GEN 2 Camburg Mid Travel With Live Valve

[zombiekiller]

I definitely want the +2 / +2 fenders for sure.

ZK how feasible would it be to custom make the spacers where the heim joints attach to the frame - instead of same length front to back, have them longer on one side than the other. 1/2" might be a little to much to ask though

you'd have to reshape the lower arm. well, at least on the SVC kit. The lower arm uses delrin bushings instead of heims. You could mess with spacers on the upper arms heims but any front-back adjustment that you make in the upper is going to throw off the caster since you can't move the lower arm rearward.

So, you're kinda stuck, unless you modify the shape of the lower arm, or move the mounting points.

I'd much rather make my own one-piece instead of all that engineering and metalwork.

 

[John Rathjen]

More info, prices, and options up on Camburg's site now

http://camburg.com/shop/suspension/camburg-ford-raptor-17-20-performance-long-travel-kit/

 

[Fordraptorrrrrrrr]

Looks like the price is actually not too bad. emailed Jerry and got the information below back from him.

Looks like total cost would be $6000 for first month (into price), then $7000. Need to buy bumps at $600, Coilovers at $3000 roughly, and bypasses at $2000 max. So total cost of $11,600. Fairly competitive then, and could be done in stages. They say 15-16in of travel, I wonder what it really cycles being only 1.5" wider, not 2" like SVC and 3" like RPG.

That price includes.

1) Upper and lower arms
2) 4340 axles
3) bypass shock mounts
4) relocation brackets
5) bumpstop setup (not including bumpstops)




Increased track-width 1.5″ per side (3″ wider total)
Front wheel position is pushed forward 1″ for added tire clearance at firewall to eliminate/minimize rubbing/trimming.
Designed for 37″ tires.
Boxed lower arms with 1″ uniball pivots at the frame. Tabbed for secondary bypass shock.
Bolt on aluminum skid plates for lower control arms.
Billet upper arm with 7/8 heims at the frame and a large 1.50 uniball at the spindle/knuckle.
17-4 stainless heim steering conversion outer tie rod that corrects bumpsteer geometry utilizing the factory inner tie rod for rack longevity.
Designed to use the OEM coilovers or 3.0 aftermarket coilovers
Designed to use a specific 3.5 bypass shock for increased bottoming control and progression.
Heat-treated 4340 extended length front axle shafts with new CV boot clamps.
Optional weld-on bypass frame mount.
Optional FOX 2.5 bump stop kit.
Designed to use aftermarket fiberglass front fenders (2-2.5″ flare). We recommend ADV, Fiberwerx or SDHQ.

You cant get 3.5" bypass shocks for $2k

 

[zombiekiller]

You cant get 3.5" bypass shocks for $2k

2K EACH.

 

[Fordraptorrrrrrrr]

2K EACH.

On Camburgs site it says $3580 for a pair of 3.5" bypass, you could get them cheaper or more expensive I'd imagine.

 

[John Rathjen]

ZK what would be a better setup for the rear - go with the Fox Factory aftermarket Live Valve internal bypass shocks, or get a bypass rack and put some 3.0, 3.5, or even 4.0 external bypass shocks in the back? Going this route you’d have to disconnect the whole live valve system. Would the external bypass shocks be so much better it would be worth it?

 

[zombiekiller]

ZK what would be a better setup for the rear - go with the Fox Factory aftermarket Live Valve internal bypass shocks, or get a bypass rack and put some 3.0, 3.5, or even 4.0 external bypass shocks in the back? Going this route you’d have to disconnect the whole live valve system. Would the external bypass shocks be so much better it would be worth it?

that all depends on what kind of driving you're planning to do and what else you use the truck for.

no matter what, the rear suspension will always have trouble keeping up with the front suspension, unless you link the truck.

If an ultimate desert smasher is your sole goal, bypass rack and big shocks ( I run 4.0s).

As for the front suspension, Id much rather run a traditional Coilover and a secondary bypass shock. you'll have more than twice the damping.

once the suspension is tuned, you wont regret it for a second, well maybe for a second after you have to pay to rebuild the shocks a couple of times because you drive the hell out of it constantly.

 

[John Rathjen]

Forgive my ignorance - by “link” do you mean a trailing arm type suspension?

 

[Fordraptorrrrrrrr]

Forgive my ignorance - by “link” do you mean a trailing arm type suspension?

Yes 3/4 link setup

 

[Pacific Wheel]

Speaking of 3/4 link setups Kibbe is now making a Raptor kit that keeps the OEM fuel tank with 20" of travel in the rear. The blue Colorado is owned by a good customer/friend of mine and that truck is insane with the 3 link setup

https://www.instagram.com/p/B5mALZ9A4Am/

"Gen 1 Raptor/ Gen 2 Raptor/ F150 Guys here’s your short course link kit! 20+ inches of rear travel and will work with Currie rear Raptor rear end or oem. Bolt in bedcage coming next."