Having high beam switch control

[SpeedJunkie]

By the way, here are the wiring diagrams for the 2018 headlights:

RH


LH

 

[bwmiller74]

Okay upon studying my schematic more I'm thinking I needed additional diodes. Can someone look at it and tell me if it finally looks correct? Sorry for my ignorance on this, but I think I'm figuring it out. Assuming the wiring is routed properly for the relays and everything else. I may remove AUX4 from the scenario and leave the spots only powered by highbeams, as I can't think of any reason I would want just spots and not highs. The wide/cornering I'm leaving in place as they could be handy in snow/foggy conditions.

• Still looking for clarification on whether the relay with built in fuse is okay or if it needs to be in-line before the relay.

• Which diodes to use? I have both of these available and not sure the electrical advantage of one over the other.
→ AKOAK 15amp Diode Axial Schottky Blocking Diodes this would seem easier to heat shrink and place in a wire loom
→ MBR1645G- Diode Schottky 45V, 16A this is the kind that NDO used

THANK YOU ALL AGAIN FOR YOUR INPUT!!!

 

[Slow6]

All I've been able to find is WPT-1279 is the Motorcraft number for the wiring harness side of the Headlight connector. I can't seem to find a part number for the connector mate. If someone does please post, this would allow you to hook these two connectors together and install in-line between factory harness and headlight assembly. Then splice your high beam and low beam trigger wires into the added "jumper" without having to splice into the factory wiring.

 

[NDO]

The diode you asked about should work fine.

You only need one diode for each leg, three total as shown in my sketch. Not six or eight as in your sketches. All you need is to prevent an individual switch backfeeding the common power, so all you need are the three on the blue lines in your sketch.

Your sketch has the relays swapped. The one powered from the battery needs to be triggered by the other relay. The one powered from an aux switch needs to be triggered by the high beam wire. If you changed the “battery” and “aux1” tags at the bottom of your sketch it would work.

Aux1 will work fine but many folks choose a different switch for that purpose because you’re using a 15A switch position for a very small current draw that could be easily handled by Aux5 or Aux6. Your choice.

 

[flzrider]

Okay upon studying my schematic more I'm thinking I needed additional diodes. Can someone look at it and tell me if it finally looks correct? Sorry for my ignorance on this, but I think I'm figuring it out. Assuming the wiring is routed properly for the relays and everything else. I may remove AUX4 from the scenario and leave the spots only powered by highbeams, as I can't think of any reason I would want just spots and not highs. The wide/cornering I'm leaving in place as they could be handy in snow/foggy conditions.

• Still looking for clarification on whether the relay with built in fuse is okay or if it needs to be in-line before the relay.

• Which diodes to use? I have both of these available and not sure the electrical advantage of one over the other.
→ AKOAK 15amp Diode Axial Schottky Blocking Diodes this would seem easier to heat shrink and place in a wire loom
→ MBR1645G- Diode Schottky 45V, 16A this is the kind that NDO used

THANK YOU ALL AGAIN FOR YOUR INPUT!!!

I’m not sure why you’re planning on using diodes if this can be accomplished so much easier with relays. The schematic I posted earlier is exactly what you’re trying to accomplish: manual control of your fog/driving lights while also being able to switch them to an automatic mode where they turn on whenever the high beams are on. It’s working great on my truck.

 

[SpeedJunkie]

All I've been able to find is WPT-1279 is the Motorcraft number for the wiring harness side of the Headlight connector. I can't seem to find a part number for the connector mate. If someone does please post, this would allow you to hook these two connectors together and install in-line between factory harness and headlight assembly. Then splice your high beam and low beam trigger wires into the added "jumper" without having to splice into the factory wiring.

Great idea, that would be a lot better than splicing the harness. I will email the contact at my dealer that got me the headlight wiring diagrams and see if they can get me the part number.

 

[cain072567]

butt spice connectors suck and fail, if u di use them get the water prood ones with silicon in them. Just a idea,

---------- Post added at 09:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:36 PM ----------

no inline fuse needed for most relays unless your coming from the battery. Fuse protects the wire not the device.

 

[bwmiller74]

I originally had my fog lights wired up to the AUX1 & AUX2 switches, but I quickly realized two things:

1. The fog lights were aimed high enough that they really weren't fog lights, more like extra road lights, although I actually preferred it that way.
2. It was not ergonomic or safe to be reaching up to switch the lights on/off at the AUX switch panel.

So using the info in this thread (and linked threads) I wired up my fog lights to turn on/off with the high beams and it works amazingly well with the auto high beams. No blinding on-coming traffic and no reaching up above. I wired mine up in such a way that I can hit AUX6 and change the mode of the fog lights to operate manually using AUX1 & AUX2 as they were before. Here's a crude diagram I made on a post-it note. You will need a SPST (normally open) relay, as well as a SPDT relay. Both easily found on amazon.

I like the idea of skipping diodes all together, but I have a hard time making heads or tails of your post it. If you have time and can elaborate in detail which wires connect to where I will definitely go this route. I just order some SPDT Relays. All materials including my FRL kit will be here for me to play with this weekend!!!

I'll make another sketch tomorrow following what I think you're showing me and submit for feedback. Thank you all !

---------- Post added at 12:21 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:06 AM ----------

All I've been able to find is WPT-1279 is the Motorcraft number for the wiring harness side of the Headlight connector. I can't seem to find a part number for the connector mate. If someone does please post, this would allow you to hook these two connectors together and install in-line between factory harness and headlight assembly. Then splice your high beam and low beam trigger wires into the added "jumper" without having to splice into the factory wiring.

I saw this harness yesterday and was trying to figure out the female end too. I believe I found it!!!

Just ordered -
WPT1321

 

[NDO]

I’m not sure why you’re planning on using diodes if this can be accomplished so much easier with relays. The schematic I posted earlier is exactly what you’re trying to accomplish: manual control of your fog/driving lights while also being able to switch them to an automatic mode where they turn on whenever the high beams are on. It’s working great on my truck.

Will that work with three independently switched light sets? I’d like to see the schematic for it, can you post it? I agree that for two sets and a SPDT relay it would be better to use relays and avoid the very slight power loss from diodes.

 

[Slow6]

I saw this harness yesterday and was trying to figure out the female end too. I believe I found it!!!

Just ordered -
WPT1321

Let us know if it connects. That’s how I’d prefer to hook up my driving lights is with high beam trigger. I was actually thinking of hooking up an old style floor stomp high beam switch to activate the ground circuit on the relay for driving lights, just because I did not want to splice into factory wiring.

I will still run my fog lights independently of headlights, there are a few times with heavy ice fog it’s been nice just to have fog lights without low beams on.