Question #16: Best way to protect your Raptor outdoors in Winter?

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911 Crazy

911 Crazy

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“This is a cross, bluegrass... northern California sensimilla. The amazing stuff about this is that you can play 36 holes on it in the afternoon, take it home and just get stoned to the bejesus belt that night on this stuff.”

Pipe down Carl. We have a pool out back and a pond, the pond would be good for you.
 

Bowser

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I guess I always assumed you had a 911(i.e. "911 Crazy"). Curious if it was replaced with the Shelby as I often contemplate this exchange myself.
 
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911 Crazy

911 Crazy

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I guess I always assumed you had a 911(i.e. "911 Crazy"). Curious if it was replaced with the Shelby as I often contemplate this exchange myself.

I have a 98' 993 Cab with 36k miles and a 86' 944T with 42k miles. Don't have the Shelby yet but would probably sell the 944 to make room. The last year of air cooled 911's is just too valuable.
 

CoronaRaptor

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I have a 98' 993 Cab with 36k miles and a 86' 944T with 42k miles. Don't have the Shelby yet but would probably sell the 944 to make room. The last year of air cooled 911's is just too valuable.
Can we get back on subject here? How are we going to protect 911crazy's Prius this winter?
prius-car-buried-in-a-snow-pile-C2MTAJ.jpg
 

BangBang

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911 Crazy and has a 944, WHAAAAAAAAAAT? How about a name change 944 crazy
 

Badgertits

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Here’s what I have done- Xpel film on partial hood/front fenders/grill surround/black window pillars.

In dry stretch of August when new I got underneath the truck used a wire brush wherever I saw any sign of rust on frame (basically nothing at that point) & hit up the rear diff/axles/leafs & U bolts w/ 2 coats rustoleum HD rust inhibitor semi gloss black.

when dry I then sprayed down the entire undercarriage/frame (aside from shocks/a-arms/spindles & front skid plate) w/ multiple coats of Amsoil HDMP - like I went nuts w/ it- 6 cans in total. Doused the inside of the frame wherever there was an opening, leafs, diffs, everything- drop the spare make sure get under there too.

I even used it on transfer case & the snails (make ******** sure they’re cold & you give it few hrs before driving- even then will smell a bit initially lol)

the stuff dries to a semi-permanent bees wax consistency. Doesn’t attract dust/dirt. very difficult to remove.

tye shocks I sprayed w/ rattle fan automotive clear coat. Once dry I doused the entire engine bay - everything all complements plastic, rubber, AL, FE, electrical connections etc- all of it, w/ Yamashield marine protective spray. This goes on clear - doesn’t last as long or as rugged as the Amsoil stuff but a) CAN be removed if you used a degreaser, b) goes on clear, c) smells good, d) can go on anything even electrical components w/o any risk of damage & adds a layer of protection once left to set. Think of it as a heavy duty spray wax- this is the stuff yamaha formulated for their marine engines & in particular for use on jet engines on impellers etc to prevent corrosion from salt water. When you really soak bare aluminum w/ it it does seem to bond to a degree especially if you do multiple applications when new before being exposed.

I used this on the shocks as well as a-arms/spindles etc in addition to the engine bay.

Now every summer I’ll touch up undercarriage when dry out w/ 1-2 cans of the Amsoil stuff.

running nokian snow tires on OEM base 17” wheels

snow beast
 
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911 Crazy

911 Crazy

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Here’s what I have done- Xpel film on partial hood/front fenders/grill surround/black window pillars.

In dry stretch of August when new I got underneath the truck used a wire brush wherever I saw any sign of rust on frame (basically nothing at that point) & hit up the rear diff/axles/leafs & U bolts w/ 2 coats rustoleum HD rust inhibitor semi gloss black.

when dry I then sprayed down the entire undercarriage/frame (aside from shocks/a-arms/spindles & front skid plate) w/ multiple coats of Amsoil HDMP - like I went nuts w/ it- 6 cans in total. Doused the inside of the frame wherever there was an opening, leafs, diffs, everything- drop the spare make sure get under there too.

I even used it on transfer case & the snails (make ******** sure they’re cold & you give it few hrs before driving- even then will smell a bit initially lol)

the stuff dries to a semi-permanent bees wax consistency. Doesn’t attract dust/dirt. very difficult to remove.

tye shocks I sprayed w/ rattle fan automotive clear coat. Once dry I doused the entire engine bay - everything all complements plastic, rubber, AL, FE, electrical connections etc- all of it, w/ Yamashield marine protective spray. This goes on clear - doesn’t last as long or as rugged as the Amsoil stuff but a) CAN be removed if you used a degreaser, b) goes on clear, c) smells good, d) can go on anything even electrical components w/o any risk of damage & adds a layer of protection once left to set. Think of it as a heavy duty spray wax- this is the stuff yamaha formulated for their marine engines & in particular for use on jet engines on impellers etc to prevent corrosion from salt water. When you really soak bare aluminum w/ it it does seem to bond to a degree especially if you do multiple applications when new before being exposed.

I used this on the shocks as well as a-arms/spindles etc in addition to the engine bay.

Now every summer I’ll touch up undercarriage when dry out w/ 1-2 cans of the Amsoil stuff.

running nokian snow tires on OEM base 17” wheels

snow beast

Now that is what I call a complete answer. Thanks...and I owe you a :cheers:
 
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