Lovin these Tie Rods! No modifications / No drilling into the spindle needed

[MDJAK]

Pretty much all aftermarket suspension and these things use FK uniballs or rod ends. So you’re not mistaken because they are exactly like other suspension parts out there. FK uniballs and rod ends require constant lubrication and are extremely susceptible to corrosion and wear caused my grit. I live in Washington and go up and down the passes often in the winter. FK stuff lasts about a year doing that before there’s enough wear that replacing it would make sense. Of course I let it go for 2-3 years and put up with the noise and play. I will not touch any “upgrade” with a 10’ pole if it has FK uniballs or rod unless it’s so good that I think it’s worth pulling the part and replacing the things every year. People located in dry areas will not have any of those issues.

I appreciate that explanation. Ty. I guess I should’ve added, though, how is it different from OEM? I watch a channel called Savage Geese on YouTube where as part of their reviews they always stand under the vehicle on a lift and go over the suspension, etc. and it looks pretty much the same as far as uniballs and where each piece connects. Of course I’m probably wrong. If I am, and the OEM parts are somehow protected, doesn’t seem that tough for the aftermarket to do the same? Is it the covers that @Zeusmotorworks shows above?

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Although I don’t live in the rust belt I can put 1600 miles a month on my Raptor. So those are not necessarily a good option for that use case, esp for those who don’t/can’t do their own work.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

I appreciate that explanation. Ty. I guess I should’ve added, though, how is it different from OEM? I watch a channel called Savage Geese on YouTube where as part of their reviews they always stand under the vehicle on a lift and go over the suspension, etc. and it looks pretty much the same as far as uniballs and where each piece connects. Of course I’m probably wrong. If I am, and the OEM parts are somehow protected, doesn’t seem that tough for the aftermarket to do the same? Is it the covers that @Zeusmotorworks shows above?

For the most part, OE are sealed from the elements, the other are not. Strength and range of movement of aftermarket is also a consideration.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Thats why, if I were doing UCA’s, I would probably only do icon delta joints. At least one of the joints is sealed. Then I’d be inclined to try out those boots on the other two.

 

[McCarthy]

Another ad thinly veiled as a member post... Embarrassing.

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

Another ad thinly veiled as a member post... Embarrassing.

Don't think I‘ve ever bought anything from them, but at least right now they ARE a registered vendor… business practices a side.

On the flipside, most members here are NOT hard use cases and should have an idea of what they are getting into. When I did have a business I spend more time talking folks OUT of the latest greatest “race” parts and many into OE which they would be happier with in the end. Back then margins were better on the race parts but happy customer return business… well, repeat business.

However, some people HAVE to buy parts like these to fit the other aftermarket parts they have. IE Alcon brake kits and other cases.

 

[downforce137]

Pretty much all aftermarket suspension and these things use FK uniballs or rod ends. So you’re not mistaken because they are exactly like other suspension parts out there. FK uniballs and rod ends require constant lubrication and are extremely susceptible to corrosion and wear caused my grit. I live in Washington and go up and down the passes often in the winter. FK stuff lasts about a year doing that before there’s enough wear that replacing it would make sense. Of course I let it go for 2-3 years and put up with the noise and play. I will not touch any “upgrade” with a 10’ pole if it has FK uniballs or rod unless it’s so good that I think it’s worth pulling the part and replacing the things every year. People located in dry areas will not have any of those issues.

i dont have any of those issues and im in salty ass chicagoland.. trips to the dunes, plenty of snow and road salt and these are 3 years old...

i pressure wash them, and occasionally ill spray some teflon lubricant on, but really once a year if that... they are fine.

i wouldnt use those boots as its trap the sand and moisture in there... def dont want that

 

[Zeusmotorworks]

i dont have any of those issues and im in salty ass chicagoland.. trips to the dunes, plenty of snow and road salt and these are 3 years old...

i pressure wash them, and occasionally ill spray some teflon lubricant on, but really once a year if that... they are fine.

i wouldnt use those boots as its trap the sand and moisture in there... def dont want that

Pointed out potential for water intrusion. You seem to do your diligence as far as maintenance. Care to drop the brand names? May help those who are willing to maintain them properly choose.

 

[downforce137]

Pointed out potential for water intrusion. You seem to do your diligence as far as maintenance. Care to drop the brand names? May help those who are willing to maintain them properly choose.

i think the main point is to spray them off.. mine show a little rust on the inner ball, but they dont have much lateral play. i'd bet that i have 35K mi on them? i was using a WD40 specialist dry lube, but after some reading, maybe i dont want to do that...

“By their very nature, PTFE-lined bearings are very tolerant of dirt. The absence of clearance makes them ‘self-wiping’. The bearing surface remains dry when lubricated by the liner, therefore it does not attract dust and grit as a conventionally lubricated piece would. Once a clearance develops, then it’s possible for the unit to ingest dirt between the ball and liner. At this point, however, the bearing will probably need to be replaced anyway. As far as liquid contaminants, strong acids such as nitric and sulfuric must be avoided, as should strong alkaline fluids, as well. Most organic compounds and solvents have little or no effect.”

 

[taquitos]

i dont have any of those issues and im in salty ass chicagoland.. trips to the dunes, plenty of snow and road salt and these are 3 years old...

i pressure wash them, and occasionally ill spray some teflon lubricant on, but really once a year if that... they are fine.

i wouldnt use those boots as its trap the sand and moisture in there... def dont want that

I think it’s more the combination of grit and water that gets them. The passes here are heavily sanded compared to other parts of the country. It’s like throwing lapping compound all over the truck. You don’t get the crazy rust from the salt at least, but man when I was on a truck with leaf springs those combined with FK uniballs in the front made for the loudest ride ever. The misalignment spacers don’t match up perfectly to the spherical so every time that interface passes the edge of the ptfe it brings grit with it. The less the suspension is cycled the less that happens and the longer they will last.