GEN 2 HO motor takes 7 quarts initial fillup, but 6 for maintenance...

[ovrlnd]

Yeah that was me. No big deal - I drive a '64 356 with a gas tank that's practically in your lap so I'm accustomed to such dangers.

 

[DROPOUT]

On the topic of oil sampling, it would be beneficial to have others performing the same testing. That way we'd be able to gather a broader data sampling and see any actual irregularities. Just a thought.

I've sent out several Blackstone oil analysis packets over the years. I have no problem sending mine in

 

[Lightman]

That's mighty interesting, @EIGHTLUG. I appreciate that information, however I doubt its applicability to street and off-road driving:

- Your diesel generators were designed for steady state operation. Automobiles don't operate that way. Off-road vehicles even less so.
- Diesel generators and gasoline powered engines are very different power plants, operate differently, burn different fuels, have vastly different compression ratios, etc.
- Diesel generators don't move, so they can have huge filtration systems. How big were the filters on those generators?
- Because weight is not a factor in stationary diesel generators, they can have huge oil capacities. Betcha your generators had more than 7 quarts of oil in them.

All of those will greatly affect the results of an oil analysis.

I use fully synthetic motor oil in everything I own, including the lawn mower. I really am a great fan of synthetic motor oil. I change oil at 6,000 mile intervals in my Raptor and my wife's Ford Edge. Following this scheme in several decades worth of previous vehicles, I've never suffered any kind of mechanical engine failure. I drove a 1986 Nissan D21 4x4 for 19 years and never had a failure. My method obviously works quite well. I trust my personal experience a LOT more than I trust the auto manufacturers.

Actually sincerely no offense but while everything you post above may be factual, it's not relevant. It doesn't matter if it's a diesel generator, a ford raptor, or a weed wacker - the point of oil analysis is apples to apples comparison of YOUR engine..with whatever mods or environment or driving style you put it through. You take a baseline measurement of used oil at some interval - perhaps 6,000 miles re the poster above - and examine the wear metals, tbn, etc to determine the oil's health. There are very well supported and established limits as well as ranges of 'good scores' in each measurement...(IE if your iron count is at 6ppm, that's very low, but if it were say 1000, you have a massive issue..) If one was to find that at the baseline interval that the oil was barely worn - one can safely extend intervals. If it's beat up - it can be decided if the current interval is good, or too long. I've been doing oil analysis on several gas and diesel vehicles since 1999 when I first got into diesels. I've also done in on various boats. At the end of the day, the more folks with Raptors that are willing to spend the whopping $15 it costs to do an oil analysis and share results - the better. We all know dealers like to make service money, and finding out the truly best change intervals for these trucks will help all.

Mobil 1 fan here too!

 

[Ruger]

Completely relevant, @Lightman, if you had read the whole thread.

 

[CSJr]

It looks like I've stumbled across some knowledgeable members. My question is straightforward. If the Raptor has 1qt leftover oil in it after it is drained, does this mean we cannot change the oil type as you are not supposed to mix oils? For example, from regular to synthetic?

 

[17Jake]

 

[Humvee21]

It looks like I've stumbled across some knowledgeable members. My question is straightforward. If the Raptor has 1qt leftover oil in it after it is drained, does this mean we cannot change the oil type as you are not supposed to mix oils? For example, from regular to synthetic?

Regular to synthetic is fine. Synthetic to regular is fine. As long as you're using the same weight either way will be fine. Technically it'll just be a synthetic blend.

 

[Ruger]

You will not overfill your 6.2L when blithely pouring in a full 7 quarts of oil if you do this "one weird trick." (No, you won't get a bigger weenie.)

1. After the crankcase has fully drained, put the drain plug back in.

2. Pull the filter and let that drain fully.

Think your engine is now fully drained? Nope.

3. Empty your drain pan so you can measure how much more comes out.

4. Pull the crankcase drain plug again and watch in speechless astonishment as another 6 to 8 ounces drains out of the crankcase.

Automotive magic? Nope. Pulling the filter releases suction from an oil gallery and lets it drain into the pan.

Do this every time you change the oil. If you don't, you will systematically adulterate your brand new expensive synthetic motor oil with dirty oil, you'll probably overfill the crankcase, and your engine will never have a good oil change.

Here's another tip: Prime the new oil filter. Pour some oil into the new filter and roll it around in the filter to saturate the filter medium. You'll be surprised how much oil the filter medium will suck up. Put as much oil as you can in it without it pouring back out as you tip it sideways to screw on. Why? When you restart the engine after your oil change, you will have NO OIL PRESSURE until the filter is filled. Shorten the period of time your engine is running with no oil pressure by priming the new filter.

 

[DJE]

You will not overfill your 6.2L when blithely pouring in a full 7 quarts of oil if you do this "one weird trick." (No, you won't get a bigger weenie.)

1. After the crankcase has fully drained, put the drain plug back in.

2. Pull the filter and let that drain fully.

Think your engine is now fully drained? Nope.

3. Empty your drain pan so you can measure how much more comes out.

4. Pull the crankcase drain plug again and watch in speechless astonishment as another 6 to 8 ounces drains out of the crankcase.

Automotive magic? Nope. Pulling the filter releases suction from an oil gallery and lets it drain into the pan.

Do this every time you change the oil. If you don't, you will systematically adulterate your brand new expensive synthetic motor oil with dirty oil, you'll probably overfill the crankcase, and your engine will never have a good oil change.

Here's another tip: Prime the new oil filter. Pour some oil into the new filter and roll it around in the filter to saturate the filter medium. You'll be surprised how much oil the filter medium will suck up. Put as much oil as you can in it without it pouring back out as you tip it sideways to screw on. Why? When you restart the engine after your oil change, you will have NO OIL PRESSURE until the filter is filled. Shorten the period of time your engine is running with no oil pressure by priming the new filter.

What he said I do the same thing on all of my farm equipment and have never had a problem with a moter. Take your time and do it right. Nobody changes my oil but me. It's a trust thing. Tough to trust a guy making $10 an hour to change oil on my $67K truck. My opinion.