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jcl48

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Hi everyone:
I need some Help and Suggestions from anyone that knows about Suspensions on our trucks.
My Complete Suspension setup is the following:
● RPG Lower Control Arms
● RPG Upper Control Arms 1.5"
● RPG Steering Tie Rods
● RPG Frame Support and Fox Bump Stop Kit
● National Leaf Springs "Standard Duty"
● Fox 3.0s Front and Back

Current Issues:
1) I recently Installed all 4 Fox 3.0s I Have only driven the truck with them for about 2 to 3 weeks. At the time of Installation of all 4 Shocks I also installed the complete RPG front Suspension (LCAs, UCAs, and Tie Rods)
But the 4 Shocks NEW from Texas Motorworx, Great people to deal with 5☆ Customer Service.
I can hear some rattling sound from rear shocks (Still not sure if the sound comes from shocks or Leaf Springs) I assume rear shocks, since the only thing replaced on rear suspension were the shocks. We Torqued every bolt and nut according to SDHQ TORQUE Specs for our trucks. The rattling sound I can hear sounds something like "CLICK CLACK" and it only sounds when suspension is working (Compressing or Rebound) I climbed to the rear bumper and started bouncing up and down the rear end of the truck and succesfully replicated the sound I could hear when driving. Unfortunately when I crawled underneath the truck to check it nothing moved while wife replicated the sound succesfully. while I was down there found out what looks to be a very little leak from the Rear Right shock. Will check it again tomorrow morning since today was a rainy day and not sure if it was water or oil.
I also checked the front shocks and also found a little leak from the Left Front Shock, here is a Picture.
f0810856db85c793807541f20ab4661e.jpg


2) I think its time to either order new Leaf Springs or have them Rearched.
As of today I felt the ride very very Bumpy, even the Fox Bump Stops hitted the landing Pads when going over Speed Bumps at very very low speed(3 - 5 MPH), and could literary notice that the Bumpy part of the truck was in the rear. As soon as I got home noticed that the truck isTilted to the left. At first I thought maybe a flat tire even though I didn't get any alert from the TMPS, Checked tires and all were ok at 46-47 PSI. So I ran to my work shop grabbed a tape measurer and Measured all 4 corners from Center HUB to Bottom of Fender Flare; that confirmed about an inch or more of difference from Left to Right.
The approximate readings where the following:
Left Rear 25.5"
Right Rear 26.75"
Left Front 24.75"
Right Front 25.9"

Can anyone Suggest the best thing to do, and What might be causing all these issues???
Tomorrow morning I will take it to a friend shop that its specialty are Leaf Spring, so they can check them and unmount them to see if those can be fix and rearched.

Should I go with a new Set of Nationals HDs or the ones I have (SD) can be modified for them to be similar to the HD while also increasing my stance for about an Inch or so than Stock?
By the way which is the Rear Factory Stance on our trucks???
I have only had the Nationals and frame support with Bump Stops Installed for about a year and a Half now. Little Mild Off-Roading, have never jumped with it, the most high speed I have gone while off-roading through mountaineous terrain is about 45 - 55 MPH due to Huge Cliffs to the side.
5f830d5c29d977335e8216296c2f4427.jpg
 
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jcl48

jcl48

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ntm

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Springs are shot. My +3 nationals have lasted much better than most guys standards. Just not enough free arch on the standard +2's, they're running negative too much on compression, which directly effects spring life.

Your click, clack noise is likely just the bypass valves in the rear 3.0's, or your springs have shifted on their bushings and are rubbing the front spring mounts.
Mine do/have, and there's nothing you can do about it besides having them re crimped. I'd go with deavers if I could have a do over.
Personally, my fix will be coilovers and links !
 
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Raptor's lean and even more so if you have a full tank of gas? I noticed it more when going to 3.0's, perhaps due to softer suspension, dk.

I have a thread somewhere what factory rake measurements are.
 

rap67

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I had the clanking and clicking as well fox shocks are known to be noisy. As posted before I could be the by pass. If they're adjustable close the bay pass valves and if the clicking stops you ma have your answer.

I did this on mine and the noise stopped. Once i knew I reset the shocks where i wanted them a shot used to the noise.

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Madcowranch

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The front shock length is adjustable. Count how many threads you have showing on each side. Typically run a couple turns higher on driver side to offset gas tank and driver weight.
 

whoisbigman

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The front shock length is adjustable. Count how many threads you have showing on each side. Typically run a couple turns higher on driver side to offset gas tank and driver weight.

