GEN 2 Flat spot during acceleration.. ANY IDEAS??

[19RaptorPB]

My 2019 has 3,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I noticed kind of a flat spot during acceleration between 3000-4000 RPM. It doesn’t matter if I’m going east or laying into it. The turbo gauge shows boost but it’s almost as if it’s making the RPM with no power behind it. As soon as it gets to about 4000 RPM, I can feel it pull hard again. I thought it may just be a break-in thing but it’s hasn’t gotten any better (or worse) but it’s definitely there and it’s definitely annoying. Any help would be much appreciated!


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[dilmorecg]

From what Ive read break in is only 500 miles. I was watching stock dyno videos earlier today and they are showing the hp and torque curve really "starting" at 3700 rpms. Could be just how the engine power is. I haven't really noticed a flat spot in mine. Could also be timing when you start accelerating and the turbo lag you are feeling.

 

[19RaptorPB]

That’s definitely an idea but I just feel like it’s significant enough that if it was normal someone would chime in. You don’t notice anything at all between 3-4k?


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[smurfslayer]

is it traction/stability control?

If you’re really getting on it, 3-4k is a good spot for power; you should be showing good torque and a climbing hp curve. Buuuuut if you’re caning it pretty hard and breaking the tires loose even slightly, the truck is trying really hard to minimize spin, which is easy to accomplish on the K02’s. Even in 4a you’re getting some spin, even with full Nannies engaged. I don’t get this in a straight line, but, if I have my steering wheel cut for a turn and get on Lucille pretty good, I can make power cut just like course one in Raptor Assault - the pea gravel course. Only I’m on pavement. In fact, Just about the time I get the wheel unwrapped and straight, the power cut comes on
<sigh> I can use less or more judicious throttle and avoid it but I can make this happen. I suppose I ought to perform some of my own troubleshooting suggestions and whack T/C and try this same exercise.

In a similar vein, if your tire pressure is up near factory recommendations, the KO2’s are all too willing to spin, especially with an empty bed.

I can tell you that if you do have a power curve flat spot, you’re in for a tough time at probably more than one dealership to resolve it. it could be something simple but it sounds electronic. Almost certainly the first thing they’re going to try with you is ‘it’s not throwing codes, blah, blah’. leaky sun roofs don’t throw codes and the dealers fix them all day long. I’d suggest forgoing the initial run around visit and immediately ask to have the mechanic ride along with you to replicate the issue. Take them to lunch if you have to until they get it. Then maybe you have a fighting chance at someone trying to figure out what’s what.

 

[19RaptorPB]

is it traction/stability control?

If you’re really getting on it, 3-4k is a good spot for power; you should be showing good torque and a climbing hp curve. Buuuuut if you’re caning it pretty hard and breaking the tires loose even slightly, the truck is trying really hard to minimize spin, which is easy to accomplish on the K02’s. Even in 4a you’re getting some spin, even with full Nannies engaged. I don’t get this in a straight line, but, if I have my steering wheel cut for a turn and get on Lucille pretty good, I can make power cut just like course one in Raptor Assault - the pea gravel course. Only I’m on pavement. In fact, Just about the time I get the wheel unwrapped and straight, the power cut comes on
<sigh> I can use less or more judicious throttle and avoid it but I can make this happen. I suppose I ought to perform some of my own troubleshooting suggestions and whack T/C and try this same exercise.

In a similar vein, if your tire pressure is up near factory recommendations, the KO2’s are all too willing to spin, especially with an empty bed.

I can tell you that if you do have a power curve flat spot, you’re in for a tough time at probably more than one dealership to resolve it. it could be something simple but it sounds electronic. Almost certainly the first thing they’re going to try with you is ‘it’s not throwing codes, blah, blah’. leaky sun roofs don’t throw codes and the dealers fix them all day long. I’d suggest forgoing the initial run around visit and immediately ask to have the mechanic ride along with you to replicate the issue. Take them to lunch if you have to until they get it. Then maybe you have a fighting chance at someone trying to figure out what’s what.

