Bora 1” spacers on oem 37 beadlock

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pnwobrigade

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Well, can't hurt to add a 3rd engineer to the party eh?

Came across this thread for similar interests and having run MANY spacers on various rigs for many years, I have to say BoostCreep is spot on here. The 34mm is irrelevant given a properly functioning hubcentric spacer will effectively translate whatever moment occurred to the wheel just the same as if it were 0 offset. I hate to say it, but that isn't rocket science here it's simple physics 101. In fact, I'd be more concerned then with suspension dynamics of adding nearly 3in of track width and how that accounts for increased scrub radius and steering feedback. But that doesn't matter when your trying to get that perfect shot for the ol' Insta. I fell into the whole 0 offset crowd because 99% of the wheels I like and would buy only come in 0 offset, let's just say there will be a set for sale likely soon because of the above reasons.

Another comment here is load rating of the wheel and the general metallurgy of said wheel. I won't name brands but having worked closely with OEM sectors for many years I'd bet the OEM 37PP have an engineered failure limit FAR above many aftermarket wheels hence their not so great figures of mass. That is to say, for all the mall crawlers and curb hoppers out there I'd personally feel better with properly milled 6061 spacers along with OEM wheels over some of these so called "Flow Formed" overseas cast wheels with clear inferior quality. Once you spend some time doing FA studies just because it's cast, forged, or made from unicorn farts there's significant differences in metal quality. Oddly, I find the same people that argue "OMG spacers are bad" because YouTube told me are the same ones buying front page Basher wheels from the local Les Schwab.
 

hyrepower

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Well, can't hurt to add a 3rd engineer to the party eh?

Came across this thread for similar interests and having run MANY spacers on various rigs for many years, I have to say BoostCreep is spot on here. The 34mm is irrelevant given a properly functioning hubcentric spacer will effectively translate whatever moment occurred to the wheel just the same as if it were 0 offset. I hate to say it, but that isn't rocket science here it's simple physics 101. In fact, I'd be more concerned then with suspension dynamics of adding nearly 3in of track width and how that accounts for increased scrub radius and steering feedback. But that doesn't matter when your trying to get that perfect shot for the ol' Insta. I fell into the whole 0 offset crowd because 99% of the wheels I like and would buy only come in 0 offset, let's just say there will be a set for sale likely soon because of the above reasons.

Another comment here is load rating of the wheel and the general metallurgy of said wheel. I won't name brands but having worked closely with OEM sectors for many years I'd bet the OEM 37PP have an engineered failure limit FAR above many aftermarket wheels hence their not so great figures of mass. That is to say, for all the mall crawlers and curb hoppers out there I'd personally feel better with properly milled 6061 spacers along with OEM wheels over some of these so called "Flow Formed" overseas cast wheels with clear inferior quality. Once you spend some time doing FA studies just because it's cast, forged, or made from unicorn farts there's significant differences in metal quality. Oddly, I find the same people that argue "OMG spacers are bad" because YouTube told me are the same ones buying front page Basher wheels from the local Les Schwab.
Oh so true.
 

New recaros

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Well, can't hurt to add a 3rd engineer to the party eh?

Came across this thread for similar interests and having run MANY spacers on various rigs for many years, I have to say BoostCreep is spot on here. The 34mm is irrelevant given a properly functioning hubcentric spacer will effectively translate whatever moment occurred to the wheel just the same as if it were 0 offset. I hate to say it, but that isn't rocket science here it's simple physics 101. In fact, I'd be more concerned then with suspension dynamics of adding nearly 3in of track width and how that accounts for increased scrub radius and steering feedback. But that doesn't matter when your trying to get that perfect shot for the ol' Insta. I fell into the whole 0 offset crowd because 99% of the wheels I like and would buy only come in 0 offset, let's just say there will be a set for sale likely soon because of the above reasons.

Another comment here is load rating of the wheel and the general metallurgy of said wheel. I won't name brands but having worked closely with OEM sectors for many years I'd bet the OEM 37PP have an engineered failure limit FAR above many aftermarket wheels hence their not so great figures of mass. That is to say, for all the mall crawlers and curb hoppers out there I'd personally feel better with properly milled 6061 spacers along with OEM wheels over some of these so called "Flow Formed" overseas cast wheels with clear inferior quality. Once you spend some time doing FA studies just because it's cast, forged, or made from unicorn farts there's significant differences in metal quality. Oddly, I find the same people that argue "OMG spacers are bad" because YouTube told me are the same ones buying front page Basher wheels from the local Les Schwab.
So you admit to a 3” wider track. But you don’t understand you are 1.5 inches further from the fulcrum on each side?
 

pnwobrigade

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So you admit to a 3” wider track. But you don’t understand you are 1.5 inches further from the fulcrum on each side?
Exactly the same as a 0 offset wheel too. Hope you didn’t study engineering too long…Point is you clearly don’t get is a spacer or offset of wheel is one and the same if done correctly.
 

hyrepower

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Exactly the same as a 0 offset wheel too. Hope you didn’t study engineering too long…Point is you clearly don’t get is a spacer or offset of wheel is one and the same if done correctly.
With all the cholo looking raptors I see with 20x10 wheels and -20mm offsets, I’d say we that run 0mm offsets are good to go.

That and most all the folks that really use their trucks for it’s intended purpose, and didn’t buy it to compensate for their lack of masculine genital fortitude by making sure it blings in a parking lot, seem to run 0mm offset wheels. I have never seen a wheel hub fail due to someone romping their truck offroad because of a 0mm offset wheel.
 

New recaros

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Even though you are 34 mm further from the bearings? Are you delivering the moment of force in relation to the bearing in a different place?
It would seem a 0 offset wheel with a 34 mm spacer would be the same as a wheel with a +34 offset. But it’s not when determining bearing load. The radial and axial forces change just a bit on the bearings.
Moment of force = force x distance.
Think what you want.
 

BoostCreep

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Even though you are 34 mm further from the bearings? Are you delivering the moment of force in relation to the bearing in a different place?
It would seem a 0 offset wheel with a 34 mm spacer would be the same as a wheel with a +34 offset. But it’s not when determining bearing load. The radial and axial forces change just a bit on the bearings.
Moment of force = force x distance.
Think what you want.
Your analogy is taking into account the length of the lever but not where force is applied on the lever. If I have a 1’ wrench, vs a 3’ wrench that I apply force to 1’ from the bolt, it’s the same force.
 
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