Tire Wear/Road Crowns

[B-C]

not cams - both sides look the same (doesn't appear to have any addons there)

No known bent items in front - Doesn't mean its not

Rear left side was hit really good Oct 2019 - however was repaired and tested for bent frame was ~20k in damage.



Real issue has been the darn shock mounts and spacers after installing rebuilt shocks..
spacer removal - incorrect - Monroe for F150 studs not long enough - grrr... my fault..

brackets not re-installed correctly a few times..
this is what it did look like when I pulled it apart...
shop had no clue... or rather - probably has more of a clue than me... but not much it looked like.



Getting the proper shock mount installed this week - and brackets correctly placed.
one on top of strut Body Mount external visible.
one on top of strut mount on the strut mount itself - hidden inside.


Still had spacers brackets and older parts - drift to the right was not an issue until I replaced the inner tie rods...

I think the original alignment was set in like your saying to compensate for some issue with all the modifications of the leveling kit or other damage unknown to me... bent ARM or something else is a good guess.

Currently bracket on top but thread not long enough to get more than 3 threads on thick side... inside bracket had to be removed to get that much thread on there.

 

[B E N]

"Still had spacers brackets and older parts - drift to the right was not an issue until I replaced the inner tie rods..."

That tells me the symptom is due to alignment. But your front end is a little bit of a mess. It will be good to get that all straightened out.

Looking at your alignment pic you have .2° caster more on the left side, and road crown is left to right so yes, it is going to pull right. That is in spec but it is incorrect. Finish fixing the front end problems then get it re aligned, you want 0.2-0.5° more on the right side than the left.

 

[B-C]

Impressed
you can see that from the Pictures?!?

 

[B E N]

I see the confusion

View attachment 151245

He posted alignment specs, you posted in the already running thread. Post your alignment specs and I will do the same voodoo, for the right person

 

[B-C]

Fair enough
Agreed my fault ...
I should do a new thread!
Still good info!

 

[B-C]

Ok...
See what you think other than image being HUGE...


Still going right ~2 deg it seems like

 

[Jakenbake]

Ok...
See what you think other than image being HUGE...
View attachment 315041

Still going right ~2 deg it seems like

What is the caster reading?

 

[B-C]

is the cast

Good call -

I went back mainly because it was no good..

Still is going right but less so.. now have a caster reading though..



Let go of the wheel on any road / freeway with little / no crown wheel turns right ~2 deg
road in this picture is actually holding it straight because the road has a left slant vs normal

 

[B E N]

Your caster looks good. Cross camber is backwards, should be about a quarter of a degree higher on the right than the left, that would cause some pull. I get the impression you may have worn parts that the alignment techs didn't diagnose.

To give you an idea of how much forgiveness there should be in alignment: I use a Longacre caster/camber kit and toe plates on my garage floor and my truck tracks perfectly. That is caveman technology, one step above a tape measure alignment. The guys doing your work are using a $100k hunter alignment system (based on the printout), on a specialized rack, they have a digital screen they can read while working; they should be able to get it right without any trouble. It is not an especially technical thing to get under there and move stuff until the screen reads what it is supposed to.

My guess is something is worn or something didn't get tightened down properly. I bet if you took the truck in and just had them do a check the alignment numbers would be different. Get someone competent to do a front end inspection, I am befuddled that an alignment shop wouldn't put your truck on a lift and check this, it is an easy sell point for parts and labor for them... They are throwing money out the door. Now because they failed to diagnose a problem they should have made money on in the first place they have to pull the truck back on the rack and dedicate a tech to it, at a cost to them.

Not sure how good my telepathic mechanic skills are, but if I had to guess I would say your left outer tie rod is shot, if you have a jack and inclination it is an easy thing to check.

 

[B-C]

Only thing that could be worn..
UCA, LCA

Everything else is new..
CV > out all new.
Hub timkin dorman iwe delete
Shocks replaced TSW rebuild, now on mid perch replaced shock mount and isolator yesterday AM