IMPROVING OFF ROAD PERF via Suspension Mods - Which ones? How much? What do you get?

[BIRDMAN]

In response to the 37's I think the 3.0's are a better mod but not many guys are going to plop down 5gs right off the bat. The 37's are an inexpensive mod, especially if you sell the original tires. I'm at 25,000 miles with 37's and stock fenders. A better offroad ride, more clearance and 37's look like they belong. Not only that but you get rid of the crappy Ford spec tire compound that comes stock.

Street queen

 

[bstoner59]

Street queen

It's all about the looks!

 

[Wilson]

I put light's on so I could see vermets.

 

[Mil T]

I think the original question needs to be considered with all the various environment variables in mind like where you live, What the majority of off-roading you will be doing, What type of terrain you will be in, Will you be in the mountains, desert, both.
Then your driving technique needs to be considered. Are you a balls out no mercy driver or are you a moderate save the truck cruiser. Or are you a family guy that needs that truck on Monday for work.
Then there is obviously the money issue. Are you going to do the work yourself or have others do it. That's a big consideration when on a budget.
Modifying these trucks are not to be taken lightly when it comes to the money that can be spent. I built my truck with an all around use for off-roading as a goal. I drive all of the above and anything in between. I built my truck for that. I like to tour the back country but like my speed, dependability and ride and handling performance quality to be top notch. So with the all around truck in mind and not the try to stay up with Robby Gordon trophy truck idea, I built my truck that is dependable, smooth riding, good handling in what ever type of terrain and can get and shit on down the trail with out worries of breaking something. Yes I know anything can happen or break but you also can't build for that either. So the 4 criteria above are what I used for modifications. I live in Arizona in the mountains and I go to the Desert and we have lots of fast dirt roads. I go to Calif. to run with friends in the desert. I go to Colorado and Utah to run the rockies and mining and timber roads. And I pull a 20ft camping trailer. I will run what ever gets thrown at me unless it's just absolutely ridiculous. I don't have anything to prove.
My build in order:

Rear Bump Stop and springs. (Better ride in rear and insurance for bent frame and eliminate wheel hop in the rear)
Adjusted front to mid perch. (leveling of the truck with better handling characteristics.
and added tie-rods. ( I could see those as a weak point right off the bat if you hit one of those gotchas at 80+ mph They probably would not hold up. Safety issue for me and insurance of better quality and beefier part)

Drove it and found that for my needs I needed more suspension mods for type of ride and security of dependability that I wanted.

I went with Raptor specific tuned 3.0's front and rear. Better quality beefier Upper Control arms. 35 inch BFG KM2's on Method Double Standard wheels. (There's no other way to receive smoother, dependable, suspension that can take the beating than to replace with bigger, better technology. My belief is that it does not matter how much horsepower or power you have if the vehicle cannot handle the terrain. You can only go as fast as the suspension will allow you to go. The tires need to be able to put whatever abuse you can throw at it and still be something that works on the hiway for a smooth ride. The wheels were a must for the UCA modification which allows for better quality materials, beefier and dependability. They also help with handling and traction.)
Added security should always be considered so steering reservoir improvements with more oil capacity was added.
Improved air intake and exhaust were changed for performance mods to help keep up now with the suspension mods.

I have bedcage, extra HID lights, and other modifications that I feel were necessary but not for what this subject is about.

So I feel I am done with my truck at this point. I have a lot of other items that are modded for my personal use and I am now at the drive and fix what breaks stage. Total amount in my truck for suspension etc. about $12000. Truck is a 2010 with 5.4. In hindsight I kind or wish I had the 6.2 but not at the sacrifice of being able to have self control of my 1, 2 and 3 gear unlike the 6.2;s that are a little to quirky for my taste.

