How To: Remove and Replace the Raptor Leaf Springs

[2014RubyRed]

Well the new springs are in, and I will say this: Those things are heavy! But, more to the point, Since I was on a lift and not limited to just jack stands, I loosened all the bolts for both sides at the same time. I removed and replaced one spring at a time that way the alignment of the axel was less affected.

Question just for anyone else who has already done this - Did you end up moving the passenger side parking brake cable above the driver side leaf springe vice underneath like with the stock springs?

- and what have you all used to cut the front spring bolt on the drivers side? I used a sawz-most on it and I wouldn't recommend that tool. Maybe a grinder with a 3" or larger diameter cutoff wheel would have been better?

Saws-all with a good metal blade is the best to use - a lot less sparks flying around making it hard to see. The trick is once it starts cutting, not to stop until it's all the way through. Cheaper blades do make it a bitch though!!! We have always left the parking brake cable under the spring like stock so there is no weird wear on the cable casing.....

 

[Raptoe13]

I couldn't make much of a dent with my reciprocating saw with a quality blade. I ended up using a pneumatic cut off wheel. I covered the the affected area the best I could with a FR work shirt just for safe measure.

 

[svt_reid]

I tried a sawzall. Ruined about three blades.. Then used a cutoff wheel... Exploded the disc.. Then used a hammer to beat the bolt head off lol

 

[Trucktreehouse]

I tried a sawzall. Ruined about three blades.. Then used a cutoff wheel... Exploded the disc.. Then used a hammer to beat the bolt head off lol

4 saws-most blades for me and then a BFH took care of the rest. I'm glad I don't have to do that again!

 

[Krab]

In the process of installing my deavers. The sawzall was kind of a pain to do with me going through about 7 blades or so. If the factory retainer plated don't have to be removed and reinstalled, I might just continue the install without them. I do have a svc bumpkit after all...

 

[svt_reid]

In the process of installing my deavers. The sawzall was kind of a pain to do with me going through about 7 blades or so. If the factory retainer plated don't have to be removed and reinstalled, I might just continue the install without them. I do have a svc bumpkit after all...

After I got done drilling it out to make it fit I was told I didn't have to do that. I don't think it really helps anything as the new u bolts slide through the strike plate which holds them in place. I guess it's up to the installers discretion

 

[2014RubyRed]

I guess I must just be lucky when it comes to cutting that bolt. I did change to a 12" blade last time, so I could move it up and down while cutting thus not concentrating all the force on one spot of the blade. Milwaukee brand blades work the best for us.....

 

[WRCRaptor]

When Wiz and I cut my bolts he used a cut off wheel on a grinder and made short order of those mean bolts! Overall it was an easy mod and springs are the first thing I should have done.

 

[just Mike]

Kind of stupid, but a few months after swapping to Denver +3's with camburg shackles, I feel like my ride is pretty jittery ovear road bumps. Almost nauseating at highway speeds on crappy I5. Any thoughts? Pretty sure my torque values were right, just didn't have a ton of grease for the bushings.

Off road performance has been good, just kind of concerned about the sharp road jolts.

 

[2014RubyRed]

Kind of stupid, but a few months after swapping to Denver +3's with camburg shackles, I feel like my ride is pretty jittery ovear road bumps. Almost nauseating at highway speeds on crappy I5. Any thoughts? Pretty sure my torque values were right, just didn't have a ton of grease for the bushings.

Off road performance has been good, just kind of concerned about the sharp road jolts.

How old are your shocks? Checked for any signs of leaking? Doesn't sound like a spring thing.....