GEN 1 Goodies starting to arrive!

II Sevv

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Trying to do the work myself so not too concerned that the mod/parts are backlogged and long lead-times...The real long lead times are the KING shocks, so the route I'm taking allows me to somewhat keep the suspension balanced for now and I can use the truck while I wait. Also, one limiting factor are the stock beadlock wheels, so I went without the heims on the UCAs. I'm running the cast wheels with the BFG KO2s for now on street, but will switch over to the stock forged wheels with Ford true BLs and KM3s, but also backordered!

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Confused about what you say about the stock beadlocks. The stock bead locks are forged and they are real bead locks; Ford just isn’t legally allowed to include the rings with the correct number of holes with the wheels. The wheels also don’t have anything to do with the UCA’s you run. You can get a spacer (they sell them as small as 1/4”) and they’ll clear.
 

II Sevv

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I’m gonna be honest, I also have the camburg shackles (got them extended to lower the truck a bit with longer leaf springs) and didn’t notice any difference in ride when getting rid of the stock vulcanized rubber bushings. Personally I’d get leaf springs and go extended length shackles or just return them and save the money.
 

MEIRONMAN207

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Maybe I wasn’t clear and it’s well documented…the stock wheels will rub with the adjustable UCAs. And I want to use my stock wheels. I have three sets. Two forged with beauty rings and one set of true Ford Performance bead lock rings. And one set cast, that I’m on now while I do my mods. Also, I don’t want spacers. And as to the tires, the BFG KM3s in in the 315/70/17 have been unavailable since I started checking back in March.
 
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II Sevv

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Maybe I wasn’t clear and it’s well documented…the stock wheels will rub with the adjustable UCAs. And I want to use my stock wheels. I have three sets. Two forged with beauty rings and one set of true Ford Performance bead lock rings. And one set cast, that I’m on now while I do my mods. Also, I don’t want spacers. And as to the tires, the BFG KM3s in in the 315/70/17 have been unavailable since I started checking back in March.
I know adjustable arms rub; I have non adjustable camburg arms and they still rub with stock offset wheels. I’d just run a spacer; way more cost effective. I bought an svc bed cage and they told me to run a spacer in the rear to keep the tires from rubbing on the bypass tubes with my specific shocks. They wouldn’t be giving customers advice if there was any chance of safety issues or vehicle damage.
 

MEIRONMAN207

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I know adjustable arms rub; I have non adjustable camburg arms and they still rub with stock offset wheels. I’d just run a spacer; way more cost effective. I bought an svc bed cage and they told me to run a spacer in the rear to keep the tires from rubbing on the bypass tubes with my specific shocks. They wouldn’t be giving customers advice if there was any chance of safety issues or vehicle damage.
So are you running 315s, 35s or 37s ? And just to FYI with my cast w/ KO2s in OEM 315s at neutral about +/- 1/2" clearance stock UCA. So were you rubbing at full droop? With what tire? and solved with? A half 1/2" spacer? Lots of variables, its not a one size fit all.
 

MEIRONMAN207

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Bored from waiting for my Deavers to arrived (original ETA end of May) I addressed the rear axle OEM breather tube that I discovered it was dry rotted and fell apart when I pulled it off. So I said, why not match and upgrade like the new Blue SS brake lines. Silicone tube + 4 in Blue and a new breather valve in blue billet also, Hahahaha... BTW...it was cheaper than buying the OEM rubber tube with the plastic end piece and would've been stock length.
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MTF

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Bored from waiting for my Deavers to arrived (original ETA end of May) I addressed the rear axle OEM breather tube that I discovered it was dry rotted and fell apart when I pulled it off. So I said, why not match and upgrade like the new Blue SS brake lines. Silicone tube + 4 in Blue and a new breather valve in blue billet also, Hahahaha... BTW...it was cheaper than buying the OEM rubber tube with the plastic end piece and would've been stock length.
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Nice, my only suggestion would be to put it back up in the bed rail to help prevent dirt from getting in the tube.
 

MEIRONMAN207

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Nice, my only suggestion would be to put it back up in the bed rail to help prevent dirt from getting in the tube.
Yes, I originally did that, but I picked up a billet valve that is designed for off-road dirt bikes as a fuel air valve vs the stock plastic one that isn't even protected. The billet valve has a collar and the hole is smaller...I could've run the hose from the rail down, but I chose to zip tie it for now outside until I get the springs and go full droop to confirm the length etc...
 

MTF

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Yes, I originally did that, but I picked up a billet valve that is designed for off-road dirt bikes as a fuel air valve vs the stock plastic one that isn't even protected. The billet valve has a collar and the hole is smaller...I could've run the hose from the rail down, but I chose to zip tie it for now outside until I get the springs and go full droop to confirm the length etc...
I understand, good call
 

MEIRONMAN207

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Heck...It might be a little over the top to dress up my rear end, color matched, billet pieces and SS braided lines...all better quality, more durable and better performance than stock. Its bling that works vs I saw a Chick on the U-tube getting a starburst tat around her anus!!! Talk about dressing up your rear end, Nuff Said...
 
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