Check your 4x4 IWE system

[-J-]

2019 with 2300 miles and a bad 4x4 actuator solenoid. No noticeable symptoms but was unable to have an on car tire balance due to locked hubs.

if you’re un familiar with the system, it uses vacuum to disengage the auto hubs. The system defaults to 4x4 locked hubs without vacuum. This is to ensure 4x4 works in a bad situation, however if the system fails it fails in locked mode. This will cause wear and tear to the hubs when driving in dry 2wd conditions.

I tested my system by turning the truck on in 2wd, in drive, parking brake on. i then lifted one front wheel and turned it by hand. Sure enough my axle turned as well. I dont have a fancy vacuum pump to test my system so I followed my lines looking for cuts. I pulled the line off the hub and didnt have any vacuum present. Above the brake booster there is a solenoid to switch to vacuum or atmosphere. I pulled the line coming from the intake and attached it to the lines from the hub. Sure enough, the hub unlocked and axles did not spin. I put a piece of tubing on the solenoid and it wouldn't allow the vacuum to go to the hubs. I have a solenoid on order, if that doesnt work off to the dealer. Anyways the tire shop said these things fail pretty regularly and to keep an eye on it. I thought i would share my experience with everyone here, I would of never thought about it if the shop didnt say anything.

 

[NASSTY]

The check valve is more prone to fail than the solenoid, but you never know? I keep a spare check valve/hose assembly in my glove box.

 

[-J-]

The check valve is more prone to fail than the solenoid, but you never know? I keep a spare check valve/hose assembly in my glove box.

Thats the video I saw as well but mine seems to work. Solenoid was only 20$ on amazon. Cheaper than driving to the dealer to wait forever.

 

[DreadPirateRaptor]

https://www.rcvperformance.com/axle...GCdSPixwd2CpM-PAO32rFtEKmre0Gi-MaArCbEALw_wcB

 

[jabroni619]

If it ever fails locked simply switch to 4A and you won’t damage a thing while you drive around until it gets fixed.

 

[zombiekiller]

If it ever fails locked simply switch to 4A and you won’t damage a thing while you drive around until it gets fixed.

if it fails locked, the only thing 4A would do is send power to the front if the rear started slipping.

If the solenoid or check valve fails, then both iwes will be locked and thus will spin the front axles. if you leave the truck in 2wd, you don't run the risk of power being transferred via the tcase to the front of the truck. It will behave the same way that a truck with iwe eliminators behaves.

Thank solenoid impacts a lot of other systems if it fails, including the brakes. I found that out the hard way when mine fell off my truck around Guerrero *****, and I had to pump the brakes 4 times before they would start to grab. In a pinch, you can fold all of the vac lines over themselves and zip tie them shut to seal them and the brakes will be at about 80%, but the computer won't be able to vary the precharge until you replace the solenoid.

 

[jabroni619]

if it fails locked, the only thing 4A would do is send power to the front if the rear started slipping.

If the solenoid or check valve fails, then both iwes will be locked and thus will spin the front axles. if you leave the truck in 2wd, you don't run the risk of power being transferred via the tcase to the front of the truck. It will behave the same way that a truck with iwe eliminators behaves.

Thank solenoid impacts a lot of other systems if it fails, including the brakes. I found that out the hard way when mine fell off my truck around Guerrero *****, and I had to pump the brakes 4 times before they would start to grab. In a pinch, you can fold all of the vac lines over themselves and zip tie them shut to seal them and the brakes will be at about 80%, but the computer won't be able to vary the precharge until you replace the solenoid.

4A allows the slippage necessary to keep anything from binding. The front diff isn’t a locking diff even if the hubs are locked so no binding there. You’ll be just fine in 4A. In fact once you select 4A your hubs are locked anyway.

 

[zombiekiller]

4A allows the slippage necessary to keep anything from binding. The front diff isn’t a locking diff even if the hubs are locked so no binding there. You’ll be just fine in 4A. In fact once you select 4A your hubs are locked anyway.

but what good would switching to 4a do? If the solenoid or check valve fail, and you didnt want to be in 4wd, i dont understand why youd engage 4wd.

There wouldnt be any binding to avoid being that no power was being transmitted to the front differential anyway.

Essentially a failure of any part of the IWE vacuum system makes the truck behave just like it does when you remove the iwes and go to iwe eliminators.

 

[jabroni619]

but what good would switching to 4a do? If the solenoid or check valve fail, and you didnt want to be in 4wd, i dont understand why youd engage 4wd.

There wouldnt be any binding to avoid being that no power was being transmitted to the front differential anyway.

Essentially a failure of any part of the IWE vacuum system makes the truck behave just like it does when you remove the iwes and go to iwe eliminators.

You’re correct. I misspoke. I meant if the IWEs are grinding if it fully locks there’s no need to go to 4A.

 

[-J-]

Im not sure what some folks are saying here. The IWE system doesnt affect the transfer case of diff, just the hubs. They are either locked or unlocked. This just reduces wear and drag when in 2wd vs 4wd or Auto mode. There would be no benefit to put it in any mode if the IWE system fails. Ive see the IWE deletes but I prefer to be able to unlock the hubs for my 99% street driving style.

I dont think the actuator effects anything besides the IWE, its not directly attached to the brake booster so shouldn't affect That system. Mines completely unplugged as seen in the picture but worked just fine. I am just stuck in 2wd mode until my new actuator shows up.