What he said... but, more importantly, new shocks shouldn't be leaking.

---------- Post added at 05:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------

... what size tires are those? Most tires are wider than BFG's and don't require as much pressure.
 

Mil T

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I currently have the exact same set up you have. I've had it on for a couple years. When I received the springs from RPG, National had made a mistake and sent the Standards. I was planning on pulling a small trailer and had order the HD's. I found out the first time I pulled the trailer. The springs had a negative arch and was to soft. It caused the back of the truck to squat way to much. I called RPG and they had me measure the top two leafs and that confirmed the Standards. They sent me out the HD's and that's what I've had since. The HD's make a world of difference. You can still use your standards as the only difference is the thickness of the top two leafs. and your buddy can make a new set to fix the problem I'm sure.
I made adjustments to my rear shocks for compression and rebound. I ignored the clicking noise. You can't hear it with the window up and music playing. You also need to make sure you are running the proper pressure for the nitrogen in the shocks. It calls for 200 lbs but that can also be adjusted to meet your needs and comfort.
You have a great set up. You just need to take care of the rear softness. Mine also leans to the left a little. It' seems to be from the gas tank and my 300 lbs. It will probably settle out better when you put the HD springs on and as suggested, adjust the left front shock a little.
 
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jcl48

jcl48

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Thanks to everyone that have helped me giving me their insights in the clicking Noise from the 3.0s and the different issues my springs might be having.
Wanted to give all an update:
Took new measurements in the morning before taking the leaf springs off
Left Rear 25.5"
Right Rear 26.75"
Went to the house of a friend to measure his Completely Stock Raptor Rear height and measured:
Left Rear 27 or at least almost 27
Right Rear 27

Headed straight to my buddy Shop and uninstalled the Springs to get them rearched. I told him that I wanted to get the rear height of my truck at 27.75" or at least 27.5" both sides that way he can take into account that the gas tank is at left side.
After that I called Texas Motorworx and they confirmed the clicking sound comes from the Bypass valves, also told them about the minimal leak at front left shock and sent the picture to them so they can exactly know what I was talking about. Will wait an answer if its an easy fix or if I would need to ship it to them.
3 hours later got a call from my buddy leaf spring Shop and springs were ready, will be installing them tomorrow. I am hoping everything its good now. One thing he mentioned to me when picking up the springs was that the strength on the springs material is very soft (41- 42 instead of at least 45 for the weight of our trucks) and that's why they worn out so quickly and sags alot when loading up our beds. In the other hand, he told me that the flexibility of my leafs was great for on and off-road. He pointed out that Strength on Springs doesn't interfere with its actual flexibility. In other words the better the stregth of the material the longer life on them.

I currently have the exact same set up you have. I've had it on for a couple years. When I received the springs from RPG, National had made a mistake and sent the Standards. I was planning on pulling a small trailer and had order the HD's. I found out the first time I pulled the trailer. The springs had a negative arch and was to soft. It caused the back of the truck to squat way to much. I called RPG and they had me measure the top two leafs and that confirmed the Standards. They sent me out the HD's and that's what I've had since. The HD's make a world of difference. You can still use your standards as the only difference is the thickness of the top two leafs. and your buddy can make a new set to fix the problem I'm sure.
I made adjustments to my rear shocks for compression and rebound. I ignored the clicking noise. You can't hear it with the window up and music playing. You also need to make sure you are running the proper pressure for the nitrogen in the shocks. It calls for 200 lbs but that can also be adjusted to meet your needs and comfort.
You have a great set up. You just need to take care of the rear softness. Mine also leans to the left a little. It' seems to be from the gas tank and my 300 lbs. It will probably settle out better when you put the HD springs on and as suggested, adjust the left front shock a little.
I am interested in converting my SDs into HDs. My Nationals SDs measures 5/16 thick all leafs, my friend shop has a good variety of thickness ranging from 3/8 thick all the way up for heavy duty applications (Industrial Construction equipment Vehicles)
Is there any chance you can get me the thickness and size of top two leafs?
What he said... but, more importantly, new shocks shouldn't be leaking.

---------- Post added at 05:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:33 PM ----------

... what size tires are those? Most tires are wider than BFG's and don't require as much pressure.
Toyo Open Country R/T 35"x12.5xR20
 
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