Bora 1” spacers on oem 37 beadlock

[BoostCreep]

The factory wheel or a 0 offset wheel deliver the forces in the same location. The spacers deliver it 34 mm further away.

That’s simply not at all accurate and not how this works. If you were dealing with a poorly designed, thick 1.5” spacer that’s not hub centric, then yes, it’ll put a lot more load on the wheel studs, but nobody does that, at least not properly. When you’re dealing with a hub centric spacer the force is transferred from the hub to the spacer face, the load is not on the studs at all.

The only thing to be concerned with is the moment of inertia of the wheel/tire assembly at the hub and the resulting stress on the suspension components. The moment is dictated by the location of the hub face, and where the tire exerts pressure on the ground. The hub face doesn’t change location, but the tire does. Changing the location of the tire with a lower offset wheel vs spacer makes absolutely no difference in terms of the moment at the hub or stress on the suspension components.

Question, are the factory hub’s perfectly flat? What is the tolerance? Is the spacer perfectly flat? What are their tolerance? So let’s say tolerance is .001 on both and you bolt the two high spots together, sure the bolts will close the now .002 gap, but is it a sound mechanical joint?
To many places for a slight error to have bad outcomes.

I am comfortable with the manufacturing tolerances of the OE Ford hub, rotor assembly, and wheels, and I am even more comfortable with the tolerances the Bora spacers are milled at. It’s just not an issue.

 

[New recaros]

That’s simply not at all accurate and not how this works. If you were dealing with a poorly designed, thick 1.5” spacer that’s not hub centric, then yes, it’ll put a lot more load on the wheel studs, but nobody does that, at least not properly. When you’re dealing with a hub centric spacer the force is transferred from the hub to the spacer face, the load is not on the studs at all.

The only thing to be concerned with is the moment of inertia of the wheel/tire assembly at the hub and the resulting stress on the suspension components. The moment is dictated by the location of the hub face, and where the tire exerts pressure on the ground. The hub face doesn’t change location, but the tire does. Changing the location of the tire with a lower offset wheel vs spacer makes absolutely no difference in terms of the moment at the hub or stress on the suspension components.




I am comfortable with the manufacturing tolerances of the OE Ford hub, rotor assembly, and wheels, and I am even more comfortable with the tolerances the Bora spacers are milled at. It’s just not an issue.

The hub face does change, it’s now the spacer outside face. Geez, guy. Draw it on paper!
Hey it’s your truck, Go get some, I’ll buy the right wheels. To each their own. I have tried to end this subject on this thread.

 

[BoostCreep]

The hub face does change, it’s now the spacer outside face. Geez, guy. Draw it on paper!
Hey it’s your truck, Go get some, I’ll buy the right wheels. To each their own. I have tried to end this subject on this thread.

I give up. I’ve drawn it out.

So as long as I don’t use spacers, and I get the “right wheels,” they don’t add any leverage or stress to the components, even if they’re -100mm offset? Wrong.

 

[New recaros]

I never said that. I said your statement that the hub face does not change is wrong. I totally think any negative offset will increase suspension load on all components.
My point was the extra connection was not good as many things could go wrong.
I also, as above with the new hub face 34 mm further out it slightly changes the leverage.
One last try,
Say you have 1000 lb per sq/inch hit on the tire. Starbucks curb at 20. Lol
With spacer, the forces are transmitted 34 mm further from the shock, spring and all components.
Now, a wheel with the 0 offset that bolts to the factory hub take the same hit. The same forces are transmitted 34 mm closer than with the spacer.
Is there a difference? I say yes, does it matter, probably not.
But my main point has always been the additional joint with the spacer.
Anyway, good debate have a great evening.

 

[hyrepower]

I believe my BORA spacers are 1.25" on my Gen 2 and I did not have to trim the studs. Give them a call and they will tell you the smallest spacer that will work without trimming. That is what I did years ago.

I will, thanks.

Obviously this guy has been using Boras for “years” and he hasn’t had any issues.

 

[BoostCreep]

I never said that. I said your statement that the hub face does not change is wrong. I totally think any negative offset will increase suspension load on all components.
My point was the extra connection was not good as many things could go wrong.
I also, as above with the new hub face 34 mm further out it slightly changes the leverage.
One last try,
Say you have 1000 lb per sq/inch hit on the tire. Starbucks curb at 20. Lol
With spacer, the forces are transmitted 34 mm further from the shock, spring and all components.
Now, a wheel with the 0 offset that bolts to the factory hub take the same hit. The same forces are transmitted 34 mm closer than with the spacer.
Is there a difference? I say yes, does it matter, probably not.
But my main point has always been the additional joint with the spacer.
Anyway, good debate have a great evening.

