Anyone got a write up for fox 3.0 coil over installation?

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bigrig

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I ran into the same issue when I installed mine. I uninstalled the shock and moved the ring to where it should be and reinstalled it. I am not sure how you would get an allen wrench back there even if you loosen the three bolts on top, but if you are able to loosen it I think using the fox wrench with lube like Huck says should work fine. I found using some coil compressors made the job much easier though.

I also made the mistake of driving around without remembering to tighten one of the pinch bolts while testing ride height. This ultimately made the preload ring become misaligned and impossible to turn. @FordraptorHero could this be what is causing your problem? I had to uninstall the shock, fix (realign) the preload ring and reinstall it (talk about a harsh lesson learned).
 
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FordraptorHero

FordraptorHero

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yeah this is my problem but i bought mine used so possibly the past owner did it and didnt mention it ill try what you are saying though and yeah its impossible to turn even with a pry bar
my allen bolt stripped from me trying too hard to tighten the collar back down not sure where i can get another bolt for it
edit: im rough on shit
 
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bigrig

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yeah this is my problem but i bought mine used so possibly the past owner did it and didnt mention it ill try what you are saying though and yeah its impossible to turn even with a pry bar
my allen bolt stripped from me trying too hard to tighten the collar back down not sure where i can get another bolt for it
edit: im rough on shit

Not sure this will help but here is what I did to get the ring back into position.

  1. I uninstalled the shock from the truck.
  2. I attached coil compressors to take the tension off the ring.
  3. I loosened the allen all the way out of the ring. In your case you may have to resort to some sort of screw extractor, but then again if you use a slightly larger allen after you have taken the tension off the ring, you might find it comes out easier.
  4. I then used two trigger clamps on either side of the ring to pinch it upwards; Applying pressure to the ring so that it was pulling it up towards the top of the shock.
  5. I used snap ring pliers to open up the gap in the ring. Once I got the gap big enough or gave the ring enough freedom from the threads to move, the ring popped up to the top of the shock and aligned itself to the threads again.

It is important to note that care should be used when using coil compressors since there is a lot of pressure behind them when in use.

I can't say this will definitely fix your problem since this approach is pretty hacktastic, but it worked for me. I can totally empathize with you, I thought I had just made a $2,500 mistake, my heart sank into my colon and I didn't know what to do. It felt like the darkest hour. But give yourself some time to regroup and find the solution that is waiting for you.

For reference here is some pics of the tools I used...

Coil compressor:
65550nopkghr.jpg

Trigger clamps:
038548054629.jpg

Snap Ring Pliers:
025582566614.jpg

Good luck!
 
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Curious what is your measurement from the top inside fender to the ground (considering 35’s and stock fenders)?
Mine is around 40”.

How many threads are showing above the adjustment collar?
 

bigrig

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Curious what is your measurement from the top inside fender to the ground (considering 35’s and stock fenders)?
Mine is around 40”.

How many threads are showing above the adjustment collar?

I have 7 threads showing above the ring. The measurement from the top of a stock fender to the ground, with 35x12.5r17 BFG KO2 ATs, stock wheels is about 42"

I think the response that will be most agreed upon is: start with the shock compressed 50% when under load. Then move up from there.

It feels a little little higher than my Geiser springs at mid-perch. I believe it was 43" right after the install but the spring seems to have settled in a bit since then. I have been wheeling with them twice and so far I haven't felt any binding in the front wheel drive. Time will tell if I am stressing the front CV joints though.

That reminds me, Rick can you get any good deals on the RCV front axles? :)
 

bigrig

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Following up here regarding the torque multiplier...

I decided to go with the Forged Offroad Lower Front Shock Bolt. After the discussion we had in this thread about the error introduced by the torque multiplier I also decided to break down and buy a torque wrench that could manage the 406ft/lbs required of the bolt.

Swapping out the bolts seemed like a good opportunity to test the difference between the torque multiplier combined with my smaller torque wrench and the new torque wrench.

I first torqued down the bolt using the torque multiplier and my smaller torque wrench. I then went back with the new torque wrench. It was tough to say for sure, but I think when I used the new torque wrench, the nut turned about 1 degree more before the wrench clicked. It was really close but given that the new wrench was a little over $200, I think it is a good deal for the money and the more precise way to go. Also, having a 4 foot torque wrench in the arsenal is pretty sweet.
 
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illias

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Hello Everyone! I just upgraded my front shocks on 2013 Raptor to Fox 3.0 internal coilover bypass shocks but the bottom base of the shock looks too close to Axle shaft and I feel like its rubbing sometimes when I hit a bump or pothole. There is barely any space between the base of the shock and the axle shaft. Any suggestion how to fix this?
 

bigrig

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Hello Everyone! I just upgraded my front shocks on 2013 Raptor to Fox 3.0 internal coilover bypass shocks but the bottom base of the shock looks too close to Axle shaft and I feel like its rubbing sometimes when I hit a bump or pothole. There is barely any space between the base of the shock and the axle shaft. Any suggestion how to fix this?


Can you send pictures of the axle and shock? Pics around the shock to lower control arm and the top of the shock at the bucket would be helpful. Also if you have a pic of the wear that is happening that would be helpful too.
 
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