GEN 2 KHC Torque Arm, anyone running it?

[smurfslayer]

Got it. I’ll check it out.

 

[lateralis]

Got the arm off and took some pics. The inner bushing for the slide joint got pushed in almost 4.5". I might be able to pull it out but I haven't tried yet.

Also got in contact with KHC and they said it was from the arm not being properly adjusted. I'm not sure what they mean by that since the instructions literally just say adjust the rear until you can get the bolts in.. So I'm waiting on a response from them on what they say.

From the pics you can see that I ate out one of the arms sleeves and the slip joint rod pretty good. It might be alright if I can get the bushing back out but I'm not sure what you can do to prevent it from being shoved back in like that.

I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[Muchmore]

If I were a betting man I would say the shaft got something around it when it was fully extended and when it went to compress back down the bushing couldn't slide on the shaft so it was shoved back down into the arm. I don't know what could have gotten on the slip-yoke shaft to make it so sticky the bushing wouldn't slide but that's weird.

Is there even a way to adjust the "length of pull" on the slip yoke?

 

[smurfslayer]

Also got in contact with KHC and they said it was from the arm not being properly adjusted. I'm not sure what they mean by that since the instructions literally just say adjust the rear until you can get the bolts in.. So I'm waiting on a response from them on what they say.

Yeah, the instructions aren’t verbose.
..."
Finally install the torque arm. Adjust the rear threaded joint as needed so the lower slotted hole comes into position to install the bolt. Tighten all the hardware and grease the slide joint...”


TBF, KHC didn’t tell us not to install the lower diff shield if we wanted to keep our differential bearings either

Is there even a way to adjust the "length of pull" on the slip yoke?

if your theory is correct, what about something like a cv boot?

 

[Muchmore]

if your theory is correct, what about something like a cv boot?

That's what driveshafts have gone to at their slip joints. Good luck getting something to seal over that square shaft but it would for sure keep stuff off that shaft. It would keep the bushing in better shape.

 

[lateralis]

If I were a betting man I would say the shaft got something around it when it was fully extended and when it went to compress back down the bushing couldn't slide on the shaft so it was shoved back down into the arm. I don't know what could have gotten on the slip-yoke shaft to make it so sticky the bushing wouldn't slide but that's weird.

Is there even a way to adjust the "length of pull" on the slip yoke?

You know that might be a good idea... I already go the thing apart I could get something round to weld to the arm and clamp down a CV boot over it and load it with wheel bearing grease. I just got to figure out what to do about the bushing.

Also TBF to KHC even though I don't have a ton miles in the dirt with it, when I do go I'm not friendly with the truck lol. All things considering 10K miles before a failure doesn't seem too bad for an aftermarket part being put to use.

 

[Muchmore]

Also TBF to KHC even though I don't have a ton miles in the dirt with it, when I do go I'm not friendly with the truck lol. All things considering 10K miles before a failure doesn't seem too bad for an aftermarket part being put to use.

The way that arm is worn out at the mouth you will never get another seal to fit. You can fill that space but when the yoke rocks up and down it will just tear out what ever fill material you put in there. Unless, you could take it off and weld up that lower worn spot then turn it down on a lathe. We used to do this to prop shafts and axle shafts that would get seal groves in them. We would weld up the grove and then turn it down on a lathe. YOu cans o the same with the yoke, either over-bore it and go with a thicker seal or weld it up and turn it back down.

Just remember to keep the grease zerk exposed --and use it often

 

[lateralis]

The way that arm is worn out at the mouth you will never get another seal to fit. You can fill that space but when the yoke rocks up and down it will just tear out what ever fill material you put in there. Unless, you could take it off and weld up that lower worn spot then turn it down on a lathe. We used to do this to prop shafts and axle shafts that would get seal groves in them. We would weld up the grove and then turn it down on a lathe. YOu cans o the same with the yoke, either over-bore it and go with a thicker seal or weld it up and turn it back down.

Just remember to keep the grease zerk exposed --and use it often

Yeah that was basically my plan. Chop off the end, stick it in a lathe to get out the outer bushing and get/make a new sized bushing than re-weld it.

