Rmz450rider70
Member
Back story: I have a 2013 Screw with 70,000 miles. Around 60,000 miles I had my first occurrence of "crank but no start", but after the first failed attempt to start the truck all I did was turn the ignition all the way off and try it a second time, it fired right up.
Two months ago (approx 1500 miles) I had my second occurrence of "crank but wont start." Coincidentally it happened right after having fat fingers and hitting the remote start button one too many times to where it did half a crank and stopped. I was walking up to the truck when this happened so instead of trying remote start again I just got in and turned the ignition. I tried it twice and it just cranked but wouldn't start. First, I checked my tuner for any logged codes, then I pulled out my phone and began to search good ol' google. Unfortunately before I could find the numerous threads about the infamous fuse 27 I tried starting the truck again and it fired right up. At that point I assumed that when I mashed the remote start button 3 times instead of 2 that I had triggered some sort of fail safe and I just had to let it "time out", thus why it fired right up for me about 5 minutes later.
Current situation:This is my third occurrence of "crank but wont start". It didnt take long to figure out that Fuse 27 was blown due to the black $h** stain on top of the fuse. I replaced the fuse and the truck still wouldn't start. I started researching and that's when I found all the forums about fuse 27, so I ordered the relocation kit. I crossed my fingers that the reason simply replacing fuse didn't temporarily fix the issue as it has for every other person in every forum I read so far was because by the time my fuse 27 finally completely let go it took the fuse terminals to the grave with it. I installed relocation kit with out any issue, but the truck still wouldn't start.
So I started trying to troubleshoot further:
-I switched relays 6 and 8 and nothing changed.
-I have removed and visually inspected every fuse in the engine compartment fuse block.
-I have tried using both keys.
-I had my girlfriend turn the ignition on and off and I DONT hear the fuel pump priming.
-I also listened and placed my finger on the relay as the ignition was being cycled and I CAN'T feel the relay click on when the ignition is cycled on, but I can FEEL it click as the ignition is cycled off...
-I have confirmed no less than 9 times that I cut and soldered into the correct wire while installing the kit
-I checked for voltage at the fuse terminal, then plugged the fuse in and checked voltage at the relay, all voltages are the same.
-Here is where I'm getting stumped, I switched the DVOM to resistance, and with the positive lead going into the fuse block disconnected, and Fuse 70 and Relay 8 removed, I and placed one lead of the multi-meter on the new blade connector I installed during the fuse relocation kit (power coming out of the fuse) and the other lead on the connector for power coming into the relay and I got a reading of 1.4ohms. I know there shouldn't be that much resistance in a wire that short. Also, I am very confident in my ability to simply solder 2 wires together, but I have seen crazier things happen.
(Note: When installing the fuse relocation kit I cut the blue w/ red stripe wire about 1" below when it came out of fuse 27, so most of that wire is still in the system)
Time for y'alls feedback: Do I have an issues somewhere in the rest of that blue/red wire between fuse 27 and relay 8, or am I getting a faulty reading out of my multi-meter. If the wire is fried, OR if I'm getting a faulty reading out of my meter then why do I get the same voltage reading at the fuse as I do on the other side of the wire at the relay (disclaimer: I haven't checked amperage). The only reason I haven't just gone ahead and replaced this wire entirely in order to eliminate it from the equation is because I don't know where I can get a new terminal connector for the relay side of the wire. Should I continue to focus my attention around the fuse block? Or should I go ahead and just throw a FPDM and/or a fuel pump at (I hate throwing parts at stuff) it since I don't have schematics to continue troubleshooting the rest of the wiring?
Any and all help/suggestions is much appreciated!
Two months ago (approx 1500 miles) I had my second occurrence of "crank but wont start." Coincidentally it happened right after having fat fingers and hitting the remote start button one too many times to where it did half a crank and stopped. I was walking up to the truck when this happened so instead of trying remote start again I just got in and turned the ignition. I tried it twice and it just cranked but wouldn't start. First, I checked my tuner for any logged codes, then I pulled out my phone and began to search good ol' google. Unfortunately before I could find the numerous threads about the infamous fuse 27 I tried starting the truck again and it fired right up. At that point I assumed that when I mashed the remote start button 3 times instead of 2 that I had triggered some sort of fail safe and I just had to let it "time out", thus why it fired right up for me about 5 minutes later.
Current situation:This is my third occurrence of "crank but wont start". It didnt take long to figure out that Fuse 27 was blown due to the black $h** stain on top of the fuse. I replaced the fuse and the truck still wouldn't start. I started researching and that's when I found all the forums about fuse 27, so I ordered the relocation kit. I crossed my fingers that the reason simply replacing fuse didn't temporarily fix the issue as it has for every other person in every forum I read so far was because by the time my fuse 27 finally completely let go it took the fuse terminals to the grave with it. I installed relocation kit with out any issue, but the truck still wouldn't start.
So I started trying to troubleshoot further:
-I switched relays 6 and 8 and nothing changed.
-I have removed and visually inspected every fuse in the engine compartment fuse block.
-I have tried using both keys.
-I had my girlfriend turn the ignition on and off and I DONT hear the fuel pump priming.
-I also listened and placed my finger on the relay as the ignition was being cycled and I CAN'T feel the relay click on when the ignition is cycled on, but I can FEEL it click as the ignition is cycled off...
-I have confirmed no less than 9 times that I cut and soldered into the correct wire while installing the kit
-I checked for voltage at the fuse terminal, then plugged the fuse in and checked voltage at the relay, all voltages are the same.
-Here is where I'm getting stumped, I switched the DVOM to resistance, and with the positive lead going into the fuse block disconnected, and Fuse 70 and Relay 8 removed, I and placed one lead of the multi-meter on the new blade connector I installed during the fuse relocation kit (power coming out of the fuse) and the other lead on the connector for power coming into the relay and I got a reading of 1.4ohms. I know there shouldn't be that much resistance in a wire that short. Also, I am very confident in my ability to simply solder 2 wires together, but I have seen crazier things happen.
(Note: When installing the fuse relocation kit I cut the blue w/ red stripe wire about 1" below when it came out of fuse 27, so most of that wire is still in the system)
Time for y'alls feedback: Do I have an issues somewhere in the rest of that blue/red wire between fuse 27 and relay 8, or am I getting a faulty reading out of my multi-meter. If the wire is fried, OR if I'm getting a faulty reading out of my meter then why do I get the same voltage reading at the fuse as I do on the other side of the wire at the relay (disclaimer: I haven't checked amperage). The only reason I haven't just gone ahead and replaced this wire entirely in order to eliminate it from the equation is because I don't know where I can get a new terminal connector for the relay side of the wire. Should I continue to focus my attention around the fuse block? Or should I go ahead and just throw a FPDM and/or a fuel pump at (I hate throwing parts at stuff) it since I don't have schematics to continue troubleshooting the rest of the wiring?
Any and all help/suggestions is much appreciated!