Long Tube Headers and Engine Light

[Wilson]

i blame stainless works for the problem , there design for the placement of the 02 sensor is wrong, there cats offer to much flow and nothing can get hot enough, for the sensors to turn on without throwing a light, i think kooks has the better set up with there green cats and shorter tube headers.

---------- Post added at 01:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:28 PM ----------

think your right hockster, shorty's will allow the sensors to heat up to temperture, and pass, the stainless header sucks, my mistake , another live and learn process.

with this statement I must see pictures of your current setup. I ran SW LT headers for 3k miles with no tune with no problems I did have the high flow cats. I don't get why some would have a problem unless they one are installed wrong. two you're using weak gas that burns too slowly or three you're full of bs. I'm leaning towards one of the first two.

 

[NickPic83]

ok hear is a theory. if u run a higher octane than needed u should burn hotter right? what if u use some torco or add a few gallons of vp112 or something. maybe that will heat the sensors faster for inspection purposes...?

 

[vipergts]

well i contacted american racing headers ,that is 15 minutes from the house and they want to look at my setup and test 02 sensors and then they will tell me what the problem is and if there is a fix, as far as fuel i'm 87, should i burn 93, will that make up for my problem ??? or there must be a short some where that has to be addressed, i don't know i am not a mechanic, what pictures do you need it can only go one way , i don't get that , the code is po153, bank 2 side 1, "slow response"

 

[NickPic83]

that tells me they are too far downstream. i am not 100% sure of the cause of it. im gonna look some more now

found this

What does that mean?This involves the oxygen sensor upstream the catalytic converter on Bank 2. This code indicates the engine air fuel ratio is not being adjusted by the oxygen sensor signal or the ECM as expected to do so, or not adjusted as often as expected to do so once the engine is warmed or under normal engine use.

SymptomsYou will likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms.

CausesA code P0153 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The oxygen sensor is faulty
The wiring to the sensor is broken / frayed
There is an exhaust leak
Possible SolutionsThings that may fix the problem include:

Check and fix any exhaust leaks
Check for wiring problems (shorted, frayed wires)
Check the frequency and amplitude of the oxygen sensor (advanced)
Check for a deteriorating / contaminated oxygen sensor, replace if necessary
Check for inlet air leaks
Check the MAF sensor for proper operation
Replace the Bank 2 oxygen sensor upstream of the catalytic converter


still looking...

 

[vipergts]

i will see what the guys at arh have to say the problem is , i will let them fix it , i'm thrilled that they are willing to look at a system that is not there's, and try to help out on this.

 

[Wilson]

I don't need any pictures but I agree try at least 91 octane. or coughe-30cough

 

[vipergts]

they are right before the clamp goes on , i mentioned that to tech at sw, and he say's that is the stock location where ford puts there's , but i said ford's run hotter because of the stock manifolds and they run much hotter, the cats are much less flow more restricion

---------- Post added at 02:46 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:39 PM ----------

i did change that sensor , and the wiring looks good, so thats not it, i did have some black soot around the clamps and got them tight for they were not that tight , did not check the manifolds will try that to see if i can get any thing on them , i want arh to throw the truck on the lift and look at it and hoping to determine the cause and will post up the second i get home, if they got the fix ,

 

[NickPic83]

i ran mine only for a very short time with no tune like a few minutes but it never gave me a CEL. maybe try removing the clamps and pull the pipes apart and put some copper sensor safe RTV around the pipe then slide them back together and tighten the $hit out of the clamp close to the edge of the pipe. that will seal that connection up and should help a bit.

my last rig had a bad leak in the same spot and i did what i just stated and the code went away. its worth a shot

 

[vipergts]

i did not get far without a tune , with the tune they shut off the monitors, and it ran awesome, with the tune
, so you get no light,in the rears i have sims there so, hoping if they figure out the front ,then all will be good , pass inspection, then throw the performance tune back in and return the cai,back as well.

 

[NickPic83]

what sims did u use for the rears?