Talked to KHC today though and I'll be working with them to replace the arm. Also they said that they have seen this before and the reason it happens is that the arm has to be adjusted with the truck at ride height. I didn't drop the drive shaft so the only way to get the arm in there is with the back end fully extended. So Basically what you have to do is get the arm into the slip joint and drop the truck on the ground. Than set the adjustable point on the rear. So if you are like me and adjusted it with the back end in the air you need to go back and set it with the truck on the ground.

 

[smurfslayer]

I didn't drop the drive shaft so the only way to get the arm in there is with the back end fully extended

Negative Houston New York. You just have to possess grit and determination. I installed this in my driveway. It was a multi-pint affair for sure, but installed over a weekend, in the driveway, no lift, using common garage tools, and several pints of home brew. ... IPA if I recall correctly.

So Basically what you have to do is get the arm into the slip joint and drop the truck on the ground.

I don’t know what led you to this conclusion, but as I stated, I got this thing in without dropping the drive shaft or on a lift. So, hopefully that inoculates Lucille against this kind of wear.

I was going to drop the d/s, but at some point in the process I looked and said to myself : “F this, I can get this installed without dropping the driveshaft.”

Now, I know it took me longer, but how much longer is complicated by not using a lift and not dropping the d/s. I started early afternoon on a Friday getting the brake lines adjusted and cradles in place. Saturday I hit up the front end, got things secured in the rear. I even called them once or twice with questions.

I buttoned everything up Sunday AM, double checked clearances, connections, bolts, etc. Took it for a shake down run, checked again, then took it out in 2H and did some teenage hooligan $hit to try and get some wheel hop. I didn’t.

I crawled underneath Lucille last night and inspected, nothing like your front end at all and the explanation seems plausible to me. Everything is looking good on mine.

Good luck with the repair and please keep us posted.
And Merry Christmas. I know it sucks to have to repair a mod, but look at it this way, you’ll get to reinstall the mod and that is almost as satisfying ;-)

 

[lateralis]

Negative Houston New York. You just have to possess grit and determination. I installed this in my driveway. It was a multi-pint affair for sure, but installed over a weekend, in the driveway, no lift, using common garage tools, and several pints of home brew. ... IPA if I recall correctly.



I don’t know what led you to this conclusion, but as I stated, I got this thing in without dropping the drive shaft or on a lift. So, hopefully that inoculates Lucille against this kind of wear.

I was going to drop the d/s, but at some point in the process I looked and said to myself : “F this, I can get this installed without dropping the driveshaft.”

Now, I know it took me longer, but how much longer is complicated by not using a lift and not dropping the d/s. I started early afternoon on a Friday getting the brake lines adjusted and cradles in place. Saturday I hit up the front end, got things secured in the rear. I even called them once or twice with questions.

I buttoned everything up Sunday AM, double checked clearances, connections, bolts, etc. Took it for a shake down run, checked again, then took it out in 2H and did some teenage hooligan $hit to try and get some wheel hop. I didn’t.

I crawled underneath Lucille last night and inspected, nothing like your front end at all and the explanation seems plausible to me. Everything is looking good on mine.

Good luck with the repair and please keep us posted.
And Merry Christmas. I know it sucks to have to repair a mod, but look at it this way, you’ll get to reinstall the mod and that is almost as satisfying ;-)

I also installed mine in the drive way but I dropped the spare tire and jacked up the rear from the trailer hitch to get the space to slide the arm in above the drive shaft. I wasn't going to fight shoving in the arm on my back with that little of space. Its just that once you get the arm over the drive shaft you're supposed to drop the back end down to ride height (which I didn't know). Hopefully that makes sense. If you didn't jack up rear of the truck to get your arm in you should be good according to KHC.

I'm pretty sure mine got like that from romping around in the dirt and getting my rear end to fully extend. I can't see this happening on a street only truck, but hey I had fun beating mine up lol. Luckily once I get a replacement arm it will plop right in at about an hour of work maybe.

Merry Christmas to you all too!