GEN 2 I ordered this to dry my cars.

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ogdobber

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I can't compare it to CR spotless, since I've never used one, but I've rinsed my truck in direct sunlight on 100° days and let it sit and have no water spotting.



I used 2 of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DH4LN/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

One of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KWJLCXS/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

and one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQK2K6/?tag=fordraptorforum-20

However if Calcium and Magnesium are a problem in your area, you could substitute for these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BI4I0G8/?tag=fordraptorforum-20



I made my own mounting bracket ( Culligan's brackets are $15 each) and picked up the brass fittings at Lowes for ~$10.



Thanks i just ordered. Went for the triple filter setup ;)


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CROOKS

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Anyone considered getting a ro/di system and use it to filter water output it to a plastic container, then adding a pressure pump with a hose bib output? I have a 5 stage system that I use a few years ago for me reef tank and while the 4x water rejection is sort of wasteful, the waste water be used to water your plants, etc. More importantly, this was pretty cheap to run, probably about 1000 gallons before replacing the resin, which can be had pretty cheap if you buy it by the pound and just refill yourself. The problem is, the output is very low, so you have to dump into a container and use with a pump.

This is what I do. I used to reef also. I run the pressure pump from the storage tank to a pressure washer.
 

CROOKS

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Cool. What pressure pump are you running? Happy with setup?

I am just using an old external return pump. I think its a panworld. Its 1" in and out with about 1000gph.

I really like it. I can wash a black car in direct sunlight not dry it and have zero water spots. Im only using RO filters and Im on well water which is very hard.

My storage tank is 60 gallon. The most Ive used on the truck is 40 gallons usually it takes closer to 25 gallons. Thats prerinse, then soap the truck, and final rinse.
 

Zhammy3

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RO is all you need for spotless water, DI can be harmful on plastics and rubbers if your tds gets around the 0 area. The water gets so pure so to say it wants to absorb something and can do harm to plastics/rubber causing them to dry out/crack prematurely.
 

pjones

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Thanks, I didn't know that about di. Do you really need RO for anything besides final rinse?
 

Zhammy3

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Thanks, I didn't know that about di. Do you really need RO for anything besides final rinse?



No. But if you don't get your car fully washed in time so to say. The spots could develop before getting to your final rinse. Water is cheap where I live so I just use ro for the full wash. If using city water for your ro system put a granular carbon filter before to remove chlorine. Chlorine will reduce your ro membrane lifespan
 

TheWolf

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RO is all you need for spotless water, DI can be harmful on plastics and rubbers if your tds gets around the 0 area. The water gets so pure so to say it wants to absorb something and can do harm to plastics/rubber causing them to dry out/crack prematurely.

That is not true. DI water has been used for many years for washing cars. I know from using it that it will not remove the wax or sealant on the paint, so it is not going to pull anything out of the trim.

Plastic and rubber trim gets damaged from UV exposure, and oxidation. Which is why you should use a trim conditioner to provide protection from UV and oxidation.

Your statement does not make any sense, since in order for an RO system to prevent water spots, then the TDS would have to be zero, or close to it.

If there are dissolved minerals in the water (TDS>0), then you will get spots. The spotting will not be as severe with lower TDS.

It is also important to realize that there are all kinds of RO filters on the market, for vastly different uses. RO membranes for drinking water will not result in TDS=0, in fact, some will have TDS high enough to cause serious water spotting or etching to the clear coat. So people should be careful just buying generic filters from Amazon or Ebay, without understanding what the filter actually does.

That is why the guys with reefs (and I used to be a reefer too) have RO/DI filters. The RO membrane would remove most the TDS, but not all, then the DI resin would remove the rest of the TDS. This makes both the RO membrane and DI resin last longer. Only downside is the wasted water with the RO.

You really need to get a TDS meter and test your RO water. If you rinse without drying, and get no spotting, then the TDS has to be very low or zero.
 

Zhammy3

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Sorry. Anything under 40-30 TDS is considered spot free. Zero tds deionized water I guess in a better term to put it. Is "hungry". It's so pure it wants to soak something up. Reverse osmosis where I live takes my 360 tds tap water after water softener down to 1-4 tds which is very spot free. You can google tds required for spot free. And almost every website says anything under 40 tds is considered spot free.
Not to argue with you as I have a reef setup also to wash cars and I chased the zero tds myself. And have personally watched rubber dry and crack very prematurely from using 0tds water. As soon as I went to purely ro and kept the tds under 10. Haven't had a problem since
 
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ogdobber

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So this is my final setup. Kept it kinda mobile so i could take it with me if i ever wanted. However, I'm still getting some light spots if i let it dry on its own... They easily come out with a quick detailer spray, so it's not the typical "hard spot". If i give it a quick wipe when wet all is good. I should probably post some pics. Any ideas of what i should do?

6fc75fa7fb06e02a461edeefb59665ed.jpg


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