Imagine, if you will, that instead of the spacer being bolted to the hub, and then the wheel bolted to the spacer, that the spacer was fused to the wheel, and that assembly just bolted to the hub. Then, what is the difference between the stock wheel and spacer vs a 0 offset wheel?

Nothing. There is absolutely no difference in the way it functions or the way force is applied to it.

 

[New recaros]

Imagine, if you will, that instead of the spacer being bolted to the hub, and then the wheel bolted to the spacer, that the spacer was fused to the wheel, and that assembly just bolted to the hub. Then, what is the difference between the stock wheel and spacer vs a 0 offset wheel?

Nothing. There is absolutely no difference in the way it functions or the way force is applied to it.

Sure there is, 34 mm
You surely understand leverage. You can’t loosen a nut with a 3/8 ratchet, you go get the longer 1/2 drive. You apply the same force with your hand to both, but more torque is applied using the longer ratchet to the nut, right?
So, the same principle is happening here. Except it is 34 mm.
What you are missing is the wheel is applying the force at its flange face. Not the outside of the wheel. So if you have a+34 or 0 offset wheel, they deliver force to the hub via the wheel flange face. The spacer increases the distance from the bearings which increases the force delivered to the wheel bearings. Hence, the spacer has created more leverage and creates more applied force, just like the longer ratchet to nut.
So, think of leverage and where it is applied.
So, think of this. Forget the wheel for a moment.
Say you bolted a1inch thick plate to the hub. You then applied say 1000# force, the wheel bearing are going to see this and to a lessor degree the rest of the suspension.
So not, bolt your spacer to the hub. Then bolt the 1 inch plate to it. Apply the same force to the plate as you did without the spacer. The load on the bearings will increase as you leverage increased. Hope you agree.
Now remove the plate and use the wheel. The wheel is delivering the force in the same place as the 1inch plate. It’s all in where the force is applied to the system.
If you were applying the force to the outside of the wheel, you would be correct, but that is not what happens.
As I said already, I would buy the right wheels. As someone stated, very meticulous installation is key to providing a secure and safe spacers. But every time I would hear that impact at Discount tire I would wonder if the spacer integrity was still intact.

 

[BoostCreep]

Sure there is, 34 mm
You surely understand leverage. You can’t loosen a nut with a 3/8 ratchet, you go get the longer 1/2 drive. You apply the same force with your hand to both, but more torque is applied using the longer ratchet to the nut, right?
So, the same principle is happening here. Except it is 34 mm.
What you are missing is the wheel is applying the force at its flange face. Not the outside of the wheel. So if you have a+34 or 0 offset wheel, they deliver force to the hub via the wheel flange face. The spacer increases the distance from the bearings which increases the force delivered to the wheel bearings. Hence, the spacer has created more leverage and creates more applied force, just like the longer ratchet to nut.
So, think of leverage and where it is applied.
So, think of this. Forget the wheel for a moment.
Say you bolted a1inch thick plate to the hub. You then applied say 1000# force, the wheel bearing are going to see this and to a lessor degree the rest of the suspension.
So not, bolt your spacer to the hub. Then bolt the 1 inch plate to it. Apply the same force to the plate as you did without the spacer. The load on the bearings will increase as you leverage increased. Hope you agree.
Now remove the plate and use the wheel. The wheel is delivering the force in the same place as the 1inch plate. It’s all in where the force is applied to the system.
If you were applying the force to the outside of the wheel, you would be correct, but that is not what happens.
As I said already, I would buy the right wheels. As someone stated, very meticulous installation is key to providing a secure and safe spacers. But every time I would hear that impact at Discount tire I would wonder if the spacer integrity was still intact.

I can’t explain this any more, it’s not getting across and your understanding is incorrect. Your example is flawed because we’re talking about two different wheels that by themselves create a different leverage point at the hub, just like a spacer does, they are no different.

Go ask an engineer. You don’t need to explain leverage to me.

 

[New recaros]

I am an engineer

 

[New recaros]

A old one. Lol