Your Raptors Audio System

[slinger1]

its only my fault if im getting paid (and well if i might add)

Good point.....I see why it pays so well too....Alot of work and know how to do it right...especialy with todays headunits...Thanks again for all the info..getting that console all the way out sure made it easier....

 

[slinger1]

you dont have a picture of the blue wire you tapped into for remote power by chance.....i see alot of blue wires in the kick panel....is it in a bundle with some others that would make it easier to locate?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

black plug on top in the middle with the wires facing up. blue 14ga wire. the only other blue wire is 18ga in that harness. no pics right now. i will have to get one a bit later

 

[slinger1]

black plug on top in the middle with the wires facing up. blue 14ga wire. the only other blue wire is 18ga in that harness. no pics right now. i will have to get one a bit later

ty...i see it i think.....passenger side black with the flip release on plug....

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

yes

 

[slinger1]

Well....i forgot to run speaker wires for the rear doors to the factory harness under the console from my 2 ch. amp behind seat...Didnt even notice till i had the whole console back together....Think im just gunna run new wires from my amp to the rear doors and not use the factory wires...would be less trouble to remove the door panels than take the console out again.....I have the front doors wired to my 4ch. i mounted in the console and the fox box with 2 - 10s fits good but sits on the rubber floor matt that covers the back floor..may have to trim it just in front of box...Tomorrow will be the real test ..when i finish doing the rear doors and hook up subs ill install the fuse and see what happens.....Thanks again for all the info here....would have never got this far without it...

 

[slinger1]

What a differance that made.....everything works.....not gunna lie at first it sounded worse than the stock but after just 1 quick calibration with the ms8 it all sounds great....Just used the default settings for first cal. Still need to tweek the xovers but i can tell it will soon be back to the way it was in my old truck...I also see why it cost so much to have this done....Most people wouldnt even try to do it....when my wife saw 1/2 my truck apart sitting in garage she about @$%# her pants.....but it all went back together with little trouble......thanks again...

 

[slinger1]

couple pics of install.....

 

[1fastk]

I have a completely stock sony system in a 13screw and my front left tweeter has blown and I figured its time to upgrade to a better set. What tweeters do you recommend? I would like to keep from modifying the stock A pillar hole or at least as little as possible to mount the new set. Also if I take out the stock capacitors to the tweeters will I need to buy crossover module to protect the aftermarket tweeters?

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

I have a completely stock sony system in a 13screw and my front left tweeter has blown and I figured its time to upgrade to a better set. What tweeters do you recommend? I would like to keep from modifying the stock A pillar hole or at least as little as possible to mount the new set. Also if I take out the stock capacitors to the tweeters will I need to buy crossover module to protect the aftermarket tweeters?

i wouldnt use the oem caps with aftermarket speakers. if you look at the first couple posts of this thread, you will see the oem tweeters play to about 2k hz. aftermarket tweeters play generally at the 3k-3500hz. the oem cap allows too much lower frequency into an aftermarket tweeter. if you get a decent set of replacement speakers, use the crossovers for the tweeters. dont need to cross over the mid in the door though.