Badgertits
FRF Addict
Plenty safe doesn’t even address the tranny....that being said why bother blowing warranty & spending $$$$ on 1/2 a tune?
Tune alone from a legit reputable shop shouldn’t cause 1 issue, period.
COBB tuning Raptor tune
- Thread starter Gsteve
- Start date
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Tune alone from a legit reputable shop shouldn’t cause 1 issue, period.
Badgertits
FRF Addict
No matter how you slice it- once you add a CAI, ******** giant FMIC sandwiching/restricting radiator, or SPD turbo adapters, or downpipes, or catch can- all of em immediately visually inarguably are warranty voiders in the dealers/fords eyes yet none of those mods tangibly add power/performance w/o a tune....soooo may as well get tuned no? Better off w/ a tune you can “remove” vs. those other mods all together that may add 1/5 the power combined & wave a red flag asking to void warranty vs tune alone.
HOLESHOT
Full Access Member
Just had custom cobb Tune and garret intercooler and cobb intake
element217
Full Access Member
So baseline - initial off the shelf tune and then final? Well done.
NHDude4
Full Access Member
Question about dealer servicing for those who haven't done intercoolers etc that make it obvious...
Are you leaving it tuned, flashing to simulated stock, or uninstalling when servicing at a dealer?
Are you leaving it tuned, flashing to simulated stock, or uninstalling when servicing at a dealer?
I just go tuned
Badgertits
FRF Addict
I’m confused. What do you mean you got a “custom cobb tune” - that doesn’t make sense to me. If it’s a cobb tune by definition it’s not custom. But you have a dyno sheet from a speed shop in VA- do you mean you had a speed shop do a custom dyno tune on your truck then loaded onto a cobb accessport?
Or did you just load a cobb handheld tune & then go see what the dyno #s were before & after? Again- confused. If there was a shop nearby me willing to do custom dyno tuning for me I wouldn’t have bothered w/ a can-o-tune from gearhead, MPT, cobb, livernois any of em.
Tuning requires some sort of software and hardware interface to get the job done. The COBB AP is the hardware intermediary in this instance. He got a Pro-Tune (custom tune) from a tuner that owns a COBB Tuning license and software. So they did the tune with the COBB software and loaded it onto the AP as another map. So yes it is a custom COBB tune because it utilizes the COBB AP and is not a OTS map provided by COBB. In the Subaru community it's usually just referred to as being Pro-tuned.
Other shops MAY be able to tune your truck via a Tatrix cable if there is software for it, but usually it is extremely limited on what the tuner can do. Also you do not have the ability to swap maps on the fly. In example: I'm driving across country with a tune for 93 octane and I'm running low on gas. Gas station I pull up to only has 91 octane. Hook up the COBB AP and swap your map to the 91 octane map and you're good to go. If you had a tune with no flashing unit on hand/laptop with you or whatever you are screwed.
Tuning isn't cheep. A lot of tunes that are provided with some sort of flashing unit are meant to slightly bump performance while keeping the engine safe. You can't expect companies to provide a map as a 1 map to rule them all since no 2 engines act exactly the same. This is were you go and get your custom tune done for the mods you have and how your engine specifically acts. OTS maps are honestly just a stop gap until you get a custom tune. So if you want to play, you gotta pay.
In my opinion if you are going to tune your Raptor (Or any other vehicle for that matter), you had better have the ability to change your fuel maps on the fly and have safe fuel maps provided. The COBB AP is nice because it makes it super simple. Plug it in, change it, and you are on your way. No fussing with a laptop and they come pre-loaded with the basic fuel maps you need to keep the engine safe.
Badgertits
FRF Addict
Nah I get all that - you answered my question basically, scenario was the poster’s truck got custom tuned by a shop utilizing cobb’s Software & hardware platform, so he can take the AP w/ him wherever & switch between different files & back to stock. Got it.
I’m already gearhead tuned w/ an SCT handheld...I keep the handheld in the glove compartment strictly as a precautionary measure in case I get some major drivetrain failure & need to get towed/bring to dealer & wanna revert to stock. Don’t have to worry bout octane/bad gas w/ GH tune.
Majority of my experience tuning/modding vehicles is w/ actual custom dyno tuning proprietary to the shop (GM vehicles) using HP tuners or EFI live I guess. Scenario where you bring vehicle to shop they do multiple dyno runs get it in the ballpark, then drive on street for a number of miles/scenarios data logging w/ laptop hooked up, then back on dyno for final tuning tweaks. That’s how my Z06 is tuned, & in my mind that’s a “custom” tune.
I guess what this poster is doing is basically the same- except utilizing cobb software vs HP tuners & being able to store maps - including stock- on a device for changes on the run. Def good to have for a DD like a raptor, now that I think of it would be useless for my vette has too much crap done to it anyhow wouldn’t even startup if it were on a stock file lol, wouldn’t run on anything but 93+ either
Reminds me how “old school” it’s becoming lol
NHDude4
Full Access Member
Did a little 0-60 testing.
I have my Raptor loaded with the Stage 1 93oct OTS map and the Cobb TCM OEM+ map. Testing was at 1000ft at 45'F. Road was level but damp. With a half tank (36gal tank) and about 100lbs total cargo my best run was 5.33sec 0-60 and a 60ft time of 2.13sec. I had it in Sport Mode in 4A and brake boosted. I couldn't feel any wheel slip in 4A so I don't think the damp road mattered, but I'll test again on dry and update if I get anything different.
Based on testing with a 250lb passenger (5.6sec 0-60) I would say with no cargo and a nearly empty tank a perfect run could be 5.0sec on the street. On a prepped surface in 2H it might go faster because I'm sure there are losses in 4A, but it will spin on the street in 2H.
Anyone else do testing and see better results? What did you do differently?
I have my Raptor loaded with the Stage 1 93oct OTS map and the Cobb TCM OEM+ map. Testing was at 1000ft at 45'F. Road was level but damp. With a half tank (36gal tank) and about 100lbs total cargo my best run was 5.33sec 0-60 and a 60ft time of 2.13sec. I had it in Sport Mode in 4A and brake boosted. I couldn't feel any wheel slip in 4A so I don't think the damp road mattered, but I'll test again on dry and update if I get anything different.
Based on testing with a 250lb passenger (5.6sec 0-60) I would say with no cargo and a nearly empty tank a perfect run could be 5.0sec on the street. On a prepped surface in 2H it might go faster because I'm sure there are losses in 4A, but it will spin on the street in 2H.
Anyone else do testing and see better results? What did you do differently?
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