GEN 2 Need Suggestions: Lowering Raptor?

[Aaron]

But you get better mpg, so it's a win/win. lol

BRB putting the 225/40R18s from my eclipse onto the Raptor. gonna get ALL THE MPGS!

 

[KryptosXLayer2]

I really don't understand all the Debbie downer's on this forum. If you have nothing constructive to say then just move on without commenting.

To the OP, stock the front is lower than the rear. So I'm thinking if you put on 2 inch shackles on the rear to lower the rear 1 inch, it should net you half an inch at the roof. And it's not the front of the roof that you need to drop it's the rear of the roof because that's already higher then front due to the forward rake.

THANK YOU. Yeah, I take it all as it comes, you have to be used to the negativity on a public forum, everyone has to have something smart to say! That helps in my decision to "just" lower the rear, I appreciate it!

There are a couple ways that you can approach this. Factory has a 2 inch block between the Axle and the Leaf spring. If you wanted to, you could remove the factory block but make sure that you get a set of shorter U bolts and a bump stop from an 2017-F150 4wd.

Deavers +1 and a set of shackles would also help nicely.

Go hunting for wild boars and throw them in the bed. A few hundred will do the job. [emoji12]

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Would this be in ADDITION to the shackles? If I got rid of the block, what goes in its place? And excuse the ignorance, but Deavers +1 refers to a +1 leaf spring, isn't that going the opposite direction (unless there's a reason for needing an increased size leaf spring with the shackles)? Very helpful, so thanks!

I would do shackles in the rear and run smaller tires. Bonus: truck would be fast as hell with smaller tires. Don't forget you need to buy all 5, though. I see some sizes in both K02s and Duratracs that I'm pretty sure would work.

Honestly, I don't hate this idea. If that's what it takes to get a Raptor, so be it.

33s ain't that bad!

I'm all about more speed for less money! I figure these tires must be pretty high in demand, so getting something a little less aggressive, better for highway driving, but still very capable of going where I need to go would not only save me some money, but increase efficiency, power delivery, MPGs, and lower the truck - thanks!!!

I'm going to ask the obvious, but have you actually checked to see if the truck fits or are you assuming it wont? Maybe go down on a Sunday with an unladen truck and scope it out with a spotter. You may be worrying for not. Having said that, I am sympathetic to the butt pucker that are parking garages. The Sunroof helps.

Alex

I haven't checked because I don't have the truck yet to do so. They didn't want me taking a brand new one off the lot with 19 miles through downtown Charlotte just to check parking garage height, haha! But you're right (and others who have asked), I would definitely measure it and check tire pressure to see where I was at during different measurements - hot pressure vs cold, morning vs afternoon, sitting in the driveway vs having just driven 200 miles, etc. Lots of factors with that and there's always the outside chance that the factory 78.5" claim is off by a whole inch!

Just do this lol

While I don't know that I would go THAT extreme, I certainly don't HATE it! I considered briefly what I would do for aftermarket wheels and tires, and while I wouldn't go with another factory wheel and tire setup, I know that doing something more streetable within the requirements for weight ratings and still perfectly capable of going off the beaten path would certainly be an option!

 

[EricM]

You are in the Carolinas, so dropping the rear about 6" would be completely appropriate.

 

[Deleted member 12951]

This thread is like buying a GT500 and going into a GT500 forum asking how to rip out the manual transmission and installing an automatic

 

[KryptosXLayer2]

You are in the Carolinas, so dropping the rear about 6" would be completely appropriate.

This thread is like buying a GT500 and going into a GT500 forum asking how to rip out the manual transmission and installing an automatic

Obviously entitled to your opinion as a GT500 owner, but how exactly is getting a minimum of 0.5" of height out of this truck anywhere close to your analogy???? So this thing will be RUINED (in your opinion when converting a manual to automatic) by taking a small amount of height out of it? I'm sure not a single person in this forum would be able to look at this truck next to a stock one and tell the difference when done correctly, unlike the obvious removing of the clutch pedal in a manual and throwing in a slushbox transmission......

 

[NC Raptor]

What a ***********....

Okay, listen up homeboy, first off DO NOT put 33s on your MAHFUKIN RAPTOR!!! That's just sacreligious. Not to mention it looks atrocious.

Assuming the lowest point you'll need to pass under really is half an inch lower than a factory truck; those Camburg shackles ain't gonna cut it. The general rule is they lower ride height by about half their length, those being 1.5" longer, they should net you around .75", which leaves you .25" clearance at worst. And you could easily lose that by so much as being low on gas or rolling into a corner.

You still have options though. You could use RPGs 2" shackles and have a theoretical worst leeway of 0.5". I would not however go with a shackle much longer than that; because you're starting to exponentially grow the twisting force that can be transferred through your frame and springs. You're also not likely to find parts built to stand up to proper Raptor shenanigans. Therefore if you need even more clearance your next best option is to get +1 Deavers, these will be significantly better performing springs that are 1" taller than your factory springs, but to install them you remove the 2" block, netting you -1". At that point you'll have lost so much bump travel it would also be wise to bundle that with a bump kit.

Now what you really should do though is not neuter it and get yourself a 3" collar, 37s, methods, and drive your wife's car. Even if it fits height wise it's going to be a royal bitch to maneuver, especially since you say you're looking at a screw. If you're insistent, my personal plan of attack would be to start with shackles, then go with a spotter on a slow day and see how much actual clearance you have. If it's sketch get yourself +1s and a bumpkit.

Now was that so hard kids...

 

[KryptosXLayer2]

What a ***********....

Excellent advise, almost all the way around (not putting bigger tires on this thing!), so thank you. Since you're in Charlotte, we'll have to meet up sometime once I get it and you'll have to teach me a few things. I really don't know if I like the idea of bringing it to 4 Wheel Parts and getting screwed on parts and labor, so where you go, I'll have to follow. Not to mention, going and doing said "proper Raptor shenanigans" as you mentioned.

Thanks again for your help, much appreciated!

 

[AndysLog]

i havent read anything in this thread really. but like if you cant park your vehicle anywhere, it sounds like you should start shopping for a new vehicle?

 

[EricM]

You could haul a bunch of fat chicks around everywhere you go.

 

[Aaron]

What a ***********....

Okay, listen up homeboy, first off DO NOT put 33s on your MAHFUKIN RAPTOR!!! That's just sacreligious. Not to mention it looks atrocious.

Assuming the lowest point you'll need to pass under really is half an inch lower than a factory truck; those Camburg shackles ain't gonna cut it. The general rule is they lower ride height by about half their length, those being 1.5" longer, they should net you around .75", which leaves you .25" clearance at worst. And you could easily lose that by so much as being low on gas or rolling into a corner.

You still have options though. You could use RPGs 2" shackles and have a theoretical worst leeway of 0.5". I would not however go with a shackle much longer than that; because you're starting to exponentially grow the twisting force that can be transferred through your frame and springs. You're also not likely to find parts built to stand up to proper Raptor shenanigans. Therefore if you need even more clearance your next best option is to get +1 Deavers, these will be significantly better performing springs that are 1" taller than your factory springs, but to install them you remove the 2" block, netting you -1". At that point you'll have lost so much bump travel it would also be wise to bundle that with a bump kit.

Now what you really should do though is not neuter it and get yourself a 3" collar, 37s, methods, and drive your wife's car. Even if it fits height wise it's going to be a royal bitch to maneuver, especially since you say you're looking at a screw. If you're insistent, my personal plan of attack would be to start with shackles, then go with a spotter on a slow day and see how much actual clearance you have. If it's sketch get yourself +1s and a bumpkit.

Now was that so hard kids...