Sorry that was way to long but it is my take on this whole subject.
Mil T

 

[SUNSET]

I think the original question needs to be considered with all the various environment variables in mind like where you live, What the majority of off-roading you will be doing, What type of terrain you will be in, Will you be in the mountains, desert, both.
Then your driving technique needs to be considered. Are you a balls out no mercy driver or are you a moderate save the truck cruiser. Or are you a family guy that needs that truck on Monday for work.
Then there is obviously the money issue. Are you going to do the work yourself or have others do it. That's a big consideration when on a budget.
Modifying these trucks are not to be taken lightly when it comes to the money that can be spent. I built my truck with an all around use for off-roading as a goal. I drive all of the above and anything in between. I built my truck for that. I like to tour the back country but like my speed, dependability and ride and handling performance quality to be top notch. So with the all around truck in mind and not the try to stay up with Robby Gordon trophy truck idea, I built my truck that is dependable, smooth riding, good handling in what ever type of terrain and can get and shit on down the trail with out worries of breaking something. Yes I know anything can happen or break but you also can't build for that either. So the 4 criteria above are what I used for modifications. I live in Arizona in the mountains and I go to the Desert and we have lots of fast dirt roads. I go to Calif. to run with friends in the desert. I go to Colorado and Utah to run the rockies and mining and timber roads. And I pull a 20ft camping trailer. I will run what ever gets thrown at me unless it's just absolutely ridiculous. I don't have anything to prove.
My build in order:

Rear Bump Stop and springs. (Better ride in rear and insurance for bent frame and eliminate wheel hop in the rear)
Adjusted front to mid perch. (leveling of the truck with better handling characteristics.
and added tie-rods. ( I could see those as a weak point right off the bat if you hit one of those gotchas at 80+ mph They probably would not hold up. Safety issue for me and insurance of better quality and beefier part)

Drove it and found that for my needs I needed more suspension mods for type of ride and security of dependability that I wanted.

I went with Raptor specific tuned 3.0's front and rear. Better quality beefier Upper Control arms. 35 inch BFG KM2's on Method Double Standard wheels. (There's no other way to receive smoother, dependable, suspension that can take the beating than to replace with bigger, better technology. My belief is that it does not matter how much horsepower or power you have if the vehicle cannot handle the terrain. You can only go as fast as the suspension will allow you to go. The tires need to be able to put whatever abuse you can throw at it and still be something that works on the hiway for a smooth ride. The wheels were a must for the UCA modification which allows for better quality materials, beefier and dependability. They also help with handling and traction.)
Added security should always be considered so steering reservoir improvements with more oil capacity was added.
Improved air intake and exhaust were changed for performance mods to help keep up now with the suspension mods.

I have bedcage, extra HID lights, and other modifications that I feel were necessary but not for what this subject is about.

So I feel I am done with my truck at this point. I have a lot of other items that are modded for my personal use and I am now at the drive and fix what breaks stage. Total amount in my truck for suspension etc. about $12000. Truck is a 2010 with 5.4. In hindsight I kind or wish I had the 6.2 but not at the sacrifice of being able to have self control of my 1, 2 and 3 gear unlike the 6.2;s that are a little to quirky for my taste.

Sorry that was way to long but it is my take on this whole subject.
Mil T

Mil T....PERFECT.

This was exactly the info I was looking for!

 

[sabumaru]

IMPROVING OFF ROAD PERF via Suspension Mods - Which ones? How much? What do y...

My list :
Raptor : €65,000
Bumper Front : €5,000
Bumper Rear : €2,500
Sidestep : €2,000
Chaserack : €4,000
Suspension : €9,000
BumpStop/Frameprotection : €2,000
PaddleShift : €1,500
Powergrid upgrade : €1,500
Exhaustsytem : €2,000
ForcedInduction : €8,000
Wheels&Tires : €3,500
Steering : €1,000
CustomPaint : €5,000

Est. €115,000


Reason for this setup :
The netherlands doesn't have major deserts etc
So combination of forrest / medium speed offroad combined with high streetmilage.

 

[Netix]

Holy moly thats so overpriced !!! :0

 

[sabumaru]

Holy moly thats so overpriced !!! :0

Getting the truck here is expensive
Getting the parts over from the US takes a lot of shippingfees and taxes

Take off about 20% of customs taxes from all the parts
Don't even wanna tell u the car taxes


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[MotuMute]

Get a frame kit, drive your truck hard offroad every chance ya get (especially at FRF sponsored events), upgrade anything that breaks, check out why some guys can go faster, and put in some extra hours at work to keep adding mods until shit quits breaking