Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Build-Up Forum' started by zombiekiller, Mar 12, 2018.
yes. they are the same KR3s that you see on TTs.
I'm 2wd now too, so I don't have to worry about the CV angles or anything. I didn't measure the travel without the axleshafts in it, but I can tell you that when the guys at the shop were looking at everything, at full droop i was about .5 degrees from binding the CVs. Now that they're gone, it might be cycling more.
Last I measured, I'm cycling right around 21" in the rear with the traction bars.
Awesome truck man!
How big of a job is it to remove the front diff and convert your truck to 2WD?
Pull the front driveshaft, pull the axle shafts, drop the 3rd member, replace hubs with f-150 2wd hubs.
takes less effort than pulling the front axleshafts and replacing the cv boots.
Did you ever have any mechanical problems with your front diff?
You feel that you have enough power to get through whatever you need to just being in 2WD?
Well, To maintain as much pinion strength as possible in the dinky little 8.8, I stuck with 4.56 gears front and rear.
That put me in a position where I really have to be into boost to get the rear end to step out the way that I want.
The problem with that is the boost isn't linear, it ramps quickly. That means the amount of control that you have when it comes to sideways traction is limited.
It also means that in tight technical sections, with the 40s, I'm either banging off the limiter in 2nd, or bogging 3rd.
That being said, now that I've decided to give 2wd a real chance, I ordered some 5.14 10" gears for the rear end (Currie f9) to get me more controllable wheel speed, more predictable traction and hopefully the right RPM/torque combo to not be in between gears.
So while I didn't have "problems" with the front differential per say, it caused me to make gearing choices that I otherwise would not have.
I think that 550-600 horse ( depending on the tune ) is plenty to keep the ol girl moving. 6100s are putting out 525hp with the hot cams while running 40s. I also don't know too many Pro TT drivers that run much more than 600-700 hp on their prerunners.
But at the end of the day, I guess we'll see!
Once I get the ratio changed, the plan is to do a bunch of shock tuning to get the truck dialed. If I'm happy with how she's handling, then I'll just go with it.
The last two major mechanical upgrades that I'm planning on are a full interior cage, and potentially swingset steering. Everything else that I have planned is cosmetic...
at least until I pop the motor, or have any additional issues with the drivetrain.
I've read a few posts from you stating that you could've purchased a dedicated purpose built prerunner for the money you have in your raptor. Lets imagine you were to do it all over again, starting from scratch, if you had your dedicated prerunner, how would you change the setup to your raptor?
Tangent: do you have any pics of how you mounted your TK790? both the base and the head unit
Going to tie the interior cage to the bed rack?
If I had built a purpose-built prerunner, I would not have bought my raptor.
doing it over again, if I'm honest, coilover/bypass, stock width ( i.e.- camburg or add lower arms), a bypass rack in the back with 3.5s, 37s, +2 glass, currie f9 rear with an arb, alcon brakes, bumpers, skids and let's roll.
I switched to an NX-5700 in my raptor. I have it attached to the rear cab wall. BUT, builtright now does a mounting bracket that bolts in where the factory scissor jack mounts. I'd just buy that and mount the radio to it.
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