Sound deadening question
- Thread starter Otis857
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TheJoker
FRF Addict
Duct tape and bubble wrap?
Close. Foil faced butyl rubber sheets used for roofing (and most likely made in the same factory as the other brands). As well as Frost King Duct insulation, which is even thicker than other sound deadening.
---------- Post added at 01:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:01 PM ----------
$20 per roll.
Ruger
FRF Addict
Thanks, Noah. That's some serious money. I do not have a problem of that magnitude. Heck, I can just turn off my hearing aids! (insert crazy grin right about here)
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Otis857
Full Access Member
Thanks Noah, Any suggestions for the back panel vents? I read on another forum that someone blocked them off and it helped a lot, but Im not going to do that. Any thoughts on using leftover polyfill over them? Obviously not as good as blocking them, but it may help somewhat and still allow airflow.
I just finished the floor with Second skin CLD and mass loaded vinyl. The MLV is available online from Home depot but a bit of a pain in the ass to install. Starting on the back panel now.
Also, FWIW, I bought some Noico brand CLD (80mil) on Amazon and it seems pretty good. Not quite as thick foil as Second Skin, but a much better price.
I just finished the floor with Second skin CLD and mass loaded vinyl. The MLV is available online from Home depot but a bit of a pain in the ass to install. Starting on the back panel now.
Also, FWIW, I bought some Noico brand CLD (80mil) on Amazon and it seems pretty good. Not quite as thick foil as Second Skin, but a much better price.
not much you can do with the rear vents. if you block them, you run the risk of blowing out your windshield when you shut the doors. i left mine as they were. since the entire cab is covered in sound deadening, that little bit doesnt bother me. you could use some open cell foam if you want. that will still allow air to pass and help with the sound. my amplifiers are mounted back there and are on top of the vents. air still passes, but the board i have the amps mounted to block any noise that comes through
no1
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Otis857
Full Access Member
Well I finished the floor & back panel. Ran out of time and didn't do the roof before my weekend trip. I did cover the vents with polyfill which still allows air flow. It may or may not help with the noise, but it can't hurt.
I took the truck to the mountains last night and noticed a sizable difference. Now I can hear road noise mainly through the doors, where before I couldn't isolate where it was coming from. Now when I do the doors, it should make a huge difference.
I took the truck to the mountains last night and noticed a sizable difference. Now I can hear road noise mainly through the doors, where before I couldn't isolate where it was coming from. Now when I do the doors, it should make a huge difference.
trayack
Full Access Member
FYI the roof makes a HUGE difference when done. Take the time and do it, don't skimp.
Driving in my truck compared to by buddy's who has nothing done is literally night and day. The roof is the larges resonating panel in the cab, don't short change all your efforts by not doing it.
- Travis
Driving in my truck compared to by buddy's who has nothing done is literally night and day. The roof is the larges resonating panel in the cab, don't short change all your efforts by not doing it.
- Travis
If you go through this guys website he gives a number of tips - Sound Deadener Showdown | Sound Deadener Showdown
Materials
Ford F-150 Raptor Crew Cab 4 door Pickup 2009- | Sound Deadener Showdown
I too had an exhaust drone that was driving me nuts and if Noah was closer or another local guy I found wasn't booked so far out I would have paid to have it done.
As for the back vents here's an example of a pocket this guy made - Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4 door Pickup 2002-2009 - Back Wall | Sound Deadener Showdown - I basically did the same thing only did a few more stand offs and made mine a bit bigger as I felt his example blocked too much air IMO. I am in the commercial HVAC business so I deal with pressurization issues all to often. My doors definitely now are harder to close, but not bad. So far all I've done is the roof, rear wall and the rear doors, but it's made a noticeable difference. Next will be the rear floor and the front doors as that's where I believe the next most noise is coming from.
In my 12' Lariat (Ecoboost soo much quieter anyway) I just used a bunch of rolled cotton, the quilt lining stuff and mainly covered my rear section and the barometric vents but set it up so there could still be plenty of airflow. It's amazing how noisy those barometric dampers are...never noticed it on the Ecoboost until I had a canopy installed and then I was convinced a door/window wasn't closed all the way. Excess noise after canopy/shell add - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
On the 6.2L though just due to the resonance of the exhaust I doubt the cotton trick alone will help much...the CLD tiles definitely deaden sound on the metal.
For overall sound deadening I'd recommend if you can get it to Noah just have him do it as it is a PITA. I recommend Noah since I've seen him help so many others here and I've used his videos to help me figure out how to pull my truck apart for this project and for my NAV-TV front camera bypass install, did at least by the NAV-TV thru him. ;o)
Materials
Ford F-150 Raptor Crew Cab 4 door Pickup 2009- | Sound Deadener Showdown
I too had an exhaust drone that was driving me nuts and if Noah was closer or another local guy I found wasn't booked so far out I would have paid to have it done.
As for the back vents here's an example of a pocket this guy made - Dodge Ram 2500 Quad Cab 4 door Pickup 2002-2009 - Back Wall | Sound Deadener Showdown - I basically did the same thing only did a few more stand offs and made mine a bit bigger as I felt his example blocked too much air IMO. I am in the commercial HVAC business so I deal with pressurization issues all to often. My doors definitely now are harder to close, but not bad. So far all I've done is the roof, rear wall and the rear doors, but it's made a noticeable difference. Next will be the rear floor and the front doors as that's where I believe the next most noise is coming from.
In my 12' Lariat (Ecoboost soo much quieter anyway) I just used a bunch of rolled cotton, the quilt lining stuff and mainly covered my rear section and the barometric vents but set it up so there could still be plenty of airflow. It's amazing how noisy those barometric dampers are...never noticed it on the Ecoboost until I had a canopy installed and then I was convinced a door/window wasn't closed all the way. Excess noise after canopy/shell add - Ford F150 Forum - Community of Ford Truck Fans
On the 6.2L though just due to the resonance of the exhaust I doubt the cotton trick alone will help much...the CLD tiles definitely deaden sound on the metal.
For overall sound deadening I'd recommend if you can get it to Noah just have him do it as it is a PITA. I recommend Noah since I've seen him help so many others here and I've used his videos to help me figure out how to pull my truck apart for this project and for my NAV-TV front camera bypass install, did at least by the NAV-TV thru him. ;o)
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Otis857
Full Access Member
Thanks Gwpfan, I did read Don's site (Sound Deadener Showdown) and took a lot of tips from it. While I didnt go for the CLD tiles, I did cover as much as practical with Regular Cld and did use his methods for doing a noise barrier with MLV.
I just bought a set of PHD 6.5's for the front doors and will deaden them as close to what Don suggested as I can. With the improvements made on the back panel and floor, Im convinced that going the extra mile on the doors and roof will really pay off.
To your point, a while back Noah stopped by on his way to Texas and showed me how to pull the rear seat back on my Scab. I did get the pleasure of listening to his system too. If I can come close to his truck's sound, I'll be thrilled even more to drive it. The man knows his shit!!. But northern Cal is quite a stretch for me, and there is a real satisfaction to DIYing a high end system too.
I just bought a set of PHD 6.5's for the front doors and will deaden them as close to what Don suggested as I can. With the improvements made on the back panel and floor, Im convinced that going the extra mile on the doors and roof will really pay off.
To your point, a while back Noah stopped by on his way to Texas and showed me how to pull the rear seat back on my Scab. I did get the pleasure of listening to his system too. If I can come close to his truck's sound, I'll be thrilled even more to drive it. The man knows his shit!!. But northern Cal is quite a stretch for me, and there is a real satisfaction to DIYing a high end system too.
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