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Gen1: 18C804 v 19A067

Discussion in 'Ford Raptor Audio/Video/Electronics Forum [GEN 1]' started by Sofaking_Bored, Aug 29, 2020.

  1. Sofaking_Bored

    Sofaking_Bored Member

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    Like it says. I have a 2014 Screw and For the subwoofer is it the 18C804 or 19A067? I have the green plug under the passenger seat but need the woofer. It seems 067 doesn’t have an amp on it. Does anyone know the difference?

    thanks.
     
  2. The Car Stereo Company

    The Car Stereo Company aka nosbusa Supporting Vendor

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    i dont know part numbers, but you need the one WITHOUT the amp. 2010 model year raptors are the only year truck that had the seperate sub amp on the side of the enclosure. from 2011 and up the amp under the center console powered the entire system.
     
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  3. MEIRONMAN207

    MEIRONMAN207 Full Access Member

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    You may have looked already, but I was searching around for connectors/plugs for the sub (btw I also have a ‘14 SCREW and the original sub) and a JL Audio etc., on eBay I saw several take offs selling on there. I think other trim models also use the same unit? Just a thought?

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  4. Sofaking_Bored

    Sofaking_Bored Member

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    I am assuming the jl audio is aftermarket? I have the Sony system and nothing like that amp under my Front passenger seat.

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  5. The Car Stereo Company

    The Car Stereo Company aka nosbusa Supporting Vendor

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    you are a couple years too late to the party. we tossed so many of these back then. when we build new boxes for people they didnt want to keep the old sub. we never saved any unfortunately
     
  6. MEIRONMAN207

    MEIRONMAN207 Full Access Member

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    Yes. Audio upgrade. But, I didn’t do it, the dealer owner did, he owned the truck it was their marketing/demo and show room bitch. I am the second owner, hahaha, I call it my ANOS...almost new old stock.

    So, I wanted to get a connector (male) like yours on the pic. Mine was missing/removed. They had replaced the stock unit with an aftermarket sub and I found it to be just too much for me and my riders during a test run. My wife, “...it’s making my butt vibrate...” take that for what you will...anyway I wanted to connected it somewhat stock like to the original sub which they left in place and I didn’t know it was not connected and suspect the detailer swapped out the aftermarket sub and left the wires (monster brand) lead coming from the JLA underneath the rubber mat. Anyway, this reply is getting long already, but you may be wondering why I didn’t go to claim the theft, I’m in ME and I found the truck in FL and stayed parked in FL for three months after I picked it up and then I was in CA for a month and wasn’t nearly six months later that I noticed, etc.

    So I had a couple of subs to test and like I said it’s just too much. So I connected to the stock unit directly and bypassed the stock plug (female) the monster leads. However, I want to connect it as stock and make it easier, not bc of need.

    in my pic attached from a previous post you can see the monster wire going to the stock sub

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  7. MEIRONMAN207

    MEIRONMAN207 Full Access Member

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    upload_2020-8-30_12-20-54.jpeg

    If any OEM male plugs are laying around I would love to get one since I cannot seem to find anywhere.. Also, to use the OEM if I manage to find one, I believe there are four leads and the JLA is a two channel to leads coming from it? (not a audiofile) which wires should I start to test for to jump/connect so I can plug to the stock connector on the stock sub?
     
  8. The Car Stereo Company

    The Car Stereo Company aka nosbusa Supporting Vendor

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    the oem sub is a dual voice coil so there is 1 pair of wires going to each voicecoil. aftermarket amps sometimes only have one set of terminals for wiring. the final impedence is the important number to pay attention to, not the number of terminals it has
     

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