Hardwiring a radar detector

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RUFdriver

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I never cared for the excessive false alarms with the V1, some of it can be programmed out but it still false alarms far more than a ******. Having been the victim of a smash and grab, I would never leave a radar detector mounted in plain view. I have a K40 professionally installed in my Porsche, very slick stealthy install with two little lights on the dash. The K40 doesn't have the range as some because it sits low on the bumper, but still gives plenty of warning.
 

pjones

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I live in a very populated area with lots of active Waze users. In the last 2-3 months, there was only a single time when a cop was hiding and it wasn't on Waze.
 

WhatExit?

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Thanks for the very clear instructions. I followed this today and hardwired my ****** 9500ix. I didn't even drill a hole like you did, there was more than enough clearance for the wire to sneak through.

Took all of 10 minutes including taking pictures.

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Unfortunately your pictures/links don't work.

When using the mirror tap is the power switched? I'd much rather connect it that way (automatically) rather than using an Upfitter Switch.

Any pics of the actual tap locations?
 

xxaarraa

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Unfortunately your pictures/links don't work.

When using the mirror tap is the power switched? I'd much rather connect it that way (automatically) rather than using an Upfitter Switch.

Any pics of the actual tap locations?

Here you go. Yes, power from mirror tap is switched.

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WhatExit?

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Blendmount link for 12.5% discount: Click here for 12.5% discount on Blendmount

---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:19 AM ----------

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Details:

I updated my V1, used the Blendmount and MirrorTap for power, it's the 10" long version and used the .040" taps.

For those with the power mirror and front camera. Here is how to tap into the harness. Use the white connector facing the drivers side to tap for radar detector. Black wire for ground. Solid yellow wire for power. It is the second yellow wire from the black one. See pics.

Also, the plastic cap doesn't use any clips. It has a male plunger type holder on each side of the plastic piece that covers the lower part of the mirror. Pull firmly straight down on both sides and it will pop so, out. The top piece is held in place by the bottom piece. You just squeeze on both sides of the top piece near the mirror stud and it will pull off. Make sure to put the lower piece back on first when reinstalling. Then just pop the top piece back on. I did drill a small hole for the mirrortap to run through so the covers to fit together properly.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for your post. Any reason I couldn't/shouldn't use a wire tap connector instead of spending $40 for the MirrorTap wire?

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wheelman55

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Blendmount discount code for 12.5% discount: friend125

---------- Post added at 07:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:19 AM ----------



Thanks for your post. Any reason I couldn't/shouldn't use a wire tap connector instead of spending $40 for the MirrorTap wire?

1568x1__23694.1294935538.380.500.jpg

The connector that you show is guaranteed to fail at some point. Spend the $40 and do it the right way.
 

Big Johnson

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On my gen 1 i just tapped into the trailer brake module for power supply. Mostly because it was right beside where I mounted the mute button. Will probably do the same on my gen 2. Scotch clips are the worst. Solder and shrink tube are the only way in my opinion.
 

WhatExit?

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The connector that you show is guaranteed to fail at some point. Spend the $40 and do it the right way.

Interesting that you say that. I don't see a wire tap as problematic as jamming an ultra thin pin into a Ford factory socket.

These wire taps have been around forever and while I know jamming a pin in a socket of a factory connector works I also know there have been problems getting the pins in there.

There would seem to be potential for issues with the pins affecting the socket and/or the factory wires in there.

I'll consider your statement and the fact that others have used the wiretap pins. Thanks
 

WhatExit?

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I never cared for the excessive false alarms with the V1, some of it can be programmed out but it still false alarms far more than a ******. Having been the victim of a smash and grab, I would never leave a radar detector mounted in plain view. I have a K40 professionally installed in my Porsche, very slick stealthy install with two little lights on the dash. The K40 doesn't have the range as some because it sits low on the bumper, but still gives plenty of warning.


The latest generation of the Valentine One (V1) does not false like the previous gens. Valentine offers a nice upgrade to existing units - check their website.
 
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