Which speakers with these old amps?

[BHook]

I have a Alpine PDX-5, Kenwood Exelon XR-4S and a Kenwood XR-1S collecting dust in the garage. I was thinking about replacing the B&O in my 2018 SCREW with a better setup. Plans are to build a dual 10" down firing underseat enclosure and run it off the XR-1S. Was wonderimg if I could use the XR-4S to run active front stage into some 6.5" components up front and use the PDX-5 for the rear 6.5s (PDX-5 sub channel wouldn't be used).

Specs:
XR-1S - RMS 600W, Peak 1500W, Power a 2 Ohm 700W, Minimum Impedance 2 Ohm

XR-4S - RMS 120W x 4, Peak 300W x 4, Power a 2 Ohm 150W x 4, Bridged Power 300W x 2, Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 Ohm, Unbridged 2 Ohm

PDX-5 - RMS 75W x 4 and 300W x 1, Power at 2 Ohm 75W x 4, Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 Ohm, Unbridged 2 Ohm

Any recommendations for the Subs and Front/Rear speakers?

Planning on the PAC AP4-FD31 to interface with the B&O.

Not wasting my time with a DSP (after flying helicopters almost 5 days a week for the last 34 years, I don't believe I'd be able to tell the difference).

Also planning on the highly recommended Sound insulation of doors/cab, door block off plates, Power/Ground from the battery, etc...

Not looking to break the bank, just some decent sound with improved Bass.

 

[BHook]

Would I be better off just getting the Kicker Key 2004 and 5001 amps?

 

[smurfslayer]

Check out the thread from @goblues38 , it’s pretty good write up on the Jen Too B&o upgrade

 

[BHook]

Check out the thread from @goblues38 , it’s pretty good write up on the Jen Too B&o upgrade

His thread inspired me to tackle this project! Just trying to figure out if using all 3 of my amps would be worth it.

 

[smurfslayer]

With your goals I’d say something along the lines of

PDX5 with components up front, put the tweets on the pillars. Don’t run (or disconnect) the center channel.
Rears I think you could get away with coax

I’ve got 450w / 1x10 behind the seat. It’s a lot, but I’d like just a touch more bass. Not a lot, just a bit more.
I have Morel components up front and the loaded MTI behind the seat enclosure. I’ve also got 75x4 amp, and it’s good to very good. It’s not audiophile but the truck isn’t full sound proofed either and it’s loud so there’s that. Still, it’s infinitely more precise than the factory sony labeled stuff.

I think at 120x4 you won’t have enough bass.

 

[BHook]

So 120w x 4 will overpower 700W at the sub?

That's why I was thinking of bridging the XR-4S amp to send 300W x 2 to the front stage. Use the PDX-5 amp bridged for the rear 150W x 2. 600-700W to the subs from the XR-1S amp.

 

[smurfslayer]

awful lot of work and extra money to get a few more db, AMIRITE?

75w is already enough to reach uncomfortable db readings in the cab with the windows down, and powerful enough for all windows open at 70 and still be able to hear the tunes. You mentioned budget was a concern.

 

[BHook]

Yes, don't want to spend a ton, but already have all 3 amps. Just need to buy speakers and build a box. (and get the PAC AP4-FD31 interface)

 

[smurfslayer]

And the cabling for power and ground, and good connectors, and the insulation... This gets away from us quickly.

 

[goblues38]

His thread inspired me to tackle this project! Just trying to figure out if using all 3 of my amps would be worth it.

You need 5 channels. Use what ever hardware you need to get 5 channels.