festusrocks2001
Active Member
Well I replaced my stock sub and speakers.
I have NAV and HAD sony premium speakers.
I used a MTX Thunderform made for F150 and fits under the pass. rear seat.
Replaced all door speakers with Focal 570's 5x7's.
Speakers sound much clearer and crisp(tested after just changing the fronts).
Sub rattles the truck!
Added the new sub right to the factory sub connection wiring. The MTX sub is set up for high level inputs. Went to the auto parts store and bought new spade connectors and did not cut ONE wire, no clamp-on's nothing that cannot be returned to stock (for resale). Did not have to hook up the remote turn on wire as the sub detects the high level inputs and turns on.
Ran the power wire through the big plug in the firewall as it has a "***" on it that was obviously designed for a new wire. I did not cut off the whole tip just about half and then cut an X and pushed the cable though. When you pull the cable out you cannot tell it is even modified. Ran the power wire through the door sills and up the corner at the back door. Then back across the floor and cut a new "T" in the carpet about 6" towards the drivers side and ran the sub power and the old factory outputs out his hole to let the sub lay flat on the floor. This has all the wires come up in the cut out on the sub box.
The sub has a remote gain control that is nice, mounted mine with Velcro on the side of the consol for now. Hard to drill a hole.....
.
Installed the speakers with the gasket, spacer and then the speaker's in the doors. Used the factory screws. I zip tied the extra wire in the door panels to the wiring in there and also installed dynamat extreme behind the speakers.
Used speaker adapter cables, can get these from Crutchfield, best buy...
Ordered a cheap door removal tool kit 5 piece. THIS IS WORTH EVERY PENNY. (Also used these to remove my SVT side covers)
Check on you tube to remove the door panels.
I did have a problem with the amp Connections as one pulled out of the connector. I reformed the plug and re-clamped the wire. Use a paper clip or scribe and remove these connections and use heat shrink to make the wire to spade connection is secure, then reinstall into the plastic connector.
If it has wheels and the radio's broke... I don't drive it!!
I have NAV and HAD sony premium speakers.
I used a MTX Thunderform made for F150 and fits under the pass. rear seat.
Replaced all door speakers with Focal 570's 5x7's.
Speakers sound much clearer and crisp(tested after just changing the fronts).
Sub rattles the truck!
Added the new sub right to the factory sub connection wiring. The MTX sub is set up for high level inputs. Went to the auto parts store and bought new spade connectors and did not cut ONE wire, no clamp-on's nothing that cannot be returned to stock (for resale). Did not have to hook up the remote turn on wire as the sub detects the high level inputs and turns on.
Ran the power wire through the big plug in the firewall as it has a "***" on it that was obviously designed for a new wire. I did not cut off the whole tip just about half and then cut an X and pushed the cable though. When you pull the cable out you cannot tell it is even modified. Ran the power wire through the door sills and up the corner at the back door. Then back across the floor and cut a new "T" in the carpet about 6" towards the drivers side and ran the sub power and the old factory outputs out his hole to let the sub lay flat on the floor. This has all the wires come up in the cut out on the sub box.
The sub has a remote gain control that is nice, mounted mine with Velcro on the side of the consol for now. Hard to drill a hole.....
. Installed the speakers with the gasket, spacer and then the speaker's in the doors. Used the factory screws. I zip tied the extra wire in the door panels to the wiring in there and also installed dynamat extreme behind the speakers.
Used speaker adapter cables, can get these from Crutchfield, best buy...
Ordered a cheap door removal tool kit 5 piece. THIS IS WORTH EVERY PENNY. (Also used these to remove my SVT side covers)
Check on you tube to remove the door panels.
I did have a problem with the amp Connections as one pulled out of the connector. I reformed the plug and re-clamped the wire. Use a paper clip or scribe and remove these connections and use heat shrink to make the wire to spade connection is secure, then reinstall into the plastic connector.
If it has wheels and the radio's broke... I don't drive it!!
