How To Raptor + RollX + Bike Mounts

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MC B2K

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Joined
Dec 22, 2012
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Location
Castle Rock, CO
Difficulty: Medium
Time: 2 to 3 hours

I finally came up with a custom bike rack solution. I had a few objectives;
1) It would not be mounted permanently to the truck
2) It would not take up bed space
3) It would be hidden when the tonneau was closed
4) It would cost < $100

After examining the RollX, I discovered a 1/8" channel under the rail. My RollX came shipped with an aluminum tab in this channel about 12 inches from the front of the rail.
The retaining strap was attached to it. Bak uses a 3/16" aluminum rivet to hold the tab in place.

You 'll need the following:
1 ~5' piece of 3 x .130 web x 1 1/5" aluminum channel (AA shape)
2 5" pieces of 2" x 1/8" aluminum plate
6 3/16" x 1/4" aluminum rivets
6 1/4" x 20 x 3/8" grade 8 button head Allen screws (or similar)
4 or 6 1/4" x 20 x 3/4" grade 8 bolts (for the bike mounts)
2 or 3 fork mount style bike mounts ( I used Rocky Mounts Clutch Van/Truck Bed Rack - Outside Outfitters) I had a couple already.
A drill and various bits
A tap to match your screws
A rivet tool
An Allen wrench
Something to cut aluminum plate and channel
4 C clamps

Let's get started.

Plate.jpg


The 1st step was to remove the RollX from the truck.

Next drill the rivet out that holds the tab, very carefully, so as to not
damage the rail. Once the rivet is removed, you'll use the hole for the rearmost of the mounting holes.

Hole2.jpg


Next, cut 2, 5" lengths off the end of the 1/8" stock. Use something to mark a radius pattern, and cut your rounded, overzize tabs.

Shape.jpg


Next, test fit the tabs and mark the location of the rear hole. A note here, you can just drill your first hole ( the one where the existing hole is in the channel ) and then drill through the channel and tab simultaneously for the next 2 holes.

TestFit.jpg


After the tabs are fitted and drilled, use the rivets to hold them in place temporarily. DO NOT squash the rivets yet!

ReadyToRivet.jpg


Next, measure the span of the bed where the tabs are to be mounted. Leave about 1/8" space on each end to clear the RollX channels. My channel was 58 1/4" long. Yours will be close to that. Now cut the channel with your saw (I used a band saw), then sand the ends square and smooth.
Using the 4 C clamps, line the channel up under the tabs, center everything and mark for the mounting holes.

Drill the beam at the marks with a 3/16" bit and tap them.

TappedChannel.jpg


Now, mount the the channel to the bottom of the tabs using the 3 button head screws. Cinch it up snug.

channelMounted.jpg


Now you can squash the rivets. Everything will be rock solid.

Squashed.jpg


SquashedBottom.jpg


Now remove the channel and mark the placement of the bike mounts. I placed a set of holes 10 inches from each end and one set dead center. Drill your holes for the mounts, tap them and attach the mounts.

You can now attach the channel to the tabs.

Re-install your RollX cover per the manufacturer instructions. You need to locate the retaining straps on the attachment studs, under the lock washer.
With the Rollx in the open position, you'll now be able to carry 2 or 3 bikes with ease.

Completed.jpg

Closed.jpg

WithBike1.jpg

WithBike2.jpg

WithBike3.jpg


I'm really stoked about how this turned out. It looks factory and is totally out of the way when not in use. I may paint it or brush it, I haven't decided.

Total cost including shipping of the aluminum channel was right around $80 using bike mounts I already had.
 
Last edited:

Droid

kglesq's Brother
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Nice work and nice looking Tallboy! Get yourself an adjust-o-matic seatpost ASAP though...they're finally to the point that they'll last more than a year.

Personally just run a Dakine mat (commonly have to fill truck with MTBs), but really need to cut a hole in it for the rear cam.
 
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