RPG lower link
- Thread starter raptor730
- Start date
Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.
SeasickLI
Full Access Member
Looks awesome, did you just do the lower link?
raptor730
Full Access Member
Yes I couldn't justify the upper because you can't really see it and I don't offroad
SeasickLI
Full Access Member
Just seeing the side profile with these makes me want to do it also
jrbonniwell
Member
Man that looks great, I happen to have the same color truck with the same wheels and tires…. Seeing this pic is going to make me spend some $$ lol
raptor730
Full Access Member
Im getting a couple of question from folks on the install.
You will need torque wrench capable up to 200 pounds. 15/16 deep socket, 15/16 regular socket or wrench
To remove factory link you need 1 deep socket 15/16. You only need 1 because the other side has hook on the nut to prevent it from turning. Do it on level surface and you can remove nuts and use rubber mallet and the factory bolt should come right out. Do 1 at a time! Take factory out, replace with RPG, then do other side.
When installing RPG you need to put the rear (by wheel) side in first, put bolt in with nut and hand tighten. Then try to put in other side, in my case I didnt use a jack so the hole didnt line up. I used the decline in my driveway and the wheel moved enough to fit bolt right in. If you need to move the wheel the other way to fit just drive up on a brick or something. You can always use a jack too.
Then tighten bolts,factory torque specs are 173, RPG said you can torque up to 200. I did 175-180
Also mine came from RPG with front bushing and rear that are different and were not installed with zero instruction on which ones go on rear or front. Here is picture that shows the bushings that should go next to the logo (front)
It took me 2.5 hours but if i had these instructions its 45 minute job.
You will need torque wrench capable up to 200 pounds. 15/16 deep socket, 15/16 regular socket or wrench
To remove factory link you need 1 deep socket 15/16. You only need 1 because the other side has hook on the nut to prevent it from turning. Do it on level surface and you can remove nuts and use rubber mallet and the factory bolt should come right out. Do 1 at a time! Take factory out, replace with RPG, then do other side.
When installing RPG you need to put the rear (by wheel) side in first, put bolt in with nut and hand tighten. Then try to put in other side, in my case I didnt use a jack so the hole didnt line up. I used the decline in my driveway and the wheel moved enough to fit bolt right in. If you need to move the wheel the other way to fit just drive up on a brick or something. You can always use a jack too.
Then tighten bolts,factory torque specs are 173, RPG said you can torque up to 200. I did 175-180
Also mine came from RPG with front bushing and rear that are different and were not installed with zero instruction on which ones go on rear or front. Here is picture that shows the bushings that should go next to the logo (front)
It took me 2.5 hours but if i had these instructions its 45 minute job.
SeasickLI
Full Access Member
Can always order the billet bars and swap them in!
Very true but then I got these that I'd have to try and sell and I'm too deep with custom powder and Cerakote on em to make it make sense financially. But then again, there's no sense financially with these trucks or the Mustang!
SeasickLI
Full Access Member
Similar threads
