GEN 2 Question About the Dreaded Cam Phaser Rattle

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KomodoDragin

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So I know this topic has been discussed at length but my symptoms are a little different. On my 2017 it doesn’t happen at startup or at idle. It is after it warms up and while maintaining speed. Usually in 9th or 10th gear and between 1000-2000 RPM. I’ll be calmly going down the road, again, maintaining speed and the rattle will start up. No noticeable shuddering or loss of power. If I take my foot off the accelerator the rattle immediately stops. If I depress the accelerator, the transmission gears down and the rattle immediately stops when the RPMs increase.

Has anyone else had these symptoms? Any searching I do for a 3.5 EcoBoost rattle returns the frequently discussed cold start rattle.
 

FordTechOne

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So I know this topic has been discussed at length but my symptoms are a little different. On my 2017 it doesn’t happen at startup or at idle. It is after it warms up and while maintaining speed. Usually in 9th or 10th gear and between 1000-2000 RPM. I’ll be calmly going down the road, again, maintaining speed and the rattle will start up. No noticeable shuddering or loss of power. If I take my foot off the accelerator the rattle immediately stops. If I depress the accelerator, the transmission gears down and the rattle immediately stops when the RPMs increase.

Has anyone else had these symptoms? Any searching I do for a 3.5 EcoBoost rattle returns the frequently discussed cold start rattle.
Sounds more like an IWE issue. Try switching to 4A and see if it stops.
 

jeanco

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The IWE is short for Integrated Wheel End. This is a system that uses a vacuum to lock the hubs when you engage different drive modes on your truck
Here's how it works: When a vehicle is in two-wheel drive, the IWE system disengages the front wheel hubs, allowing the front wheels to spin freely without any power being transmitted to them. Comparatively, when the system is shifted into four-wheel drive mode, the IWE system engages the front wheel hub
 
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KomodoDragin

KomodoDragin

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Thanks for the info guys! I’ve done some digging on the IWE system and it sounds like you’re right. Today I will try switching to 4A when it happens to see if it goes away.
 

smurfslayer

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Leave the truck in 4a to prevent further damage. The ubiquitous failure is the solenoid right by the brake reservoir. It’s less than 10 bucks last I checked. if that fixes it you’re golden but, if that doesn’t fix it, there’s possibly some additional parts to swap.
 
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