Things to look for on a test drive - Used 2017 Raptor

[gr8scott_o]

OK, going to test drive a couple of 2017 Raptors this afternoon (reputable local Ford dealer). There are a grand total of 4 available, all under 30k miles.

Aside from the typical items one would look for in any used car purchase, what are the specific problem areas I should be looking out for on Raptor? I'll get to drive two, possibly three of them today, so that should give me good comparison point between them. The fourth one is inbound to the dealer, hasn't arrived yet.

Just as a side note, when your spouse says to you "Hey, when are you going to get that truck you've been wanting? I would rather take that on our summer road trip we are planning than your Jeep" I take that as license to go get one.

 

[FordTechOne]

Be sure they have documented maintenance records with oil changes at least every 7500 with quality oil and filters. Not jiffy lube specials.

 

[smurfslayer]

Yeah, seriously - jump on that opportunity before the spousal unit changes their mind - as they are known to do. Frequently.

17-18 early models had the plastic oil pan. most are fine, but some have developed leaks and the replacement procedure is ... intricate and has led to some famous repeat repairs. It can be done correctly and resolved, but be cognizant of any evidence of leaking fluid from the oil pan, or evidence it was leaking and was cleaned.

if you have a laser thermometer, you want to do a “cold soak” start up. Check the block temps and ensure it’s not already been cold started. Listen for the cam phaser rattle at startup. It sounds like marbles in a can for a few seconds and goes away. It’s a failure to properly park the phaser(?) at shut down. It’s a repair that requires a front tear down.

Listen for a failing IWE during the test drive. Select 2hi, take off so you don’t spin but then lay into it so you’re using heavy throttle through about 4th gear. Do this windows down and listen for the subtle to heavy rattling sound. If you hear it under load, repeat the test in 4a. If it goes away, there’s an IWE component failing or failed likely. This system at the front and facilitates the transfer case mode selection. Usually if caught early, the solenoid is like 7 bucks off amazon, but if not caught early it could be a more involved repair.

if the trucks have a twin panel moon roof, ask directly if the seals have been lubricated. if not, or they don’t know, then they haven’t been and if the moon roof hasn’t been used in a while, the first time the glass is opened rearward, it could break the plastic bits and strand the glass rearward. That would be embarrassing. workaround - open to vent position first, close, then open rearward.
if you hear a POP when the glass goes to the rear, the track has almost certainly broken.

The rest is just normal used car stuff.
Report back with results.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Yeah, seriously - jump on that opportunity before the spousal unit changes their mind - as they are known to do. Frequently.

17-18 early models had the plastic oil pan. most are fine, but some have developed leaks and the replacement procedure is ... intricate and has led to some famous repeat repairs. It can be done correctly and resolved, but be cognizant of any evidence of leaking fluid from the oil pan, or evidence it was leaking and was cleaned.

if you have a laser thermometer, you want to do a “cold soak” start up. Check the block temps and ensure it’s not already been cold started. Listen for the cam phaser rattle at startup. It sounds like marbles in a can for a few seconds and goes away. It’s a failure to properly park the phaser(?) at shut down. It’s a repair that requires a front tear down.

Listen for a failing IWE during the test drive. Select 2hi, take off so you don’t spin but then lay into it so you’re using heavy throttle through about 4th gear. Do this windows down and listen for the subtle to heavy rattling sound. If you hear it under load, repeat the test in 4a. If it goes away, there’s an IWE component failing or failed likely. This system at the front and facilitates the transfer case mode selection. Usually if caught early, the solenoid is like 7 bucks off amazon, but if not caught early it could be a more involved repair.

if the trucks have a twin panel moon roof, ask directly if the seals have been lubricated. if not, or they don’t know, then they haven’t been and if the moon roof hasn’t been used in a while, the first time the glass is opened rearward, it could break the plastic bits and strand the glass rearward. That would be embarrassing. workaround - open to vent position first, close, then open rearward.
if you hear a POP when the glass goes to the rear, the track has almost certainly broken.

The rest is just normal used car stuff.
Report back with results.

Very good list!! All I can add to this is, crawl under the trucks and look for obvious signs of offroad abuse, check the shocks for leaks, etc.

 

[gr8scott_o]

Be sure they have documented maintenance records with oil changes at least every 7500 with quality oil and filters. Not jiffy lube specials.

Great advice, will look for that. Thanks.

Yeah, seriously - jump on that opportunity before the spousal unit changes their mind - as they are known to do. Frequently.

17-18 early models had the plastic oil pan. most are fine, but some have developed leaks and the replacement procedure is ... intricate and has led to some famous repeat repairs. It can be done correctly and resolved, but be cognizant of any evidence of leaking fluid from the oil pan, or evidence it was leaking and was cleaned.

if you have a laser thermometer, you want to do a “cold soak” start up. Check the block temps and ensure it’s not already been cold started. Listen for the cam phaser rattle at startup. It sounds like marbles in a can for a few seconds and goes away. It’s a failure to properly park the phaser(?) at shut down. It’s a repair that requires a front tear down.

