Adding aftermarket amp/sub

[BIRDMAN]

Is there any way to tap off the speaker lines going to the factory sub that would provide a quality signal to an aftermarket amp? Also, any thoughts on hooking up a remote turn on wire?

 

[ThugHunter]

You can tap into your rear speakers with a pair of rca's. Basically all you do is cut off one end of the rca's and connect the cut end (positive and negative) into your rear 5x8"s. Then run your rca's to the amp inputs. You may suffer sound quality a bit, but I couldn't tell when I did my last install like this. If you have a good quality amp (I had a JL 500/1), your quality will not suffer as much as if you use some crappy brand amp.

As far as the remote turn on wire, I'm not familiar with the Raptor yet since mine is on order. But you should be able to contact any stereo shop and find out which wire to splice into.

 

[BIRDMAN]

You can tap into your rear speakers with a pair of rca's. Basically all you do is cut off one end of the rca's and connect the cut end (positive and negative) into your rear 5x8"s. Then run your rca's to the amp inputs. You may suffer sound quality a bit, but I couldn't tell when I did my last install like this. If you have a good quality amp (I had a JL 500/1), your quality will not suffer as much as if you use some crappy brand amp.

As far as the remote turn on wire, I'm not familiar with the Raptor yet since mine is on order. But you should be able to contact any stereo shop and find out which wire to splice into.

Yeah I don't really want to use the speaker wire method mainly because I don't feel like removing the door panel, i just want to know if the signal going to the sub would be usable. still stumped on the remote + wire myself.

 

[ThugHunter]

You should be able to use the sub input wires in the same manner. And if you used the door speakers, you would have to remove the door panel, you would just have to find the wires along the front doors and tap in there. Are you looking to replace you sub and amp with aftermarket? Should be relatively easy to do. If you don't have it figured out by time I get mine, I'll let you know as I plan on adding an aftermarket amp and sub as one of the first mods.

 

[jdowens1]

For your remote wire you would want pin 2 its blue wire 18ga it will turn the amp on with the stereo and shut off with rest of audio system. Another option would be hook into upfitter if you wanted to then you could turn your amp on and off as you please. Something like in this link will allow you to hook up RCA's to factory amp

Scosche SLC4 Four-channel line output converter at Crutchfield.com

I have always ran them behind the stereo so no door panel is removed and your not trying to fish wires between the door and vehicle isself then run all wires together under carpet or door jamb. Just my preference though.

 

[Batman]

I hooked up a amp in a stock tundra. I used the high input/output for going from the speakers to the amp. I taped into the wires in the door pillar in between the doors. Just find the wires some where running in the cab. I forgot these badass connectors I used. I will find them on crutchfield and let you know. I just ran the remote wire to the fuse panel and taped into the acc fuse. It is a total PIA to take a stock radio out of a tundra.

 

[Crabtreepaw]

Ok so i am not sure how the rear of the headunit looks but for any application this is how i would approach it.

Since changing the headunit and all of the gps functions would be to much of a hassle than anything keeping your headunit/brain is ideal.

Best buy and other places like this even flea markets
Random website but you get the basic idea of what it is.
Massive Audio :: OEM Integration :: Hi-Low Converter

this will go inline with your speakers. if you have the rear woofer which i am sure you do you should be able to splice off of that. If you use splice clamps (offical name???) you shouldn't mess with any of your quality. Especially if you clamp off of your rear speakers you will most likely over power your speakers with bass.

You will still want to run a power wire. If you are not plannin on running to much power you could use one of the pre wires for the aux switches but i would recommend upgrading to atleast a 4 guage wire. Then you will need a ground. And remote. Many times i run the remote from the cig lighter. I am not sure if the cig lighter is on at all times, but the next best thing would be one of the aux lines bc they won't work without the keys in.

Dunno if thats the answer you wanted to hear but that is the way i would do a stereo in the raptor, which one day ours may see a few jl 10's. to early to tell and i need to sell my other vehicle before i go into that route.

 

[Raptor Retrofit]

Get the Infinity Baselink II it has a remote volume included.

 

[KingOfTheGeeks]

If it is setup anything like my 09 it was extremely simple.

Cut the plug to the sub, solder it into an RCA plug and viola, you have low level signal.

Since the amplifier recieves a low level signal already there is no need to convert it, simply change it to a connection you can use with an aftermarket amplifier.

I still ran an 8 guage wire from the battery however as i did not trust the 12 guage(if i remember correctly) that was supplied by the factory amplifier plug.

There also was no remote lead, so i had to run one from the fuse panel switched power source.

It can be done, but getting the signal is actually the easiest part !

 

[BIRDMAN]

If it is setup anything like my 09 it was extremely simple.

Cut the plug to the sub, solder it into an RCA plug and viola, you have low level signal.

Since the amplifier recieves a low level signal already there is no need to convert it, simply change it to a connection you can use with an aftermarket amplifier.

I still ran an 8 guage wire from the battery however as i did not trust the 12 guage(if i remember correctly) that was supplied by the factory amplifier plug.

There also was no remote lead, so i had to run one from the fuse panel switched power source.

It can be done, but getting the signal is actually the easiest part !

Ok, so that's what I needed to know. The signal coming in to the sub is not amplified? It's a sub/amp combo and it's just a low level signal coming in to the sub? I thought maybe the amp was elsewhere and it had speaker leads running to it.