Different idle issue 2010 6.2L, driving me crazy

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Tm2525ai

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I have an idle issue (when warm, not cold and just at idle, drives fine otherwise) with my 2010 6.2L Raptor (bought new in 2010) and I spent about a month combing every idle issue in this and even other forums, no solution found. Here is my issue, which I am also having my dealer send to Ford as a priority ticket.

My Raptor has always idled beautifully and ‘steadily’.

I only have 43,800 miles on it (work from home).

However, this last oil and air filter change, the next day I drove it, it was hesitating and shifting very badly on a trip to the store and by the time I got home, it died backing up a slightly sloped driveway, sloped down in the front. It would not start at all.


At first, I thought maybe a bad oil filter, so I changed that, and nothing. Finally, I unplugged the Mass Airflow Sensor and it started right up and was able to back it into my garage.


Then, I could not find a part at Ford, so I bought an after-market part at AutoZone. That part worked, but there was clearly something very wrong. It idled very badly, not stead, and starting off and stopping you could hear the gears in both the transmission and rear end ‘thrashing/clashing’ constantly, not good.


So, I realized the part was not good, so I cleaned the original MAF with MAF cleaner and that seemed to at least let the truck run. It was clear the issue started with oil from the K&N air filter, so I also put a paper filter on. However, my Raptor no longer idles the way it always did.


Before this debacle, it idled a nice steady ‘Whaw whaw whaw’ always.


Now, it idles not only with random misses, but the pattern is more like ‘Whaw wuw wuw whaw whaw wuw, whah wuw wuw whaw whaw wuw’, again, with a bit of randomness, but clearly not right and misses and is rough. The idle is a change in pattern, not a change in rpm, though overall I think it idles around 50rpm lower than before and almost sounds like the timing is off from before, the sound from the exhaust is a bit lower tone, as well.


The dealer has reprogrammed the PCM or ECM MAF control and I also disconnected the battery and relearned and the idle is not as bad as initially, but it is clearly bad, wrong and not the same as it ever was.


I subsequently replaced the MAF sensor with a new one, I replaced the PCV and even the PVC valves. The PCV was chattering on and off, but replacing it with a new one it still chatters on and off and the idle stays bad when it’s chattering and when it is not.

I also changed oil again, just in case the oil was bad, but no change.

I am into this mess for over $700 so far and am no closer to solving the problem.

At this point, I suspect possibly the aftermarket MAF or something else changed timing and/or corrupted the ECM/PCM programs that control timing.


I took it to a Ford tuning shop, and they say it’s an electrical issue, not a mechanical issue.


I had it to the Ford dealer several times and on a scope, and they say they cannot see the misses, though they are clearly there, so I am not sure why they can’t see it. It might also be a vacuum issue, though I cannot find it. I really need this resolved asap.

I am possibly trading up for a Gen3, if they would only release pricing, build and reservation info :(
However, I want my Raptor running right, meanwhile!
 
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Tm2525ai

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I will search 'fuse 27', but I did check all fuses. Strange, though, because I had a crazy dream last night that someone stole a bunch of fuses and I woke up thinking that might be a sign to recheck them :)

It only idles oddly when warm, not cold.

I don't have any pics on this computer, but will put something up soon and thanks!
 

FordTechOne

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Does it have any DTCs setting? If you don't yet have ForScan, it is a cheap investment with a ton of capability.

The Fuse 27 issue is that the fuse can melt in the Battery Junction Box (BJB), which causes poor continuity through the terminals. The resulting voltage drop/intermittent open then causes the fuel pump to run poorly or not at all. If you remove F27 and it appears melted/burned, start with that.

Refer to the TSB here:

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2015/SB-10074713-7690.pdf
 
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Tm2525ai

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Thanks and thanks for the scan tool recc. There are no codes, thus why dealer can't seem to find the cause.

It starts fine and runs fine, just idles badly when warm.
 

CoronaRaptor

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Thanks and thanks for the scan tool recc. There are no codes, thus why dealer can't seem to find the cause.
Don't just pull the fuse 27 and look at it, but look down where it is placed, even then the wiring to it can be corroded, that's why Ford sells a relocation kit and it uses a different fuse location now. Its a cheap retrofit to do.
 
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Tm2525ai

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OK, thanks, was about to go look. I am an electronics engineer, so I understand, thanks again. Looks like I should also check the fuel sender connection near the tank, as well.
I did recently replace my battery, it actually corroded off the terminal, and the dealer never told me about it when I had it there for inspection, was not happy about that. I replaced the battery and put a new terminal on, but it idled great after all of that.
 
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Tm2525ai

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Hmm, that's interesting. There is 'pitting' on one of the fuse blades and perhaps some surface resistance on the terminals, but not much.

For now I should be able to clean them up and test it out.
 

pat247

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There is a procedure to make the PCM relearn the throttle plate position in the throttle body. Basically you disconnect the negative battery cable from the battery making sure the cable can't touch the negative battery post during this procedure. Then attach a small wire to the cable that you removed, attach the other end of the small wire to the positive battery cable and leave connected for one hour. This will release all capacitors that power memory chips and the PCM will have to relearn everything including shifts. After one hour remove small wire and reattach the negative battery cable to the battery and start the truck.
 
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