Having high beam switch control

[SpeedJunkie]

I didn't tap when I made the the harness. I removed all the unused pins and soldered a lead wire to the appropriate high beam wire. I made that lead wire about 8" and connected a weatherpack connector, which then connects to a longer wire back to my relay/aux light box. so you can easily remove it if you want too. You're looking at about $50 for all the parts, but thats a small price to pay to avoid splicing factory wiring on the bestest truck around

Just to be clear, I tapped the high beam wire on the harness I built with the wpt connectors, not the factory one. Then I put in a weather pack connector on the short lead coming off of the tap. So nothing factory is modified and it can be taken out easily. But the way you did it works fine too.

 

[buyrogue_TYH]

Retrofit Fog Light Switch in place of Aux 6

FRF electrical gurus:

I would like to do something similar to the Flzrider but retrofit the Non-Raptor headlight/headlamp switch to take the place of Aux 6. Because this is a ground signal, I think I need to wire it to 85 on the SPDT relays and feed 86 with power from the battery. Can someone validate the schematic below, please?

Thanks in advance!

 

[Notn41]

Subd

 

[Nucdancer01]

Sub


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[Mountainkiter]

Access to wire harness

Just to be clear, I tapped the high beam wire on the harness I built with the wpt connectors, not the factory one. Then I put in a weather pack connector on the short lead coming off of the tap. So nothing factory is modified and it can be taken out easily. But the way you did it works fine too.

Sorry for such a basic question. How did you get to the headlight harness behind the light. Did you loosen the wheel well liner and go underneath or were you able to reach from above? looking at the driver side it looks difficult to reach. Thanks in advance.

 

[SpeedJunkie]

Sorry for such a basic question. How did you get to the headlight harness behind the light. Did you loosen the wheel well liner and go underneath or were you able to reach from above? looking at the driver side it looks difficult to reach. Thanks in advance.

I pulled the headlight out. IIRC you have to remove the grille and one of the plastic pieces around the headlight to get it out. I had to take the grille off anyway to install the M&R light bars, so it wasn't that much extra work to get the headlight out.

 

[Uncas]

Sorry for such a basic question. How did you get to the headlight harness behind the light. Did you loosen the wheel well liner and go underneath or were you able to reach from above? looking at the driver side it looks difficult to reach. Thanks in advance.

I actually pulled the air filter box out of the way and then it's very easy to reach from above. Two pins at the intake and one 13mm bolt at the fender.

 

[Speeddeacon]

As noted the setup/diagram Flzrider shared works as it was intended. However, it wasn't quite what I was wanting. I have finally came up with a diagram I am confident will work to achieve my goal.


By default All lights will turn on Automatically when high beams engaged WITH AUX6 acting as switch to disable. So basically when AUX6 is in the 'ON' position the Auto ALL ON will be disabled (turned OFF).
Aux1-3 turn on/off lights independently

Resurrecting an old post here. If you wanted to turn on the auto high beam function with aux 6 rather than turn the function off with aux 6; would you then set the output to pin 87 rather than 87a on the aux 6 relay? Seems like that should allow individual control from the upfitter or auto high beam when aux 6 is switched on.

Second question, not necessarily for this OP but anyone, if you did use a diode to prevent feedback going back to high beam, would a single diode between the headlight and the relays be adequate?


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