Doug's cutout to upfitter switch

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

OP
OP
R@pt0r

R@pt0r

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Posts
75
Reaction score
29
If you wire the cutout directly to the switch it will receive a constant 12 volts all the time, this will burn the motor out quickly. The cutout needs a momentary 2 second 12v pulse to open then a momentary 12v 2 sec pulse in the opposite direction to close. The setup worked but just wasn't reliable because the TR7 kept sending erroneous open and close signals. I suspect it was heat related. I'll always take reliability over flash so I mounted the rocker switch above the upfitter switches.
 

robnfl

Full Access Member
Joined
May 8, 2014
Posts
157
Reaction score
40
Location
Jax FL
If you wire the cutout directly to the switch it will receive a constant 12 volts all the time, this will burn the motor out quickly. The cutout needs a momentary 2 second 12v pulse to open then a momentary 12v 2 sec pulse in the opposite direction to close. The setup worked but just wasn't reliable because the TR7 kept sending erroneous open and close signals. I suspect it was heat related. I'll always take reliability over flash so I mounted the rocker switch above the upfitter switches.

Ahhh...I got it, so the switch that is supplied with the cutout is a "momentary on" switch.

The reason I'm asking is because I just ordered the Doug's cutout.
 

Goofball

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
290
Reaction score
86
I tried multiple times to make the TR7 module reliable with no luck. It will work for a while, but then it will start trying to close the already closed cutout. I don't know if the TR7 is heat sensitive, but it would work for a while then randomly start acting up. Two weeks, cutout fried. I've ditched the TR7 idea and installed the rocker switch that came with the cutout in the console. Hopefully I can get a replacement motor for the cutout. I'll leave the upfitter switch for something else.

I took my cutout apart today. I think a lot of these claims that the motor fried are wrong. If you can take your apart you will see some problem areas. The plate that moves back and forth is dragging on some rivets. Compounding the problem is the fact that the exhaust is pushing against the plate even making the pressure worse. Cant really explain better than that. If you take 15 minutes and take it apart you will see exactly what I'm talking about. Im going to grind some grooves in the plate so it can kind of track in the rivets path. I will take some pics so it makes more sense.. And BTW the reason i did this was because my cutout was only closing down half way.
 
OP
OP
R@pt0r

R@pt0r

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 16, 2012
Posts
75
Reaction score
29
Thank you for your input. I took the motor completely out and connected it directly to the battery. Motor was definitely fried. Summit promptly sent a new cutout and today the gears in the new one stripped. Maybe the third one will be the charm.

I actually did take the old cutout apart. The "rivets" are actually ball bearings backed by springs that put pressure on the the plate and hold it in place when closed to prevent rattling. They do rub on the plate and leave marks, but it isn't anything to worry about IMO. I suppose it is possible that a bearing could stick and not move out of the way causing the cutout to not close all the way, cleaning it would solve this problem.
 

Goofball

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
290
Reaction score
86
Thank you for your input. I took the motor completely out and connected it directly to the battery. Motor was definitely fried. Summit promptly sent a new cutout and today the gears in the new one stripped. Maybe the third one will be the charm.

I actually did take the old cutout apart. The "rivets" are actually ball bearings backed by springs that put pressure on the the plate and hold it in place when closed to prevent rattling. They do rub on the plate and leave marks, but it isn't anything to worry about IMO. I suppose it is possible that a bearing could stick and not move out of the way causing the cutout to not close all the way, cleaning it would solve this problem.

You sir are correct, Upon further inspection they are in fact little bearings. But my balls were all froze up lol. Im sure these things are sitting on a shelf some time before they are put in use. I lubed those bearings up the best I could and I will report back. Just FYI for those that just ordered one probably a good idea to just take it apart real quick and lube up your balls!
 

robnfl

Full Access Member
Joined
May 8, 2014
Posts
157
Reaction score
40
Location
Jax FL
I received my Doug's C/O and Y pipe yesterday. Now I've gotta figure out where to install it... in place of the resonator, or behind the resonator.
 

Marcsc1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
95
Reaction score
37
Location
Alden, NY
I received my Doug's C/O and Y pipe yesterday. Now I've gotta figure out where to install it... in place of the resonator, or behind the resonator.

Did you install it yet, if so where? and where you happy with the sound....

What's the consensus on the best place to install these?
 

Goofball

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Posts
290
Reaction score
86
sorry for the late response... ended up putting mine exactly where the resonator goes. I did it at the same time as I installed my corsa extreme so the the resonator went away anyway.
 

robnfl

Full Access Member
Joined
May 8, 2014
Posts
157
Reaction score
40
Location
Jax FL
I finally mounted mine last Saturday. I wanted to mount the cut-out as far back as possible to try to keep the reverberation (drone) out of the cabin. I cut about an equal length of pipe from the pipe behind the resonator, and equal amount from the pipe in front of the muffler. So, basically I put it where the joint is between the resonator section and the muffler. I also ended up buying some exhaust pipe clamps to use instead of the provided bands, I wanted to make sure it sealed tight. I have to say the sound is better than I had anticipated. It isn't really loud like I thought it was going to be...the sound is just a mellow rumble until you press the skinny pedal. There is very little drone inside the cabin, but there is some around 1600~2000 rpm when under load. The best part is, if it gets too annoying, just flip a switch and then silence.
 

Marcsc1

Full Access Member
Joined
Feb 12, 2014
Posts
95
Reaction score
37
Location
Alden, NY
Ordered my Doug's last week so hoping it's here soon, just trying to decide behind the resonator or remove it.

I finally mounted mine last Saturday. I wanted to mount the cut-out as far back as possible to try to keep the reverberation (drone) out of the cabin. I cut about an equal length of pipe from the pipe behind the resonator, and equal amount from the pipe in front of the muffler. So, basically I put it where the joint is between the resonator section and the muffler. I also ended up buying some exhaust pipe clamps to use instead of the provided bands, I wanted to make sure it sealed tight. I have to say the sound is better than I had anticipated. It isn't really loud like I thought it was going to be...the sound is just a mellow rumble until you press the skinny pedal. There is very little drone inside the cabin, but there is some around 1600~2000 rpm when under load. The best part is, if it gets too annoying, just flip a switch and then silence.

Better than you thought tone wise? So with the resonator its rumbly on idle but not crazy until you hit the pedal, how loud on WOT?

sorry for the late response... ended up putting mine exactly where the resonator goes. I did it at the same time as I installed my corsa extreme so the the resonator went away anyway.

Do you think I would get lots of drone removing it but only having the stock exhaust?
 
Top