Battery and door locks

[daniel stair]

Was surfing Facebook and saw someone had an issue where they could not unlock their Raptor with the FOB or the key. As the conversation progressed someone mentioned if the battery in the truck is dead neither the key or the FOB would unlock the doors, the solution is to hook jumper cables to the starter to get power to unlock the door.
So first question is. Is this really a thing? Ford designed a vehicle that if the battery dies you can't unlock the doors to open the door to jump or replace the battery?
Second question. To fix this issue... If it is a issue... Couldn't you simply take an old jumper cable, connect it to the positive battery post and route it to someplace accessable, secure it and seal it so it couldn't ground. So the truck could be given power without crawling under it.

 

[The Car Stereo Company]

or use the physical key thats inside the remote

 

[GordoJay]

Emergency keys abound ...

 

[daniel stair]

The poster had stated that the physical key would not unlock the door. I would have thought that would be a mechanical process and not effected by loss of power but I don't know, maybe the key unlocks the door using and electrical actuator.

 

[wheelman55]

Then how do you propose to access the battery...with the cabin doors locked?

Here’s a picture of the link rod which shows that the connection from lock to pin is a solid link, meaning a mechanical connector that works with or without the battery. Or should

https://parts.autonationfordwhitebe...tMTUwJnk9MjAxOCZ0PXJhcHRvciZlPTMtNWwtdjYtZ2Fz

Careful with what you post, do your best to keep things correct.

Experiment, disconnect your negative cable, then try to use the inner fob key. Report back to the group what you find out. Should only take a few minutes.

If the wee key doesn’t unlock the door, then you can install a connector whip with heavy fine stranded copper wire, ring terminals on the battery end, Anderson connectors on the other end.

 

[fueler]

I thought the same as you at first but I think he's talking about running a lead from the battery positive post down to an accessible spot that wouldn't require crawling on his back to get to the starter post. The only way you could do that is something like Porsche and other brands might do, connect a positive jumper post fixed and bolted down with a cable from that to the battery. Still not something I'd want to do to my own ride.

 

[wheelman55]

I thought the same as you at first but I think he's talking about running a lead from the battery positive post down to an accessible spot that wouldn't require crawling on his back to get to the starter post. The only way you could do that is something like Porsche and other brands might do, connect a positive jumper post fixed and bolted down with a cable from that to the battery. Still not something I'd want to do to my own ride.

In that case....Build or buy something like this. Meant to be routed into the grill. I did this to my desert work truck years ago and it’s helped me through some issues and I’ve jumped lots of other folks.

https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/2-awg-service-style-booster-cables-that-dont-suck/

Steer clear of most old jumper cables as they are CCA ( copper covered aluminum). Use pure copper fine stranded wire. I buy most of my wire from CEAuto in larger sizes, 8awg to 2/0. When I need 4/0 I buy from Polarwire in AK. Their wire is a close second to CE.

It’s really an easy project, you’ll need a real crimper. Easier to buy assembled.

 

[GordoJay]

Folks complain that you can break into an F-150 in five seconds. Why not learn how to do that? If you need a slim jim, tape one to the frame somewhere. There's got to be a video or a thousand out on the net ... youtube probably bans the "How to steal a Ford" videos, but "Emergency entry techniques" might get past the censors. I've got an 801A, so when my locksmith gets his programmer in a couple of weeks, I'm going to have him make me a spare chip key that I can stash somewhere in case I lose my keys. Or in case my battery dies.

 

[Rmax150]

I can't believe this is still an issue. It used to happen on my '12 F-150 all the time. No matter what I did, the physical key would not turn the actuator. I've always had Warn cables with the Anderson connector that's been mentioned so it wasn't ever a huge issue. However, now we have electronic tailgates and if the battery is dead, I can't open the tailgate to open my bed cover. Is there a place on the tailgate to use the physical key to open it? I've never thought about that. I just figured, well its a $73k truck so why would I have to worry about such a mundane detail?

 

[avalanchegrey]

Physical key works.