great for me. Wiping excess from all the grooves on the mats was a real pain. But I found it to be worth it. And if you must pressure wash them in the future due to allot of mud, first try using high pressure rinse without soap. The soap will remove quite a bit of the product. If the mats are already mud stained, 409 or fantastic works good followed with high pressure rinse. But this will dry it out more so follow up with silicone. And I would not use those types of house hold cleaners on any other parts of the truck other then tires and mats. I do have a few pics of my truck on my profile. Working on getting some more soon.
 

SLB8SNK

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Ummm not disagreeing but the full line of ICE products will do the same, easier to use, inside and out, and seems to last longer. Benn using it for years, on my GT500 and Jag, and now my Raptor. Amazing and easy to use, and long lasting stuff.
 
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TxRaptor6.2

TxRaptor6.2

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Many great products out there. Over all I think the main thing is to use a quality product and use it as often as needed. And try and avoid use of harsh soaps such as dish soap that strips the products off and drys out the surface.
 

SuperRaptor

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I would highly recommend against using any silicon products on rubber seals/tires/interior surfaces. A good water based dressing with a high SPF (Like Adam's leather conditioner with SPF 65 or their VRT with SPF 30 OR 303 aerospace protectant) will do a good job of protecting against the harsh rays and won't cause that greasy feeling. Silicon will also cause your tires to turn brown if you don't do a good job degreasing them. This is just my opinion from detailing about 20-30 higher end cars a year.
 
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