Listen for a failing IWE during the test drive. Select 2hi, take off so you don’t spin but then lay into it so you’re using heavy throttle through about 4th gear. Do this windows down and listen for the subtle to heavy rattling sound. If you hear it under load, repeat the test in 4a. If it goes away, there’s an IWE component failing or failed likely. This system at the front and facilitates the transfer case mode selection. Usually if caught early, the solenoid is like 7 bucks off amazon, but if not caught early it could be a more involved repair.

if the trucks have a twin panel moon roof, ask directly if the seals have been lubricated. if not, or they don’t know, then they haven’t been and if the moon roof hasn’t been used in a while, the first time the glass is opened rearward, it could break the plastic bits and strand the glass rearward. That would be embarrassing. workaround - open to vent position first, close, then open rearward.
if you hear a POP when the glass goes to the rear, the track has almost certainly broken.

The rest is just normal used car stuff.
Report back with results.

Excellent, exactly the kind of thing I was looking for, and thanks for the detailed write up. I am currently watching some vids, and saw the plastic oil pan issue come up. Is it a factor of "when, not if it will develop a leak"? Or is it "Some leak and some don't, and the one's that don't aren't likely to". Would I need to pull a skidplate to see it, or would I be able to spot it just by crawling under the truck?

For the cam phasers, is that a "powertrain" warranty item that Ford should address?

I'll look out for the IWE issue. Just watched a couple vids on that too, so I think I know what to look for, and I'll do more research on the whole issue.

I know the one a prefer (Ruby red) has no moonroof, but will check the others. I'm keeping my Jeep, so the lack of moonroof isn't going to be a big disappointment for me. Based on what I have seen so far, it may actually be a positive if it lacks it.

Thanks again for the great advice.

 

[gr8scott_o]

Very good list!! All I can add to this is, crawl under the trucks and look for obvious signs of offroad abuse, check the shocks for leaks, etc.

Thanks! Where would I start to see leaks from? Obviously any fluid on the shocks are going to be bad, but I am going to assume the dealer will powerwash and detail so possibly that might be removed. If I run a finger along an area known to leak, that might give me advance notice of a small leak starting.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

Thanks! Where would I start to see leaks from? Obviously any fluid on the shocks are going to be bad, but I am going to assume the dealer will powerwash and detail so possibly that might be removed. If I run a finger along an area known to leak, that might give me advance notice of a small leak starting.

Shocks will normally leak where the polished shaft goes inside the body of the shock. Look at the inside of the shock from underneath the truck, looking outward, dealers don't detail properly like some of us with OCD. While you are under the truck, look for leaks in the differentials, transfer case, engine, etc. Look for any dents in crossmembers etc, it's rare, but I have found damaged crossmembers on dealers lots on vehicles. Don't listen to any salesperson, they don't inspect the vehicles and would know nothing about the mechanics of it.

 

[smurfslayer]

saw the plastic oil pan issue come up. Is it a factor of "when, not if it will develop a leak"? Or is it "Some leak and some don't, and the one's that don't aren't likely to".

Some never leak. I’d venture to say the overwhelming majority of them. But, if you got one that has the leak this forum is awash with people have had the plastic pan replaced > 1 time. Apparently the instruction set to repair this is too much for some techs and I’d suggest if they didn’t do it right the first time, don’t give them a 2nd chance, take it elsewhere.

For the cam phasers, is that a "powertrain" warranty item that Ford should address?

Powertrain covers the phasers, as does the ESP

I'm keeping my Jeep, so the lack of moonroof isn't going to be a big disappointment for me

Whoa. that might be a bridge too far, keeping a jeep in the same fleet as a Raptor.


a No moonroof Raptor is a good find.

One last thing, if you don’t have a really bright flashlight, like a surefire, etc. they’re really helpful at finding stuff. It doesn’t have to be 600+ lumens, but a decent, quality white beam.

Good luck.

 

[gr8scott_o]

This was very helpful as I went and looked at the three today. Thanks for assistance all!

The Ruby Red was my favorite, 24k, Carfax showed mostly dealer oil changes (some missing so maybe jiffy lube), and seemed by all accounts to be a rock solid truck. Was able to listen to ice cold startup (was able to touch the block after feeling for radiating heat), and what I heard at start up did NOT sound like marbles in a can, so I guess that's good. No signs of any IWE trouble based on smurfslayer's description. What I did notice as I did a rolling hard start from a stop (not tire spinning, just ease off the line, then floor it) was a bit of a hard shift late in the rev range. Happened twice, at two different points in the acceleration curve, out of maybe 6 runs during the test drive.

I didn't actually lay on the ground, but kneeling down on the ground I couldn't see the oil pan at all. Saw the front diff and lots of the other components, but could not see the oil pan itself. Anyway, the truck was out on the lot and had been sitting for a while, I didn't see any signs of an oil leak on the ground but I wonder if that would be caught by a skidplate. If I go back and make an offer, I'll have them put it on a hoist first.

Only issue I saw (which seems pretty minor) was some residue on the steering wheel around the buttons and at the bottom of the wheel in the silver part.. Is this something that is going to clean up, and just a case of too much driving with a Bic Mac too often? Or is this a known wear item?



And here is the money shot of the prospective purchase.

 

[CoronaRaptor]

I have seen a couple post on here of members talking about the paint peeling on the steering wheel (silver/gray) area. It's not very common though. If that is on the truck you're looking at, see if they will lay some carbon fibre over it all