KaiserM715
Kaiser Söze
Trey, you need to ask them to look for pending codes. These are codes that are temporarily set and have to reoccur a certain number of times before a CEL comes on.
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First try to see if any codes are stored.
Do you have any aftermarket accessories on the engine, tune, cai, exhaust?
If so, return to stock and see if problem persists.
When it stalls out, does the engine die abruptly, like the key was shut off, or does it stumble and die?
Generally this information will tell you what kind of problem you're looking for. Fuel pump/pressure issues will usually stumble then die because even after (lets say) the fuel pump quits, there's still pressure in the lines that continues to supply the engine with fuel for a few last seconds. A stumble also points to a vacuum leak or an issue with one/two of the plugs or coils.
Also when I have an engine performance issue that doesn't set codes, it leads me to believe with a greater possibility that there's an internal issue within the PCM. It's f'ing up and not even realizing it/setting codes
When it dies coming to a stop, (if you can remember), how are you modulating the throttle? Is it slowly or quickly easing your foot off the accelerator pedal?
It only dies at idle/when coming to a stop? Hows it run when cruising, or giving it throttle?
If it only dies at idle, IMO its less likely a wiring/fuel pump/spark plug/coil issue otherwise you would have problems at any/all times. I don't believe the problem is a loose intermittent battery connection like suggested because the voltage regulator inside the alternator is designed to maintain operating voltage regardless of battery voltage. Hypothetically, there's no reason I couldn't start my truck, pull the battery out and drive it around.
The more information you can give me, the more I can try to help.
The axle seal replacement is like SOCO said. There's a snap ring holding the inner snub axle in place. No need to pull the front cover, no c-clip.
The noise. Was anything ever apart under your truck? Transmission, exhaust, etc? I'd look for stuff/rocks caught in the skid plates and rub marks between components/chassis/body. Noises/thumps are tough ones, you can't overlook even small things. It doesn't take much contact between something to amplify a loud noise you'd swear was something major falling apart. A few weeks ago I was chasing a noise on a jeep grand cherokee. Only did it in turns and on accel from a stop. I was certain the problem was in the right front suspension; thats where the noise/vibration sounded/felt like it was coming from.... WRONG, the problem was a slightly, too long, 10mm bolt that had been replaced during a recent (not done by me) transmission repair. The bolt was rubbing just enough against the trans mount when the body was flexed just right.
I started jumping in the bed. It became pretty obvious real quick what was up:
Trey,
do you think it could be your Idle Air Control Valve that needs to be cleaned / replaced?
Hey trey on that loud banging noise have you checked your cab mounts? I have a buddy that had a Loud bang everyone he would hit some decent size bumps and that's what it was a bad rubber cab mount
The cab mounts ate pretty much big rubber bushing there's 2 in the rear and 2 in the front if you look directly under where the cab and bed meet you'll see the rubber bushings check to see if they're falling off,
Apart or off and if they're torn Or damaged then the mounts are banging metal in metal
There wasn't much of a stumble, but when I started it back up it struggled for a second, I gave it some gas and then it took off. When it died the second and third time it just died. When I got it started the last time (and then drove for 20 miles through stops and idle). It didnt want to start, I worked the pedal a little and got it running, then it was fine.
I really think it died all at once. I need to go drive it again (I have been sick all day), and I need to check all the wiring.
I think pretty quick, I am pretty hard on and off throttle.
Runs fine, but I really feel like it may not be shifting into 6th, but it has plenty of power, accelerates fine, etc.
Thanks, I will get it to the store to get codes read, and try to provide more information.
On the TSB, is that valve near the firewall on the top of the engine?
How much oil do you think a leaking axle seal could sling out? I was in 4x4 for about 50 miles, but it seems like alot of oil on and around the PS wheel well. There is oil on the wheel hub itself too, I noticed it the other day too. Those aren't oil filled are they?
Seeing how it seems to run fine (besides possible 6th gear shift) until idle, I'd look closer at vacuum leaks or problems with the throttle body or throttle position sensor. The Idle Air Control or IAC that was mentioned is no longer used on the drive by wire systems. The Throttle body assembly has a stepper motor that regulates the throttle plate to maintain idle. The IAC valves did have problems back in the day though.
The canister purge valve does sit on the back of the intake by the fire wall. Should have two hoses and an electrical connector going to it.
Those axle seals can sling a lot of oil around when they go. They can make a mess.
The hub is a sealed unit with grease inside. I don't think there's enough grease inside one to really sling it all over, at least I've never seen one do that.