First Detail - Adamized the Raptor

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Cobra2Raptor

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For matte vinyl - no clay, no polish, no wax, no machine, and no standard sealants (like our Liquid Paint Sealant). All these will cause damage and/or staining.

Yes, the best product to protect the matte vinyl is the H2O Guard & Gloss. It is applied by hand with a plush microfiber towel (damp), and then the residue is removed by hand with another plush microfiber towel (dry).

Check out this post for a step-by-step:

H2O Guard & Gloss on a Raptor

Also, for the matte vinyl, I would spray the H2O Guard & Gloss on the damp towel and then wipe it on the vinyl, rather than spraying the product directly on the vinyl. This should help avoid any streaking that takes more time to even out.

Applying this product by hand will not lift any of the vinyl edges. I have hand applied and removed all kinds of products from this gloss vinyl hood graphic, which has lots of edges, and they are fine.

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-Dan

I've had no problems on my bed side graphics using Adam's Liquid Paint sealer or H20G&G. When claying however be careful as the blue clay can get wedged around the perimeter of the decals. Easy enough to remove but still a PIA and a time waster.
 
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TheWolf

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I've had no problems on my bed side graphics using Adam's Liquid Paint sealer or H20G&G. When claying however be careful as the blue clay can get wedged around the perimeter of the decals. Easy enough to remove but still a PIA and a time waster.

You don't end up with residue from the Liquid Paint Sealant on the edges of the vinyl?

I applied it to my gloss vinyl, and had quite a bit of residue build-up on the edges of the decal.
 

Cobra2Raptor

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You don't end up with residue from the Liquid Paint Sealant on the edges of the vinyl?

I applied it to my gloss vinyl, and had quite a bit of residue build-up on the edges of the decal.

I've applied LPS on the Raptor twice now and while I do go a bit lighter on the bed side graphics I haven't had an issue. Also FWIW; I've only applied it by hand on the truck.

I have had a great deal of build up claying as close as I can get to the vinyl. Now that is a pain to remove....In one of the Adam's kits I got over the spring came with these little detail brush Q-tip type things that do a fair job removing build up on places like the graphics and side quarter panel SVT vents.
 

The Macf

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GENTLEMAN, CLEAN YOUR ENGINES!


A good engine bay cleaning was a little overdue.

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Tools for the task: Fender Brush, Trim & Lug Nut Brush, Waterless Wash, All Purpose Cleaner.

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Venus sprayer with the foaming tip, with 2oz of Rinseless Wash and 2oz of Car Wash Shampoo and a liter of water.

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Started with a rinse with the hose to get the dust and loose dirt off.

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Soaked the whole engine bay with Waterless Wash to loosen up the dirt. I did not soak everything with All Purpose Cleaner to begin with, as any overspray onto the exterior painted areas, glass or trim would strip off the sealant. Since this engine was mostly dusty, not much oil or mud stains, then the Waterless Wash should get most of it.

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For the scrub-down, sprayed the Rinseless Wash / Car Wash Shampoo mixture with the Venus sprayer with the foaming tip, and soaked the whole bay. The addition of the Car Wash Shampoo adds suds, so it is easier to keep track of what areas have been scrubbed.

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Scrubbed all the big areas with the Fender Brush, then went back with the Trim Brush to get into the nooks and crannies.

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Gave it a quick rinse to remove the suds and loose dirt, and then used the All Purpose Cleaner on the areas that were still grimy, being careful not to get it on any exterior surfaces, to avoid stripping the sealant.

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A good rinse with the hose, making sure to get all the pooled areas washed out good.
Blasted the remaining buggy-bits out of the radiator with the pressure washer.

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A gentle blow-dry with the Master Blaster, mostly to remove standing water on the flat areas and the pooled water. I did not attempt to completely dry the engine bay with the forced air, as I was worried about forcing water into areas that it would not typically get under normal conditions.

Since I planned on dressing the engine bay in the morning, I left the hood open in the garage and let it dry out.

ALL DRESSED UP, AND NO PLACE TO GO!


Products for dressing: In & Out Spray, Super VRT, Block Foam Applicator, Edgeless Utility Towel.

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Started by spraying everything with the In & Out Spray, being careful to just lightly coat the areas, with no runs. It works best to use quick sprays while keeping the can moving, rather than long, heavy sprays that cause drips.

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Some magic Super VRT on the foam block, then dressed all the areas I could get to, including the rubber hoses.

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Followed up with a wipe-down using the towel, to even everything out.

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To take care of the overspray on the paint and trim, I used the yummy Pumpkin Spice Detail Spray and a Borderless Gray Towel.

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Finally, the BOOM!

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So how much are you charging for full details now?
 
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TheWolf

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Brothers from another mother?

Maybe...you gonna be near Eastern Washington anytime soon?

It would be unfair to other detailers if you started detailing cars, you would have the market cornered!

Well, I would be too expensive. From what I have read from guys detailing on the side or even running their own detailing businesses, most people just want a clean vehicle, and don't want to spend more than $150-200 for a full interior and exterior, and not many want to pay extra for polishing.
 

The Macf

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Maybe...you gonna be near Eastern Washington anytime soon?



Well, I would be too expensive. From what I have read from guys detailing on the side or even running their own detailing businesses, most people just want a clean vehicle, and don't want to spend more than $150-200 for a full interior and exterior, and not many want to pay extra for polishing.

My Grandpa lives in Spokane. Probably going to stop and see him when I visit my folks in Seattle late jan/early feb
 
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