Thank you for the reply. The problem is that it’s not just when I’m heavy on it. I can be driving under normal circumstances and it does the same thing, it’s just more pronounced when I’m into it. Definitely not the traction control. It seems to me like it is absolutely something electronic, I just don’t know where to start there... mass air flow sensor maybe? I also agree that the dealership is most likely going to say it’s fine blah blah blah. I was hoping to get some ideas to check before I went the dealership route. I’ve always found with dealerships that when I pinpoint the problem and do the troubleshooting for them, they actually fix the issue. I need to get to that point first.


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[rtmozingo]

Thank you for the reply. The problem is that it’s not just when I’m heavy on it. I can be driving under normal circumstances and it does the same thing, it’s just more pronounced when I’m into it. Definitely not the traction control. It seems to me like it is absolutely something electronic, I just don’t know where to start there... mass air flow sensor maybe? I also agree that the dealership is most likely going to say it’s fine blah blah blah. I was hoping to get some ideas to check before I went the dealership route. I’ve always found with dealerships that when I pinpoint the problem and do the troubleshooting for them, they actually fix the issue. I need to get to that point first.


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It really is probably the KO2s slipping. Their skid rating is pretty low, and they don't have that great of traction to begin with. The T/C light is easy to miss. What pressure you running?

A video would be really helpful. Ideally get the dash and part of the road, tho obviously get some help if at all possible.

 

[19RaptorPB]

It really is probably the KO2s slipping. Their skid rating is pretty low, and they don't have that great of traction to begin with. The T/C light is easy to miss. What pressure you running?

A video would be really helpful. Ideally get the dash and part of the road, tho obviously get some help if at all possible.

Thank you but I’m not running KO2s. I’m running Ridge Grapplers with 36PSI. It absolutely isn’t the T/C because it doesn’t only do it when I have my foot to the floor, it does it while driving normal as well. A video also won’t help because visually you won’t be able to recognize anything. The RPMs still climb normally, the turbo gauge is still showing boost and the exhaust is still producing normal escalating sound. It’s literally a flat spot in the pull. I’m very in tune with my vehicles and feel things most overlook. It’s not totally obvious to someone that doesn’t drive it every day but it’s sure as hell happening.


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[smurfslayer]

maybe try going into manual mode and see if this is 100% repeatable, successive pulls, etc.

disable t/c and stability control and repeat.

 

[GCATX]

Are your running 93 octane? Did someone else borrow your truck and put 87 in? One day I had to take my wife's truck to the dealer, she took the raptor and filled it with 87, cause she is cheap like that. Next day the truck seemed to have a real flat spot in the midrange, particularly on a hill close to the house, it seemed to fall flat on it's face, where normally it just zips right up. I felt it and asked her if she put "cheap" gas in, sure enough.

Anyway, just a thought.

Edit: I re-read your first post, been doing it since new. If you're not running 93 octane you are doing yourself a dis-service.

 

[rtmozingo]

Thank you but I’m not running KO2s. I’m running Ridge Grapplers with 36PSI. It absolutely isn’t the T/C because it doesn’t only do it when I have my foot to the floor, it does it while driving normal as well. A video also won’t help because visually you won’t be able to recognize anything. The RPMs still climb normally, the turbo gauge is still showing boost and the exhaust is still producing normal escalating sound. It’s literally a flat spot in the pull. I’m very in tune with my vehicles and feel things most overlook. It’s not totally obvious to someone that doesn’t drive it every day but it’s sure as hell happening.


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It would help because I could compare it to my footage to see if you indeed have a power loss. That said, the Ridge Grapplers are nearly 10lbs per tire heavier than the KO2s, which being unsprung weight significantly slows down the truck. I noticed a difference with my new tires only being up 2lbs each corner. I doubt it is the main issue here, but probably a contributing one.

I'm with smurf - unless you are running sport mode, 4A, t/c 'off', I'm inclined to think you aren't getting traction and the computer is compensating (something you've picked up on as well). Run a few times in that mode, then also try manual shifting and see what happens.

Your truck has a lot of torque and a very light back end. Those tires should help, but 36 psi is too high. You will definitely break loose in the back a lot more than you think. I have a supercab, but with both sets of tires running at 34psi in the back I was able to break them loose going straight.

It could also be, like dil mentioned, that your particular timing doesn't mesh well with the turbo lag and transmission shifting. Most of the delay I've noticed in my truck is the transmission having to drop 2-3 gears, which is generally in the RPM range you note as being problematic.