Plugs Wires Part Numbers?

[Cookie_Monster]

Hi - Can someone help me clarify Motorcraft part numbers for plugs and wires for a 2014 SuperCrew 6.2L. I seem to be going around in circles with reassigned part numbers.

Are these correct for Motorcraft?

(16) Plugs
CYFS-12-FP A.K.A. SP526 or SP-526. Are these the correct 'Double Platinum' plugs?

(4) Wires - Drivers Side
CC3Z-12286-A A.K.A. WR6146

(4) Wires - Passenger Side
CC3Z-12286-C A.K.A. WR6147

Also - What boots should I be using? I don't see any for Motorcraft but I do see Denso and NGK.

On Rock Auto the Denso version picture does not show the little fuse looking thing ('Pellet'?)

More Information for DENSO 6718182

And the NGK does show it.

More Information for NGK 58976

Which one do I need? I'm having a bad stalling issue with 107k miles, so I'm going to change everything except the coils. Step 2 will be coils if that doesn't fix the issue - It's time for new plugs anyway.

Thanks in advance!

 

[FordTechOne]

The plugs/wires would have to be extremely worn to cause a stall, but if they’re original with 107k they might as well be replaced regardless.

The spark plug part numbers you posted are correct per the Ford Parts catalog. Note that there was a part number supersession, so CYFS-12-FPX or SP526X can also be used as they are the same.

The spark plug wire part numbers are also correct per the Ford Catalog. Ford only sells the coil boots with the coil. I would go with the NGK boots since they include the pellet.

 

[Cookie_Monster]

The plugs/wires would have to be extremely worn to cause a stall,

Thanks for the clarification. I'm getting some arcing off the #3 or #4 coil if it's wet (you can hear it and see it). So I know there's a problem. The stalling issue is when idling or at very low throttle. Normally it 'coughs' and dies instantly at idle. Twice it has quit / gone into some sort of limp mode while driving leaving me stopped in the middle of traffic. The yellow wrench symbol came up on the display. If I turn the ignition completely off and back on it will restart an act normal again. There are no codes.

I've already changed the purge valve switch and I'm still having same issue. I really don't want to drive it like this with a major safety issue. From the research I've done the plugs / wires / boots are the next step. And as you said - it needs to be done anyway.

Do you recommend dielectric on all of the connections? What about on dielectric on the resistors/pellets? That seems to be a place where corrosion / degradation is especially bad.

 

[FordTechOne]

Thanks for the clarification. I'm getting some arcing off the #3 or #4 coil if it's wet (you can hear it and see it). So I know there's a problem. The stalling issue is when idling or at very low throttle. Normally it 'coughs' and dies instantly at idle. Twice it has quit / gone into some sort of limp mode while driving leaving me stopped in the middle of traffic. The yellow wrench symbol came up on the display. If I turn the ignition completely off and back on it will restart an act normal again. There are no codes.

I've already changed the purge valve switch and I'm still having same issue. I really don't want to drive it like this with a major safety issue. From the research I've done the plugs / wires / boots are the next step. And as you said - it needs to be done anyway.

Do you recommend dielectric on all of the connections? What about on dielectric on the resistors/pellets? That seems to be a place where corrosion / degradation is especially bad.

Yes, a small amount of dielectric grease at the secondary ignition connections it good practice in general. In terms of the pellets, that’s at your discretion. Ideally the grease applied in the base of the coil boot where it connects to the plug should prevent moisture and subsequent corrosion from developing in the coil boot.

If the Wrench light comes on there will be DTCs stored. However, you will typically need an OE/professional level scan tool to retrieve them. ForScan should also able to retrieve those DTCs, so if you don’t have it already it’s a good tool for a minimal investment.

 

[Cookie_Monster]

Just checked again with Forscan. Only DTC codes showing are:

B1215:00-28 Extended Memory Card - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
B11F0:14-08 Air Intake Damper Position Sensor - Circuit Short to Ground or Open
B11F0:12-08 Air Intake Damper Position Sensor - Circuit Short to Battery
B1083:07-08 Air Intake Damper Position Sensor - Mechanical Failure
B1182:00-08 Tire Pressure Monitoring System - Previously Set DTC - Not Present at Time of Request
B124D:02-08 Tire Pressure Monitoring System - General Signal Failure

The Intake Damper is broken - which explains that one My newly installed TPMS sensors won't program (a different topic I need help with). I'm not sure what the memory card issue is about.

Are there any hidden codes I may not be able to see? I read that sometimes codes are pending and only valid until key is off? Do I need to maybe run Forscan while driving around until it happens again, or possibly plug it in and check after a stall and before a restart/reset?