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Questions & Concerns about Used 2017 Raptor Purchase

Discussion in 'Prospective Raptor Owners' started by AUTiger438, Jan 28, 2019.

  1. AUTiger438

    AUTiger438 Member

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    Thanks everyone in advance for the advice and answers:

    Looking to purchase a used 2017 Raptor with 802A Package. It DOES Not have a a twin-panel sunroof (I don't want one), also it DOES NOT have the heated rear seats (No big deal) and it DOES NOT have technology package (Lane changing feature in wife's car is annoying, but adaptive cruise would be nice and I have never had rain sensitive wipers, but not a deal breaker). Currently drive a 2010 F 150 Lariat with 329,000 miles on 5.4 V8, must have been built on a Monday. It has been FORD TOUGH. I do environmental work and I am off road on properties on a regular basis. I am not new to off-roading, I previously did a great deal of trail guiding for Jeep Jamboree and Camp Jeep in early 2000's. So, I am familiar with the Raptor's setup...I am concerned about the following:

    1. Fuel Type - Regular or Premium - before we get into "well spending that much for a truck what are a few extra dimes for fuel...the question relates to performance and engine longevity? Towing performance and mpg? Thoughts?

    2. Lacking the above noted options, any concern with resale value? Again, I buy them to drive them and put a lot of miles on them for work.

    3. Towing - i know all the facts about 5,000 lbs on the hitch and 8,000 lbs with weight distributing setups. How about regular towing? Trailer is a heavily modified 6 by 10 Car-Mate enclosed trailer with all my stuff for work that weighs in at 3,500 lbs.

    4. Regular maintenance on the 3.5 EcoBoost? I am a stickler for oil changes and tire rotations. Is there anything else to be watchful of?

    5. Lastly, what are must have mods that everyone has done? A winch would be handy. Will be transferring Back Rack, Weatherguard tool box and Whelen Light Bar to it. What are some useful mods?
     
  2. WhatExit?

    WhatExit? FRF Addict

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    All your questions are answered on this forum - just look around and do some digging and reading.

    1. Either works. Depends on which you want to run.
    2. You're not concerned with resale if you're going to put 329,000 miles on it like you did on your 2010 F150 Lariat.
    3. Your trailer is within the tow rating from Ford
    4. Just follow the factory recommendations but you know that already
    5. You need a winch? It's been done and detailed on this forum. As has everything else.

    Good luck with your search and purchase. Post up when you get it
     
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  3. AUTiger438

    AUTiger438 Member

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    Thank you for the response. WhatExit? Still kicking that one around and another one.
     
  4. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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    +1 to everything @WhatExit? said.

    The manual says 87 is ok, 93 is recommended for best performance or towing. It is great to be able to use 87 if it’s all that’s available.

    Raptors hold their resale value pretty well, you might not get a few dozen or hundred bucks that a loaded 802a might but, it won’t be that much.

    I have to defer on towing.

    The 3.5TT requires semi-synthetic or full synthetic oil. 1st vehicle I’ve had that made synthetic a requirement, but worth it for the added protection. I’ve had my oil analyzed by Blackstone labs at each change, because a 10,000 mile change interval seems long to me. Analysis has indicated it’s legit.

    There used to be a running post “post all your 2017 Raptor problems here”. There was a lot of good pre-purchase info in there. Get up under the truck and look for leaks. Especially the oil pan. The Raptor uses the same plastic oil pan as the other 3.5’s and it has a higher than usual rate of leakage. The repair is intricate, but not hard. Apparently requires a little dexterity that some Ford techs don’t possess, so look for leaks, around the oil pan and understand that this could be a recurring issue if not repaired properly. I don’t think more than 3% of trucks have this, but it was enough to have Ford issue a bulletin and design change in Spring of ’18- they went to a metal pan. Funny thing... Haven’t heard of a 2018 owner with a metal oil pan complain of leaking. GO FIGURE.

    The latest PCM/TCM programming is way better than the early through mid year 2017’s. if you buy from a dealer, make the most current PCM/TCM code a condition of your purchase, it will save you fighting with service getting them to do it later. Don’t just accept “it is most current” - make them hook it to the machine and download the most current.

    check the door latch function. There’s been a recall and a subsequent service bulletin on freezing door handles or worst case the door opens but will not latch shut due to freezing. Make sure that recall and service bulletin are completed.

    Listen for persistent rattle; loud, marbles in a can rattle. if you hear it, run, do not walk to the nearest exit. There is always a waste gate rattle at start up and immediately after, and some other weird noises that usually stop in a few seconds. If you hear the marbles in a can at start up, it could be bad.

    Mods: 2017 sony was the 2nd worst sounding stereo I’ve had, right behind my old Lightning. Fortunately, you can add some really good bass inexpensively, add in dynamat and better speakers for about $600. Add amps and a sound processor for probably 300 more? maybe 400. Obviously you can go higher.

    Lights - lots great supporting vendors here can help out with lighting needs.

    Good luck!
     
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  5. AUTiger438

    AUTiger438 Member

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    smurfslayer - thanks for the heads up on the "marble" noise and oil pan. PCM/TCM programming was beyond me, so that was very helpful. I would have not known about that at all. I am still straddling the fence on purchase. I have low balled at $52K. They started at $59,999 and came down to $57,999 on website and then called me and offered it at $54,499. I am taking mu truck to dealer tomorrow for oil change and tire rotation and will crawl under it to look at oil pan. I am thinking I may go with their price, but have them throw in an extended warranty, bed divider and bed extender. Or tell them that I will take it at $54,499 out the door...tax, tag & title. Thoughts?
     
  6. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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    sounds like you’re adept at negotiating. I think $54k is probably realistic. stick to your guns on checking it out though.
     
  7. kid icarus

    kid icarus Full Access Member

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    No problem running 87 octane.

    Resale is only important for your scenario if buy this and have problems or don't like it. In that case, the lack of options will take a special buyer.

    Towing - get deavers and a weight distribution hitch.

    Regular maintenance - check oil every 1000 miles (many low oil reports here), spark plugs and changes every 30k miles (engine is prone to misfire past that point), and regular inspections (look at the plastic oil pan to know when it cracks and needs replaced; listen for the cold start rattle which is when your cam phasers have failed)

    Must have mod is getting an extended warranty that covers the mileage you think you will put on it. You need to be covered.
     
  8. smurfslayer

    smurfslayer Be vewwy, vewwy quiet. We’re hunting sasquatch77

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    One thing you will definitely want to do is ignore the notorious troll sasquatch77, banned here 5 times already and currently kid icarus.
     
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