h&m racing design ford raptor long travel kit (clean post)

[canamds450]

This is how my steering wheel is in straight line.

Engine cage, dont know if that can hold the heavy rates springs



Still unable to use bumps tops

A rear rubber bump stops tongue kiss

rogue 20" suspension kit, that's the only bolts on kit that you can add 20" of suspension travel without cutting the bed.
Dont want to know about welding and cutting anymore.

the H&m racing design 18"lts kit with the rogue 20" at the rear for
Me is the best combo

 

[JayLV]

rogue 20" suspension kit, that's the only bolts on kit that you can add 20" of suspension travel without cutting the bed.
Dont want to know about welding and cutting anymore.

the H&m racing design 18"lts kit with the rogue 20" at the rear for
Me is the best combo

I've seen the Rogue cantilever kit in person. It's very nice. You're high if you think it's just some simple install.

The best idea would have been to put 3.0s all around, deaver's and probably bump stops in the rear and call it a day.

I don't think you need 18/20" of travel to soak up pot holes.

 

[canamds450]

I've seen the Rogue cantilever kit in person. It's very nice. You're high if you think it's just some simple install.



The best idea would have been to put 3.0s all around, deaver's and probably bump stops in the rear and call it a day.



I don't think you need 18/20" of travel to soak up pot holes.

Or only a good bump stop kit as the icons or rpg to save the rear end

 

[ntm]

This is how my steering wheel is in straight line.

It's pretty easy to simply shorten one tie rod link and extend the other until your wheel is straight. Go the same number of turns on each side and your alignment will be unaffected.
The cage will be fine with the high spring rates as long as there are quality welds on the shock hoops and brace.
If I were you, I'd be looking at the new icon rear setup.
It'll perform just as well for you as the cantilever, and have the bonus of being just about impossible to **** the install up.

I don't think you need 18/20" of travel to soak up pot holes.

Hah !

Honestly though, can't speak for the h&m, but the brenthel lt has a much smoother ride than 3.0's over potholes and chop...

 

[canamds450]

It's pretty easy to simply shorten one tie rod link and extend the other until your wheel is straight. Go the same number of turns on each side and your alignment will be unaffected.

The cage will be fine with the high spring rates as long as there are quality welds on the shock hoops and brace.

If I were you, I'd be looking at the new icon rear setup.

It'll perform just as well for you as the cantilever, and have the bonus of being just about impossible to **** the install up.









Hah !



Honestly though, can't speak for the h&m, but the brenthel lt has a much smoother ride than 3.0's over potholes and chop...

What icons kit, do you kean the RXT with bump stop kit. That kit looks interesting icons is a 100% bolt on kit and very easy to install with their instruction manual.
Dont know why they did not use a under sprimg set up for that kit
Sdhq has they under spring conversion


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[ntm]

What icons kit, do you kean the RXT with bump stop kit. That kit looks interesting icons is a 100% bolt on kit and very easy to install with their instruction manual.
Dont know why they did not use a under sprimg set up for that kit
Sdhq has they under spring conversion


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Yes, the rxt.
The sprung over is fine, the way their springs are designed they are not limiting compression travel.
The way they've set it up, it extracts all available travel before you need to start cutting and welding on the frame.
As you're finding with your front end, less travel that is tuned better will outperform every time.

We still need your coilover and bypass valving. Odds are that's where most of the "stiffness" of your front suspension is coming from.

 

[canamds450]

Yes, the rxt.

The sprung over is fine, the way their springs are designed they are not limiting compression travel.

The way they've set it up, it extracts all available travel before you need to start cutting and welding on the frame.

As you're finding with your front end, less travel that is tuned better will outperform every time.



We still need your coilover and bypass valving. Odds are that's where most of the "stiffness" of your front suspension is coming from.

Hey just to double check, do i need to keep the 500/6" tender for the 700/20" main spring?


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[ntm]

Hey just to double check, do i need to keep the 500/6" tender for the 700/20" main spring?


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Probably, how long is your coil overs stroke, 10,12,14 inches ?

 

[canamds450]

Probably, how long is your coil overs stroke, 10,12,14 inches ?

Only thing i know The coilover shocks eyelet to eyelet is 32" full extended.
At my ride height shock has shown 7 1/2" out of shaft, so prob is 14


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[ntm]

Only thing i know The coilover shocks eyelet to eyelet is 32" full extended.
At my ride height shock has shown 7 1/2" out of shaft, so prob is 14


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That'd be a 12" coilover then.
Your ride height is a bit too high yet if you've got 7 1/2" of shaft at ride height.
You will still require the 6" 500lbs tender spring to take up any slack when the suspension droops out.