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Issues with 40" Rigid

Discussion in 'Rigid Industries LED Lighting' started by iSurvive, Apr 13, 2013.

  1. iSurvive

    iSurvive FRF Addict

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    I have a 40" Rigid LED I bought about 8 months ago. When installed the light, the last (4th) panel of LEDs would not light up. I moved it to another upfitter switch and then it worked.

    It will also not light up the last panel unless I have the motor running.

    Today I was at a car show and noticed my 40" lit up from left to right, first 2 panels, then the 3rd, and then the 4th. Now my 4th panel flickers. I've tried everything and it keep flickering.

    Can someone tell me if the light is defective or broken? Thx!
     
  2. justvettn

    justvettn FRF Addict

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    Make sure that you have it wired up with a 20 amp fuse, Rigid has told me that it may flicker on a 15 amp fuse. Check your connections both plug and wire crimps and that your ground is solid and tight and make sure all connections are dry. I put dielectric grease on mine.
    If you still have a problem call Rigid on monday morning and they will help you resolve this issue I am sure.
     
  3. pat'sRAPTOR

    pat'sRAPTOR FRF Addict

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    Also the reason it works with the truck on is the alternator is supplying the power! Yes it's led and it doesn't draw a lot of power but it is a big bar so it needs the right fuse and a bit of power so if you're still running a stock battery I'd look into changing it for something that has a little more juice like an optima red top! Thus what I have and it works great
     
  4. iSurvive

    iSurvive FRF Addict

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    Thanks guys! My big concern is that I'm about to install the 50". More draw on my battery! I will check everything ya'll mentioned. In think I will still replace the battery.

    Can you tell me which model fits the Raptor?
     
  5. Maxx2893

    Maxx2893 Rock and Roll Offroad Supporting Member

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    If you want the most powerful, go with the Odyssey or Diehard batteries.
     
  6. iSurvive

    iSurvive FRF Addict

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    OK, so I just changed out the fuse. It was running on a 15 amp fuse. I put in the 20 amp and not much improvement. I put in a 25 amp fuse and it worked for a few minutes, but then went back to flickering.

    I will check my wiring tomorrow.

    The Sears Diehard Platinum (930 cca) is $219.
     
  7. rasco

    rasco FRF Addict

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    Yeah, I have noticed that too.
    LED's have to have exactly the power they need to emit light.
    Running two 50's over the top of my truck called for using the stock switches that have relays, to just supply power to the harness that comes with the lights.
     
  8. The Car Stereo Company

    The Car Stereo Company aka nosbusa Supporting Vendor

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    working with the engine running. and flickering when the engine is off. it sounds like a battery issue. you might want to check the output of the alternator to make sure it is charging your battery sufficiently, and then check the battery to make sure it holds a charge. but if you can start your truck i would assume that the battery has enough power. try connecting the lights to another battery to see if they do the same.
     
  9. Battle Born

    Battle Born Full Access Member

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    Battery

    I am going to upgrade my alternator, and add a duel red top battery system, you may have to small a fuse, but in the long run, your asking your power plant to write a check it can't cash.
     
  10. iSurvive

    iSurvive FRF Addict

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    Thanks for the info. In this case it was a defective light, or went defective I should say. It got moisture inside the lens. Rigid fixed it under warranty. It works perfectly now.

    Since then I've added 4 Dually's, 2 D2 Driving, 2 SR-M2 Driving, and 2 SR-Q Spot. So 17 LED lights in total, from 50" to Dually's. I have considered upgrading my alternator and going with dual batteries. Right now I'm just running one Optima Yellow Top.
     

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