GEN 2 Camburg Mid Travel With Live Valve

[John Rathjen]

Wow that's very cool!
I also saw where Evil is coming out with something too:
https://www.evilmanufacturing.com/suspension/evil-offroad-trailing-arms

 

[zombiekiller]

I dunno. My leaf spring ( sprung over) rear end cycles 21" as it sits, with the traction bars. ( without extended shackles or anything else) and sans new rear axle, you're there for 10ish.

I get that linked is linked and leafs are leafs, but for the 30K that kibbe is going to want for that kit with the bed rack, bypasses and coilovers, I'd pass.

I don't think you'd get the extra $20K of capability that you'd expect. you would get lots of squeaks and rattles though.

I also think that it is kind of weird that the frame side of the Panhard and upper link are on the same side of the truck. I'd think that ideally, you'd want opposing forces to stand the best chance of locating the axle properly. ( and to not have the truck handle in a really strange way)

 

[Pacific Wheel]

It is a lot of money but watching those trucks work in person is unreal. Whatever Kibbe is doing is working and it's working really well for short course kits with no cage.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2mm8kbg3p7/

 

[zombiekiller]

It is a lot of money but watching those trucks work in person is unreal. Whatever Kibbe is doing is working and it's working really well for short course kits with no cage.

https://www.instagram.com/p/B2mm8kbg3p7/

well, thats the other side of the conversation...

It is not the best idea to be hauling ass in a linked truck with no cage.

The truck becomes way too capable and the factory safety and restraint systems are not designed to make it so you can walk away after rolling the truck 5-6 times at the speeds folks tend to travel offroad.

 

[Pacific Wheel]

well, thats the other side of the conversation...

It is not the best idea to be hauling ass in a linked truck with no cage.

The truck becomes way too capable and the factory safety and restraint systems are not designed to make it so you can walk away after rolling the truck 5-6 times at the speeds folks tend to travel offroad.

I can agree with that. Some of the things I've seen that grey truck do definitely qualify for "cage needed"

 

[Fordraptorrrrrrrr]

I dunno. My leaf spring ( sprung over) rear end cycles 21" as it sits, with the traction bars. ( without extended shackles or anything else) and sans new rear axle, you're there for 10ish.

I get that linked is linked and leafs are leafs, but for the 30K that kibbe is going to want for that kit with the bed rack, bypasses and coilovers, I'd pass.

I don't think you'd get the extra $20K of capability that you'd expect. you would get lots of squeaks and rattles though.

I also think that it is kind of weird that the frame side of the Panhard and upper link are on the same side of the truck. I'd think that ideally, you'd want opposing forces to stand the best chance of locating the axle properly. ( and to not have the truck handle in a really strange way)

Its 7k as it sits, obviously that's not including labor or IBP c/o shocks and if you decide to run a new rear end. Even if it's an extra 15k for everything else plus that 7k for the kit you are looking at 22k, so I'm pretty sure it's not gonna be 30k unless you go ape shit with the add ons. This kit Kibbe doesnt run bypasses but that doesnt mean you cant use your own if they were the correct length.

 

[zombiekiller]

Its 7k as it sits, obviously that's not including labor or IBP c/o shocks and if you decide to run a new rear end. Even if it's an extra 15k for everything else plus that 7k for the kit you are looking at 22k, so I'm pretty sure it's not gonna be 30k unless you go ape shit with the add ons. This kit Kibbe doesnt run bypasses but that doesnt mean you cant use your own if they were the correct length.

i dont think youre seeing things clearly.

you cant run just a coilover if you actually want any semblance of control. All of the mid travel kits generally run the CO in full Open/Open and ALL of the tuning/control happens on the bypass.

The rear MUST have a bypass, especially if you plan to actually drive the truck at 7/10 or above.

SO, Tack whatever he wants for his bed cage, since others wont put the bypass in the right position. ( id guess 2200 in the "basic config" ).

Now add 4-5K for 4.0s with some tubes to twist.

And add a bump setup ( which again, you NEED), at probably another 1500-2000.

so 7K for the 3.5 link rear suspension, 2K Bedcage, 5K Bypasses, 1500 bump stops.

for the odds and ends like limit straps, brakelines, etc I'd tack another $500.

So We're at $16K.

For as capable, as the rear suspension will be, you HAVE to upgrade the rear axle. ( if I can blow up a stock raptor axle on leaf springs and 37s, you bet your booty you need a beefy rear axle).

If you want one that looks like what I have, $14K ish.

I'm at 30 by my math, without any labor, unforeseen needs, glass, etc.

and guess what, this is also something that needs tuning. The maintenance cost is much higher and there are a lot more things to maintain and/or break.

If you're building a short distance romper, have the aptitude to keep the thing running, or have a pro chase crew following you around, go for it!

I just don't think the juice is worth the squeeze.

for my $20K left over, I'm buying a full trophy truck y frame, suspension and rear links.


Then I'm throwing a vintage cab on it and building it out to hold up to baja runs.

 

[zombiekiller]

Wow that's very cool!
I also saw where Evil is coming out with something too:
https://www.evilmanufacturing.com/suspension/evil-offroad-trailing-arms

i cant say any more than im about to, BUT

Heading into sema 2020, gen 2 raptor owners will have 4-5 different options for trailing arm rear suspension. Most of the upcoming kits will make their debut at SEMA. ( a few will release prior)

 

[Fordraptorrrrrrrr]

i dont think youre seeing things clearly.

you cant run just a coilover if you actually want any semblance of control. All of the mid travel kits generally run the CO in full Open/Open and ALL of the tuning/control happens on the bypass.

The rear MUST have a bypass, especially if you plan to actually drive the truck at 7/10 or above.

SO, Tack whatever he wants for his bed cage, since others wont put the bypass in the right position. ( id guess 2200 in the "basic config" ).

Now add 4-5K for 4.0s with some tubes to twist.

And add a bump setup ( which again, you NEED), at probably another 1500-2000.

so 7K for the 3.5 link rear suspension, 2K Bedcage, 5K Bypasses, 1500 bump stops.

for the odds and ends like limit straps, brakelines, etc I'd tack another $500.

So We're at $16K.

For as capable, as the rear suspension will be, you HAVE to upgrade the rear axle. ( if I can blow up a stock raptor axle on leaf springs and 37s, you bet your booty you need a beefy rear axle).

If you want one that looks like what I have, $14K ish.

I'm at 30 by my math, without any labor, unforeseen needs, glass, etc.

and guess what, this is also something that needs tuning. The maintenance cost is much higher and there are a lot more things to maintain and/or break.

If you're building a short distance romper, have the aptitude to keep the thing running, or have a pro chase crew following you around, go for it!

I just don't think the juice is worth the squeeze.

for my $20K left over, I'm buying a full trophy truck y frame, suspension and rear links.


Then I'm throwing a vintage cab on it and building it out to hold up to baja runs.

False, you do not need a bypass in the rear.

 

[zombiekiller]

False, you do not need a bypass in the rear.

I'll tell you what, you go cruise barstow main in any linked truck. ( which will have both coilovers and bypasses)

If you dont think that you need bypasses to control the suspension travel on the rear, then by your logic, they should be cold.

go ahead and grab that king 4.5 shock body, since it should be cold.


In reality, you can fry bacon on them.


just because you "could" do it, doesn't mean that you'll be happy how it works. Those coilovers have nowhere near the effective friction surface, nor do they have effective pressure capabilities to control a 37" tire all day ( or even for 30 mins) in the dirt.

I have yet to see even a serious "play truck" merely running a Coilover on a rear short course setup.